L322 Fixed-suspension lights/codes/fault - running out of ideas

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DBug

Member
Posts
37
Location
Scotland
Hi everyone,

I’m just re-entering the forum with a change of RR. This car is the L322 2008 Auto diesel 3.6 TDV8.

We bought it knowing we would have issues to fix, but for the sake of OH’s sanity, I think it’s now time to seek help.

Bought the car with 22” bling wheels - so whipped them off and replaced with 19” originally with the wrong size tyres, then realised the tyres were wrong and refitted with new standard size tyres.

Now, due to our lack of memory with the previous RR, we merely jacked it up without realising the RR’s can be sensitive to this. Mistake on our part.

Of course we then got the usual collection of suspension alerts - text on screen says HDC Fault system not available - the sat nav screen says Terrain system fault, we also have dash lights for all terrain mode, ABS and headlight levelling (upward facing headlamp with swivel arrow). We can get the car to raise and lower when the lights clear and all seems well. It seems to be happy moving on the spot it just flares up when we move.

Set about trying to resolve this - tried full lock each way, battery reset (following procedure) then got the fault scanner out. We have an Autel MaxiDAS. It was giving us a code for the rear left speed sensor, so got it out (eventually) after it broke up into 1000 pieces, and replaced it. Initially all lights cleared until we got to about 100 yards away/10-15mph (The code is still re-occurring and a cross check of driving whilst the scanner is plugged in shows it is slightly out on the readings compared to the others, seems to be a 1-2mph ahead or behind depending on acceleration or deceleration ). The code reader cannot turn it off, but the lights do clear time to time, and then as soon as you move and get above 7mph it re-occurs. We’ve also check the height sensors and they seem to be pointing the right way, but perhaps a cross check would be a good idea if we can get it in high mode again.

We got distracted thinking we may have a battery issue - we’ve made repetitive checks, so we’ve charged it disconnected and watched for discharge over a few days - it charges to circa 13.4v then discharges to about 12.6v and doesn’t move from there. When connected it sits at about 12.2-12.3v, in sleep mode its 12.2-12.5v, running the alternator seems to give good charge 14.3/4v. I know RR are funny about not having a brilliant battery, but it seems from what I’ve read, that we’re right on the edge of OK/Not OK.

Concerned we had a current drain we did a parasitic test, found a few suspect circuits, primarily 9/11/12 maybe/22/32 maybe/40/49.

We pulled one of the headlight levelling fuses which was suspect (32) and the lights cleared, but again soon after moving they reoccurred. Fuses 40 + 49 were out at the same time. We have tried replicating this today and it didn’t have the same effect - very random

We are getting a great deal of codes. A lot of U codes which I had put down to the battery being disconnected as we can talk to every ECU. They generally clear. We are getting some B codes too, most recently things like B1151-13/B1155-7A and B1156-7A but these are drivers/passengers seat codes and haven’t previously been seen.

The car is still complaining about the speed sensor - P0500-00. Again from what I’ve read this seems to be a generic code.

We do have a few other issues to fix, such as heated seats not working, steering wheel motor not going up and down (is coming in and out) and the parking sensors mucking about but I don’t think any of this can be related. The code reader isn’t returning any steering angle sensor malfunctions.


I appreciate this is a lot of separate information and unlikely relevant.

A battery replacement will have no benefit if we have a drain, so I’m reluctant to spend several hundred on a new battery if it doesn’t sort it. I don’t want to just chuck parts as this sensitive machine. I would rather have a good idea of what the issue is first.

Any advice most welcome as I’m unsure which path is best.

Thanks in advance

Nicky
 
Sounds like that sensor is playing a part in this. You seem to suggest it wasn't like that before, and the sensor cured it until it ran out of sync with the others @7mph+. If it thinks one wheel is spinning differently it will panick driving on a straight road and throw a s**t fit
 
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Hi thanks for the replies. On further inspection it appears to ABS reluctor ring is damaged, so currently having a fight trying to separate the driveshaft and the hub to get to it.
 
It may read like a ton of work but keep pushing through it and the list will get smaller and the light at the end will arrive!!
There is plenty of help on here from peeps who have dealt with these things and help others to deal with theirs. As long as you keep giving detailed info and answering the questions as you are, it'll happen.
Good luck;)
 
Thanks Mark, I appreciate the encouragement- you’re absolutely right the light is hopefully getting closer but the lust has definately gone.
Finally got the hub and driveshaft assembly out as one, they are currently sat in a friends 10 ton press and not budging ! :(
 
Thanks Mark, I appreciate the encouragement- you’re absolutely right the light is hopefully getting closer but the lust has definately gone.
Finally got the hub and driveshaft assembly out as one, they are currently sat in a friends 10 ton press and not budging ! :(
I reckon you need a 20 tonne press to have any hope:eek:
 
Ah good pointers kds thanks, it’s been sat in the press all day soaking in oil as suggested, not sure if it’s been persuaded yet. Failing that off the local garage to use a bigger press. No wonder we couldn’t get it out in situ!
 
Well with lots of persistence our friend managed to release the hub and driveshaft. A picture of what remains of the reluctor ring is attached- holy cow!
 

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Despite best efforts we had to replace the driveshaft and hub. After getting them apart and trying to clean everything up they were too damaged when we attempted to put them back together. It’s all now reassembled but the issues arnt quite gone yet :mad:
 
Well with lots of persistence our friend managed to release the hub and driveshaft. A picture of what remains of the reluctor ring is attached- holy cow!

Is that not the clip holding the CV boot in place?

Good news on the sensor. Finding decent parts is an absolute nightmare. There are so many Chinese fakes even motor-factors get duff stock.
 
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