Freelander inner wheel arches

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
S

Sarachik

Member
Posts
10
Location
Teesside
Hi all
I hope I'm in the right section, just new to the site. My query if anyone can advise is about an inner skin under the wheel arches which seems to have peeled back and moisture has got in with some ensuing light corrosion. I've been quoted £150 to have all 4 arches jet washed, treated greased and new 'skins'. Does this sound right and any worries for corrosion getting worse? I'm not mechanically minded so apologies if my description isn't the best. The photo if I can upload it is the rear offside arch. 20211007_153140.jpg
 
I've been Googling and I think there's maybe 2 components. The plastic liners you mentioned and a wheel arch protector strip which I think is the part that has 'lifted away' .
 
Sarachik said:
I've been Googling and I think there's maybe 2 components. The plastic liners you mentioned and a wheel arch protector strip which I think is the part that has 'lifted away' .
Click to expand...


Maybe that's only fitting to some models? Mine doesn't have it, and it seems to be a water trap too. Mine has almost Zero rust, definitely nothing like that, and mine is a 2009 MY FL2.
 
I've done a bit more reading and some owners say they've just taken them off because it can be a trap as you mention. But it's being taken care of. The situation is that this is a car I'm in the process of buying and after I pointed it out the dealer says he'll get it sorted at his cost. Thanks for replying though
 
Hello Nodge
You answered my post a while back and now I have another issue. I wondered if you might have any ideas or advice. I've spent about 20 mins trying to figure out how to do a new post and it's got me beat. So here's what's going on

I seem to have a problem with limp mode or something like it. When I pull away the rev needle goes to the right but the car is hardly moving and crawls for a few yards before picking up but it can then fail to pull properly in higher gears, it's intermittent and will do it in manual or automatic. A couple of people have had diagnostics connected but there are no fault codes. Two professionals have suggested the following.

Mechanic A, Land Rover specialist. "It could be the acctuator or the turbo. If the turbo needs replacing it would be £2000. Or I know someone who can get an acctuator for £650 and I could 'match it' to the turbo." He said he'd put it on the ramps and do a detailed diagnostic to find out what's happening.

Mechanic B, turbo specialist. Said it could be around £1300 to sort it but he wasn't clear if that was for a new turbo, a turbo & acctuator or refurbished. Again he said he'd do diagnostics.

Both said if it was the acctuator and could be repaired then it would cost less.

I have no idea if any of the above is reasonable or feasible. Help!
 
Sarachik said:
Hello Nodge
You answered my post a while back and now I have another issue. I wondered if you might have any ideas or advice. I've spent about 20 mins trying to figure out how to do a new post and it's got me beat. So here's what's going on

I seem to have a problem with limp mode or something like it. When I pull away the rev needle goes to the right but the car is hardly moving and crawls for a few yards before picking up but it can then fail to pull properly in higher gears, it's intermittent and will do it in manual or automatic. A couple of people have had diagnostics connected but there are no fault codes. Two professionals have suggested the following.

Mechanic A, Land Rover specialist. "It could be the acctuator or the turbo. If the turbo needs replacing it would be £2000. Or I know someone who can get an acctuator for £650 and I could 'match it' to the turbo." He said he'd put it on the ramps and do a detailed diagnostic to find out what's happening.

Mechanic B, turbo specialist. Said it could be around £1300 to sort it but he wasn't clear if that was for a new turbo, a turbo & acctuator or refurbished. Again he said he'd do diagnostics.

Both said if it was the acctuator and could be repaired then it would cost less.

I have no idea if any of the above is reasonable or feasible. Help!
Click to expand...

Your description of the fault is making it hard to understand the issue.
However if it's got a lack of power, then before condemning the turbo, I'd be making sure all the boost pipes are leak free. Boost pipe leaks are much more common than turbo issues.
 
Nodge68 said:
Your description of the fault is making it hard to understand the issue.
However if it's got a lack of power, then before condemning the turbo, I'd be making sure all the boost pipes are leak free. Boost pipe leaks are much more common than turbo issues.
Click to expand...
Hello
Sorry if my post wasn't clear, I'm not very mechanically minded but thanks for the suggestion re boost pipes/leaks, I'll look into that. Someone told me he'd seen a post somewhere that it could possibly be linked to the fuel filter. Anyway, I think I'll just have to bite the bullet, take it in somewhere and hope I don't get taken for a ride, even a limp one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

MiddleAgedDirtBag
Plastic inner wheel arches on ‘85 90?
Replies
1
Views
432
Flossie
Flossie
Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
3K
Goc3k
Goc3k
Jasonmichael
In a bit of a quandry........???
Replies
19
Views
1K
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
Alunee
Disco 2 Rusty front inner wheel arches - how urgent?
Replies
2
Views
3K
Alunee
Alunee
P
rear wheel arch inner body seat supports!
Replies
11
Views
973
pants007
P
Back
Top