border
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,517
- Location
- North East. UK
Floors
- Thread starter border
- Start date
This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 16,320
- Location
- Wiltshire
I use captive nuts on bulkhead & seat base to make life easy.
Nut & bolts for the door sill
Nut & bolts for the door sill
Flossie
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 11,049
- Location
- Shropshire
On my 110 I used stainless steel screws into the plastic plugs and stainless steel nuts and bolts for the sills, they remove easily and quickly even after 18yrs.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,572
- Location
- monkeyangerland
I use stainless bolts for the floor bolts near sill but if you use them further in you will need 2 long arms , best use the spire captive nuts , the screws have very coarse threads and not affected by the mud and grit as normal screws would be , using the proper bits you can remove nearly all from above floor just with a couple of screwdrivers
You can also put some 5mm x 20mm foam seal under floor reduce the water getting in
It’s handy sometimes to pull the floor out for access to gearbox
You can also put some 5mm x 20mm foam seal under floor reduce the water getting in
It’s handy sometimes to pull the floor out for access to gearbox
Attachments
If the original coarse thread widgets still work use them with some grease, if not then use stainless nuts and bolt its is, dont use nylocks, instead use the M6 flanged nuts with the serrated flange, once the serrations grip its easy street from then on in.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
- Posts
- 27,632
- Location
- Manchester
I used stainless but the bolts had flat heads with a slot in them so they stayed as flat as poss. Oh and a heavy bead of silicone to keep the water in. Seems such a waste when its gone into the effort of running through the whole series just to run out onto the road 
This I can highly recommended and have done it with both of mine. neoprene tape makes a world of difference and cut out some of the tiny rattle on mine as well.
Why not use nylocs? I did on mine with penny washers and have had no issues. the floors have bene out of the 110 more times than I would wish to count!
The main issue is some are hard to access and you need two long arms, so with nylocks you have to wind the nuts the entire length of the bolt and with some being in awkward positions it takes to long, the serrated flanged nuts are way faster, and like I said above once the serrations grip you then only need one hand, really are a great time saver.
Had both my 90 and s2 floors up a few times, and always pleased I used the flanged nuts.
