Freelander 1 stop light switch

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Old diver

Well-Known Member
Posts
432
Location
Dunfermline, Fife
can anyone give any advice on fitting new switch? I've followed handbook instructions but the new switch will just not fit. Been trying for hours now.
 
which switch is it .. old type or the updated version ?
have had mine out a couple of times ..
and what got in the way was the small proximity sensor / switch thing
just to the left of the brake switch ..
with that sensor thing out of the way ..
be easy to insert and twist lock the new switch into position

first time i did it .. took me ages 'n screwed my back up
until i noticed the sensor was getting in the way

updated switch comes with a harness ..

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a google search :
https://www.google.co.uk/search?sou...&oq=freelander+how+to+replace+bra&gs_l=psy-ab.
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pics:
old type switch ..
oldbrak.jpg

new type ..
newbrake.jpg

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You should see that the new switch's plunger is slightly further out than your old one - you have to press the brake pedal down to enable you to clip in the new switch - then when you release the pedal it pushes in the plunger to the correct length - it's impossible to click in the new switch without pushing the pedal down by hand - how do I know this? - like you I struggled till I realised this
 
@dfossil
that's a point i hesitated to add .. ( thanx for adding it :) .. )
'cause on asking at the LR place where i bought mine .. they said ..
the new type switch doesn't need that procedure ..
( those blue tabs lock the plunger into place according to one of the search results )
but .. when i'd fitted the new type switch without pressing the pedal ..
i noticed the brake lights came on at the mere touch of the pedal
i.e. before the brakes were having any effect ..

so i reffited it ( new type ) while pressing the pedal down ..
after that the brake lights came on as they should ..

just noted that down here .. as that new type switch went in fine
without having to press the pedal down ..

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It was the old type that I took out and replaced it with the same. Didn't have to push the pedal down. I filed the new one down to exact size of the old one and put a drop of fine oil on the two lugs. I used a small adjustable to push the switch in and turn. All working alright now.
 

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It was the old type that I took out and replaced it with the same. Didn't have to push the pedal down. I filed the new one down to exact size of the old one and put a drop of fine oil on the two lugs. I used a small adjustable to push the switch in and turn. All working alright now.
Take the old one apart and you will see how the plunger ratchets in on the first pedal release - you emulated that I guess by filing it to length but that is not neccessary.
Also when you take the old one apart you will probably see the eroded contact bridge that gives the problem - it's always nice to see cause and effect.
 
Take the old one apart and you will see how the plunger ratchets in on the first pedal release - you emulated that I guess by filing it to length but that is not neccessary.
Also when you take the old one apart you will probably see the eroded contact bridge that gives the problem - it's always nice to see cause and effect.
No, I didn't shorten the plunger. I just tidied up the plastic casting a bit.
 
I had this problem with the old type switch. I could not get it to clip in. I could not get under to see what was happening so I took the drivers seat out. Once it was out of the way It clipped in first time.
 
Said it before but it's worth saying it again - it's almost impossible to push in and rotate to locate the switch UNLESS you push down the brake pedal with your other hand - it's too difficult to force the pedal back with the switch. When you just do that it's so easy...........literally seconds

When you let it up the switch's plunger ratchets in to the desired position.
 
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