flat battery/hvac and cruise control help please

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fanatic

fanatic

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After looking round google for a couple of weeks and various sites I'm still stumped as to a solution.

Battery went flat after I first bought my p38, thought nothing of it and bought a new one-noticed in park and neutral sometimes the light glows faintly. has been fine for two weeks and then less than 24 hours it's back to flattening the battery.

Having ordered a set of blend motors and 'o' rings for heater matrix, I have a faulty drivers side blend motor, also sometimes the backlight disappears, sometimes the backlight is bright and the display disappears, and sometimes the outside temperature drops to 0 on a fine dry day.

Lastly after fixing the cruise control vac pipe the cruise control either does nothing/randomly clicks or will work perfectly and then drop out.

having searched for hours I'd be grateful of any suggestions.
 
You more than likely have the dreaded RF receiver problem. The red light on the gear shift lights up dimly to show the Becm is in active mode. When you lock the car it is supposed to go into sleep mode but if your car is fitted with the original remote locking receiver it gets woken up by your neighbours wi-fi, remote weather station, garage opener etc, anything operating on 433mhz wakes up the Becm which then drains the battery.
Do a search on here under battery drain and you'll get the whole story. You need to change the receiver or at least disconnect the aerial to prevent it happening.
While your dash is apart get new bulbs for the HeVac display, this will sort out your display.
The external temp sensor is well known to give up the ghost, normally it comes up to temp after a while, but basically you probably need to replace the sensor. Depending on the model its behind the front bumper or up behind the pollen filter (I think!)

I would think that you still have leaks with your cruise control vac pipes.

All your issues are commom occurences and are well discussed in threads here, I hate saying it because I can't work the search properly here, but if you can search through the threads you'll get the info you need
 
Thanks, I'll try removing the aerial for remote locking first
 
Just as SpudH said,

Let us know if you think it is the reciever

Have a good look at your cruise bellows they can split, also at the tee piece as it cracks. Check your hose again for leaks,cracks and splits.
The cruise control switch on the pedal also gives trouble
 
thank you for responses, will post back when I've had further look
 
Have done driver blender motor (blue one) without taking dash out, complete git but 4 hours and no cutting or damage.
(1/4 spanner,screw driver, pz2 bit and insulating tape) If anyones interested I can explain further.

Ac dims randomly- cured as bulb loose.

Cruise control the vac pipe extremely tight round column and pulling switch, re-routed it and all appears okay so far.

Heater o rings and hose kit to fit next.

Strangely no more flat battery so far, could it be proximity to key as the fob is 3-4 meters away in conservatory-if not I'll whip the aerial out.

Thank you for help and advice
 
fanatic said:
Lastly after fixing the cruise control vac pipe the cruise control either does nothing/randomly clicks or will work perfectly and then drop out.
Click to expand...

If your cruise control is anything like the hella gr65 then your symptoms definitely indicate the vacuum dump switch or the brake light switch needs adjusting according to your workshop manual.

the gr65 is explained here:

Rover SD1 Hella GR65 Cruise Control

I put circuits here yesterday:

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/cruise-control-question-60475.html

Ramon

Vintage Model Airplane and Rover SD1 3500cc Twin Plenum Vitesse
 
Just to add to this thread - always leave the vehicle in P when parked, not only for safety but if you don't then the BeCM never goes to sleep and this will cause battery drain.

-Wills :)
 
Thank you for all the helpful replies, have done the heater o rings-no dash out and with practice it's a 2 hour job.

With regard to remote receiver I have found

"Note also that Land Rover belatedly recognized this problem and has had two attempts at curing it. A partial official fix from Land Rover became available in 2004 from the UK dealer network whereby the stock RF receiver (Part # AFR1953) was superceded by a new one (YWY500010). Gunnar Arthursson reports that this receiver was less subject to interference, but did not completely cure the interference problem. Accordingly, it has since been superceded by an even newer design, part number YWY500170. Gunnar reportst that Owners with this latest update have not reported any further problem."

my part number is pa6gf30 external and 710 682883 internal is this affected one?

 
fanatic said:
Thank you for all the helpful replies, have done the heater o rings-no dash out and with practice it's a 2 hour job.

my part number is pa6gf30 is this affected one?
Click to expand...


Sounds like you are reading a part number stamped on the outside of the receiver - almost ALL LR parts bar a few all have three letters infront of them, like STC, BTR, AWR, STR, YWY etc. Im pretty sure I remember lots of people saying that receiver doesn't have any LR part number stamped on it.

Did you get your new receiver in LR packaging??

If you do a search then there is a thread somewhere on here where someone popped off the cover of their old receiver and their new one to compare them - if you can find it you can do the same and compare your new receiver with the photo.

-Wills :)
 
H i've seen the pictures in the posting you refer to.
The makers name stamped into the casing is like the old model, though internally it looks similar to the new model but the sticker doesn't match.

Odd as it seems the car has been fine for a week, same as last time I moved it on the drive and the battery was flat by 7 am the next morning. I've disconnected the aerial to see if it affects things.
My only concern is a camping weekend soon.
thanks for you help:)
 
H i've seen the pictures in the posting you refer to.
The makers name stamped into the casing is like the old model, though internally it looks like the new model but the sticker doesn't match.

Odd as it seems the car has been fine for a week, same as last time I moved it on the drive and the battery was flat by 7 am the next morning. I've disconnected the aerial to see if it affects things.
My only concern is a camping weekend soon.
 
okay an update, trying with a conventional 10amp meter resulted in nothing. using a 1000amp clamp meter I have found the front screen isn't cancelling after 4 mins or on turning the ignition key off.

It almost appears as if the output is feeding the input of the relay.
By this I mean that one relay reads 0v on the coil side open and ignition off push the relay closed and 9.78volts appears on coil side keeping heater on.

As this is random fault previously disconnecting battery to connect ammeter cleared the fault

Is the heater timer controlled by hvac ecu or is there another explanation.
 
South africa for the weekend, sounds better than the rainy uk.

One of the problems I've found is trying to find information regarding the wiring of the various items.

I've stripped out engine compartment fuse box and found a corroded terminal-cleaned and sprayed with anti corrosion spray.

stripped back off a broken hvac unit and put my undamaged screen on it-improved but not a cure.

I know that there is are relays inside the bcem for the heated seats and rear screen- I've listened to them operate.

The front screen has two relays in the engine compartment and i'm guessing is controlled by bcem for 4 minute timer function.

I'm now guessing the random cruise control working and heated screen fault and dimming hvac control are all connected. as I've looked at each item seperately and found no fault as such

A proper wiring diagram or assistance with loom earth locations would really help. my next plan of attack is to disconnect battery,remove seat and check all bcem connectors and earths for corrosion.

Any further ideas welcome
 
fanatic said:
A proper wiring diagram or assistance with loom earth locations would really help. my next plan of attack is to disconnect battery,remove seat and check all bcem connectors and earths for corrosion.
Click to expand...

Ive not read through this entire thread but for wiring diagrams download RAVE, it contains the electrical troubleshooting manual which will help you out no end with the problems you are having.

-Wills :)
 
clamp meter found that the front heated screen stays on=flat battery-removed fuses fo moment.
weird electrical faults found corroded connector on bcm
 
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