Series 3 Flick wipe

I've been removing the unwanted (and slightly dodgy) wiring from my series 3.

This has left me with a hole in the dash (where there was an added switch, I imagine there is usually a blank).

I had an idea that rather than get a blank for it I'd put a momentary switch in to be a flick wipe for the wipers, easy enough I thought. I've basically put the momentary switch between the wiper switch live feed and the feed to the wiper.

The first original wiper switch just stopped working, though I did short something out and had to change the fuse. Ok, changed the fuse and put in my spare switch.

This worked OK for a few goes! Then the actual wiper switch would only work if I jiggled it, then stopped working completely!

It looks like the switch is wired so that when it is in the Off position the park position feed is switched to the wiper feed. And when On the park feed is off and the live is On.

So my flick switch always has the park position live and bypasses the On position. Which I would have thought was ok.

What am I doing wrong? Does all that make sense?

I'm going to take one of the switches apart later to see what's going on inside!

The flick wipe works still, but doesn't self park.

Cheers

Great question. I'd actually like to see a good wiring diagram too (maybe pictures) showing the correct hook-up. I bought a new 2 speed switch with push button for washer, and it works fine, but the wiper does not park.

I don't want to risk changing out the park switch itself which is on the wiper motor. I'm afraid I'll break off the tab and have to open up the wiper motor. I'll do that in the warmer weather, though.
If I knew the correct wiring I'd know if my park switch is really working okay.
Thanks all!
Mike

What a show of with his parking wipers, next it'll be hazards and a radio.......as if

ObiWanKenobi said:

Great question. I'd actually like to see a good wiring diagram too (maybe pictures) showing the correct hook-up. I bought a new 2 speed switch with push button for washer, and it works fine, but the wiper does not park.

I don't want to risk changing out the park switch itself which is on the wiper motor. I'm afraid I'll break off the tab and have to open up the wiper motor. I'll do that in the warmer weather, though.
If I knew the correct wiring I'd know if my park switch is really working okay.
Thanks all!
Mike

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You should have 12V on the Green/Brown wire when the switch is off but the wipers haven't parked. If you haven't it's an issue at the wiper motor end. If you have then it's the switch! I'll let you know what it's like inside!

I think the live Green that feeds the switch is paired up with another green that goes to the wiper motor for the parking, you could check that!

Rodeo Joe said:

What a show of with his parking wipers, next it'll be hazards and a radio.......as if

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Funnily enough I've just made a blank to cover the hole where I guess a radio was. It's a series 3 diesel, you wouldn't be able to hear a radio! And too old for hazards ;-)

Thanks, Bern -
I'll check the wiring.
Mike

No surprises inside the switch, it looks like the contacts just weren't really making with the board, so bent them a bit and cleaned it up! A bit strange that the same thing had happened to both though!!

Not actually tried it on the wipers yet, too cold and dark out there!

Well, that makes no sense! I've just fitted one of the switches and everything worked (including the flick wipe) for a bit. And then stopped. If I moved the connectors on the wiper switch it worked for a bit longer!

I've gone back to the spare switch without the flick wipe and all is good. But how can something so simple not work??

Both the dash switch and park switch are change over swiches. The wiper is always live and one side is always earthed so its very easy to get short circuits. I think you can't put in a flick swich unless is breaks the connection to live as well as makes the conenction to 12v. My bet is your flick swich chaused a dead short until the wiper moved off park.

Ah yes, could be - probably heating up the switch and causing the contacts to bend, but not enough to blow the fuse.

So really I'd need a double pole flick switch, with one pole making the live feed and the other breaking the park feed when flicked on, and vice versa when off.

I thought it'd be a simple little project whilst I had the dash apart!

I think its wired like this, so the dash switch is to earth when its off and you have to break that before you can make the motor live. I have intermittent wipers (very handy) and I seem to recall setting it all up with a relay in place of the dash switch (so you get the change-over) then using an two way switch on the dash with one way on and one via the intermiitent cicuirt.

My understanding of park switch in attached ignore the wired relay in the middle of drawing that is my added intermittent wipe which is programmable by switching extra switching on for time required off and straight back on will do from 2 secs to 30 secs intervals from memory if just switched on does default of 7 second interval.
Parking switch earths supply line to give instant stop.

The dash switch definitely only has either the park or the live feeding the motor at any point, so it makes sense that the park switch going to earth is reason for that.

Thinking about it, a double pole flick switch wouldn't work either, as the park path would be live through it when the main switch is on.

I'd probably have to replace the current main switch with say an up-flick, down-on style switch with the correct terminals going live/not live as required!

But I've more important things to do really!

(Though I do like the idea of the intermittent wipers, maybe one day.....)

This mite help, my brother use to be a member of the MG owner's club and the mg's of the same era as series landy's had the same problem and made up a kit with intermittent wiper aswell as twin speed wiper which can be fitted to a series landy but you can only buy it from the MG owner's club.
I'm half thinking of fitting one to mine when I get to the electrical stage ( full rebuild ) hope this helps

The cheapset way is to get an intermiitent wipe relay from aa scrappy, once you work out the connections you can put a two way swich in. Its easier yuo put a relay in place of the dash switch then you put a two way switch in - 1 way direct to wiper relay, 2 via intermittent delay relay. I have that but use the Maplin wiper circuit, these were great but now Maplin is gone I don't know who has them. Something like this would work and you could get the wiring details off the Corsa web sites.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL...h=item25df656d8c:g:hrEAAOxyJX1TBgEF:rk:3:pf:0

My intermittent wipe relay is a VW99 , bought a defender item which had the same pin outs but only gave fixed 7 second interval.
Recently bought another from ebay not yet tried it this was .
820-Audi VW Seat 357955531 Black-99 Wipers (Replacement) Relay 6-Pin DDP DODUCO
ebay item 263644171503 still advertised now.
The annoying thing is I bought two new relays and then worked out the problem was the switch I have used for intermittent wipe is on its way out , if I switch it on and it fails to work, pull toggle towards me and it will work ok till the next time I come to need it when I have to repeat.
Will order some better made switches as I have 4 of this type on various functions.

rob1miles said:

I think its wired like this, so the dash switch is to earth when its off and you have to break that before you can make the motor live. I have intermittent wipers (very handy) and I seem to recall setting it all up with a relay in place of the dash switch (so you get the change-over) then using an two way switch on the dash with one way on and one via the intermiitent cicuirt.
View attachment 168244

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Thanks Rob -
Nice diagram!
Mike