Freelander1 2005 TD4 losing clutch fluid

Hello there from mainalnd Europe.

I am currently (again) thinking about sending my freelander to breakers, because the constant clutch problems are driving me nuts. So long story short -
Our freelander has had clutch issues since we bought it (with 80k km on clock). The biting point gradually went lower, so it needed to be bled every 3-4 months. Since we got quite annoyed with it, after many years, when Freelander had 280km on clock, we changed the clutch slave cylinder (the one inside the gearbox). And problem was solved.
After 3 years, with 330 km on clock, the master cylinder was leaking a bit and providing this squeaky noise when pressed. I knew that replacing it was only a question of time, but kept on driving, until one day in a middle of city it got very hard to get into any gear. I parked my car for the night, but next morning clutch pedal was non existent. It was impossible to get into a gear. Opened the slave oil reservoir, and it was empty. Added some fluid, bled the clutch and was able to get back to countryside.
Immediately I bought a brand new LUK master cylinder, fitted it (PITA for LHD freelanders), and indeed it seemed like problem solved, but within the first kilometers the clutch was gone again. Thought - maybe some air that needs to be pushed out. Did the bleeding many times, almost a whole liter of fluid. Although it improved, after 150km, the clutch is gone again, and the reservoir is completely empty. After filling it, it only lasted for a few km, and empty again.

Im quite confident that there is a leak from slave cylinder in the gearbox, but since I have to remove the gearbox in order to change that - are there any other common faults, that could be causing this? Thank you in advance!

Having had this, if there is no visible leak then the slave seals have gone again.

It is a crude slave with a moving centre portion and the seals appear to not last long.
Is there any sign of fluid from bellhousing to engine joint?
A quick test for the master is to free off the quick release connector and see if the pedal is firm. Obvs only works when you have fluid and it is bled.

Unfortunately it's the concentric slave that has failed.
Did you replace the DMF while the box was out? A worn DMF can cause the concentric to fail sooner than it should.

Nodge and Andy, thanks for your replies, so my theory about slave has been approved. I will now have to figure out if it is rational to put another 300+ EUR in, since freelander 2 is already on its way to my farm. But taking into account all the money I have already poured in the car, selling it would be a pitty. Tough life decisions.

And no, I did not replace the flywheel, since both the clutch itself and the flyweel seemed to be in a pretty good condition.

The difference between the FL1 and 2 is substantial. The FL2 being lots more modern in design and much nicer to drive, however it still has problems, and is generally more expensive to to repair when it goes wrong.
I love mine, but it's far from an easy or cheap vehicle to fix, which the opposite to FL1.

Thank you guys for advice.

I have decided that the old freelander will still be handy on a farm, especially for some muddy roads etc.; So i have bitten the bullet and I will pay for the slave cylinder replacement. My local ''guy'' is asking 150 EUR for the job, but as for parts, i have a great deal to buy LUK clutch kit+slave for 180 EUR, so i am leaning in that direction. But my question is regarding the dual mass flywheel. That is one expensive bit of part, the cheapest one being 380 EUR, so i would prefer not to change it, but then again - if the transmission has been removed, and there is an obvious problem, it would also be idiotic from my side to ignore it. So the question - is there a way in which i can visually tell wether the DMF is dead and needs replacement?

Check the DMF for play, if it's excessive, then there are solid flywheel conversions available, which are generally more reliable.

I think the slave cylinder failed, because the old master cylinder was not changed, and all the particles of the old master cylinder contaminated the fluid.
I had the case in my Freelander, the clutch was changed, the master cylinder gone one year later, and the slave follow one year latter (genuine one, taken in warranty).

If the fly wheel has play, the mechanic will tell you!

180 euro for a LUK clutch kit + slave? Is the slave cylinder from LUK.

I don't think flywheel conversion is a good solution. This will be more reliable yes, but I don't think it will be more pleasable to drive.