Footwell replacement

I've just bought a replacement driver's footwell. Looking at it, it looks like it might be another bitten off more than I can chew project!

Do I really need to have the bulkhead off to do this properly? Can it be done properly without removing the steering box, pedals, etc, etc or is it something that is best patched up with plate until I get round to a proper rebuild?

Cheers

Dom

I've not done one myself, but I'll be tempted to say if a job is worth doing do it properly and just the once, good luck I'm sure you'll do a good job.

Your gonna have to take off atleast the pedal box gear
Could probally get away with leaving the steering in but it would be Easyer without
Take off the wing and door for better access
Where are you maybe somebody could help if your unsure but if your gonna do it do it right

Thanks lads,

I had a look tonight and I really need the motor back on the road soon, later in the year I'm planning a full strip down - at which point I'll be doing a lot of work on the bulkhead.

Tonight I cut the worst of the rot out of the floor and stitched in a plate. I have to say it is probably the scruffiest bit of welding I've ever seen - my first go at stitching like this. However, it should be tough enough to last the next few months.

My mate saw the crappy welding and so I bet him he coulding kick it in...he lost so that will suit me for now.

Dom

That it works is right at the top of the list....


That it looks pretty is somewhere........



















way............













down..............
















here

naah once you get a feel for doing things like welding and fabricating the pretty part just comes from nowhere as if by magic

I think I could maybe have prepped this better. But I need to crack on and get this back on the road, even if the repairs only last a few months that should be enough...I've spotted quite a few other problems but, hey this is supposed to be a working vehicle!

As you say Johnny practice should get me there...got to buy a new welder though as I'm losing the use of this one next week. Its a nice big Clarke 160TM turbo, they're about £280 from Clarke. I'm not sure it isn't overkill for what I need though....any advice?

dominicbeesley said:

I think I could maybe have prepped this better. But I need to crack on and get this back on the road, even if the repairs only last a few months that should be enough...I've spotted quite a few other problems but, hey this is supposed to be a working vehicle!

As you say Johnny practice should get me there...got to buy a new welder though as I'm losing the use of this one next week. Its a nice big Clarke 160TM turbo, they're about £280 from Clarke. I'm not sure it isn't overkill for what I need though....any advice?

Click to expand...

anything thats fan cooled and 120 amps or above anything weaker than that youll have a better chance of using a bic lighter

also get the best you can afford second hand if nesecary and make sure its not a fekkin gasless one as all you can really tune on those fekkers are the lecci and wire speed
the real neat welds are achieved by fine tuning the gas

My mate saw the crappy welding and so I bet him he coulding kick it in...he lost so that will suit me for now.

Click to expand...

My mate said to me last year, "that doesn't look like MOTable welding" I replied if he'd like to weld near the Range Rovers petrol tank, he was more than welcome.

Well the MOT guys didn't spot the hole or the cracks, if they kick off about the pidgeon **** welding they're welcome to take a hammer to it!

I have to admit I've been trying to jam bits of board and other shields in to protect the fuel lines and tank while I've been grinding holes but found a nice little fire going in the grass on top of the petrol tank last night!:smokin: Thats the beauty of mig welding you have a mini fire extinguisher in your hand!

D

dominicbeesley said:

Thats the beauty of mig welding you have a mini fire extinguisher in your hand!
D

Click to expand...

Having cut out the rotten bits, the replacement footwells are now in position ready to be fixed. The video link below on how I've cut out the old footwells and installed the new so far. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=osKJRYSN464

Question is do I weld (mig) or use something like sikaflex to seal the gaps and pop rivets every inch or so? As the bulkhead and the footwells were removed in-situ, welding poses heat issues for wiring, dash, tubes and pipes other plasticy bits in the engine bay and cab. I'm leaning towards using rivets and sealant.

As a newbie to the joys of refurbing Land Rovers, this forum is a great resource. Cheers!:5bcheers2:

Been there ...STILL doing it .....

Cut MORE rust and **** out of the bulkhead .....I thought it looked bad on the surface BUT as ever the deeper in you get ....the worse it gets





The inner strengthener behind the top cure of the pillar was like lace AND after removing a suspicious lump of filler there was a big hole in the usual spot on the bulkhead corner
No pictures sadly as I was busy avoiding snow and hail showers Grrrrrrr






All tacked in .....just need to finish the welding properly and seam seal/schutz it all on this side ....then start on the really manky drivers side





Then cracked on with a spot of grinderificating and welding on the drivers side

Where do I start .... jwdrp







Most of this is down to the P/O using cardboard and silicone to "repair" rust ....FFS repair it properly,WHEN it's an easy job









Then ran out of Argoshield .....

I reckon the bottom bolt AND a door hinge bolt should be enough whstle



Best advice I can give is measure measure measure before cutting .....

Learn how the bulkhead is put together and how to "Unpick" it rather than just chop it to bits ......

I've only replaced the rusty side in the Drivers side as I'm short of time to take the pedals out etc ....BUT in an ideal world I'd have stripped it off the vehicle and made a jig .

Thanks Iceman,
Impressive work and thank you for sharing. :5bcheers2:
I've seen these parts listed online however it's really helpful to see how you've done it; unpick rather than chop and hack, is good advice.

Landy #2 has a bulkhead similar to yours however that is next project. I may pass it on to the next generation depending on how long it takes me to finish Landy #1.

Grantstew8 said:

Thanks Iceman,
Impressive work and thank you for sharing. :5bcheers2:
I've seen these parts listed online however it's really helpful to see how you've done it; unpick rather than chop and hack, is good advice.

Landy #2 has a bulkhead similar to yours however that is next project. I may pass it on to the next generation depending on how long it takes me to finish Landy #1.

Click to expand...

Never enough time here either .....mind with 5 series to go at it's no surprise lol ....

SP 4x4 door pillars and feet AND Les Crombie foorwells (with ribs) from ebay seem to be about the best of quality available at a fair price ...

Decent spot weld drill helps too