Freelander central locking motor measurements?

Hi all,
So I have 2 locks front drivers and rear passenger that are locking but not unlocking when i use the remote fob, I've seen a video from comeinhandynow where he replaced the little electric motors inside the lock to fix the same problem .
However when i go to search for them there are dozens of different types on Aliexpress for instance of all shapes , lengths etc so I was wondering if anyone on here would happen to have one lying around that they could take the measurements of including the length of the shaft, width of screw etc ?

I admire your idea! I tried once to do this as I like to repair things without replacement but it is really fiddly and time consuming, drilling rivets and clips etc.

The guy in the video you mention only uses the brush part of the new motor and retains the worm shaft as original.

Good luck!!!

As Andy says, it's a really fiddly job. (Had I not taken several photos of how it came apart, I would have struggled to have get the whole mechanism back together). But it is possible with a bit of patience. From what I understand, (and this was the experience with mine too), it's the motor brushes that wear and clog up everything around the motor enclosure, making it give up the ghost. I took mine to bits, including the actual motors, cleaned it all, and put the same brushes back in, as it looked like they still had plenty of life in them. It was all the dust that was causing the problem. Touch wood, the cleaning job has worked.

I seem to recall there were some good sites for the first BMW MINIs, describing the process in detail as they used the same exact mechanisms. I found it impossible not to break the clips. But their integrity doesn't seem to make much odds.

It wasn't a job I'd planned on doing, but the secondhand mechanism I bought from eBay, was faulty too. And I wasn't prepared to spend over £100 for a complete new one.

Good luck.

Hi

How did you solve the issue ? I having the same issue !

Is the same mechanisms for all freelander ?

It turned out to be not so fiddly as regards the actual electric motor repair but the dismantling and reassembling of the mechanism is what defeated me on the front door lock .
I reassembled the lock and installed it twice and it did not work right so i salvaged the electric motors and shelved the rest.
I must get round to ordering a digital calipers and posting exact measurements of the motors but in any case the two electric motors in the lock are not the same size as each other .

The fix i did which worked for the back door was just to replace the bushings with the bushings off a brand new standard motor just like in the excellent video from comeinhandynow so I wouldn.t have to fiddle around with some of the cutting and micro-welding I stumbled across while searching for info about these locks.

I bought a second hand lock from a 2006 freelander for the front from traynors here in the north of ireland for 40 quid and installed it.
Locking system is all working fine now.

Yes, knowing the pain to fit the motors I only fit new ones to save redoing the horrid job! I did try to repair one but the time input was not worthwhile in my view. Rather be refurbishing a VCU!

Hi

When removing the door latch, did you have to remove the outdoor handle to manage to get it out ?
I have the workshop manual it only say to disconnect the door latch from all its connections once unbolted.
Now I am experienced by doing door stuff I replaced 2 window regulator and one door checker.

I think I will go for a second hand lock, but I think I will probably need to redo the job in 2 or 3 years.
The original part is too expenssive, I don't know if cheaper alternative parts are that reliable and easy to fit than the original one ?

https://www.instructables.com/Repair-Mini-Cooper-Electric-Door-Lock-Actuator-L/

Same mechanism and actuators. Towards the end of the description, shows how to clean the motors. I did it on mine successfully.

no need to take the handle off

Hi

I bought a second hand one for 40 bucks from eBay.
It takes me 2 hours to change the door lock.
I make the big mistake of removing the cable from the release handle, take to much time to refit that cable.
The cable need to be released from the door lock !

Now all work like it should.

Alteredtech said:

Hi

When removing the door latch, did you have to remove the outdoor handle to manage to get it out ?
I have the workshop manual it only say to disconnect the door latch from all its connections once unbolted.
Now I am experienced by doing door stuff I replaced 2 window regulator and one door checker.

I think I will go for a second hand lock, but I think I will probably need to redo the job in 2 or 3 years.
The original part is too expenssive, I don't know if cheaper alternative parts are that reliable and easy to fit than the original one ?

Click to expand...

I did have to remove the handle also to release the key slot . Some good tips in this video

ponythegringo said:

I did have to remove the handle also to release the key slot . Some good tips in this video

Click to expand...

HI

I already see the video, you should absolutely not disconnect the cable from the interior handle,
on later models there is a small piece of plastic that you must pus that make it almost impossible to reconnect.

Normally you don't have to remove the handle even for driver door, you only need to disconnect the key slot by gently pushing it.
I have the haynes manuel and the workshop manual is more, following the steps of the manual avoid you a lot of pain.
The steps are on the image bellow.



The cable need to be removed from here :

do you know the physical size of the motor an worm screw they look the same as the blender motors