Series 3 Fitting mud shields to front wings

My series 3 has not had mud shields fitted in all of the time I have owned it. I am assuming this is because of the badly corroded bracket they bolt to on the underside of the wing top. I have now cut the protruding remains of the this bracket off so tat is is flat and have made up some thicker aluminium brackets to replace it. Obviously this bracket was originally spot welded onto the wing which I will not be able to do. I am currently trying to decide between rivets or stainless fairing bolts (similar to these: link). Either way the top side of the wing will be painted (needs doing anyway) so the visible heads of either will become body coloured rather stay shiny silver.

So the question now is what is the best method of fixing the new bracket to the wing top?

I did much the same on my 2a,pop rivets held new brackets in place and at the bottom of the mud shield I trapped a rubber sheet between it and the footwell that hung down so protecting the footwell and outrigger from crud thrown from the wheel.
Two bird's one stone.

I did mine two years ago. Originally tried fixing the bracket with Gorilla epoxy glue. Didn't last. I've refixed them by riveting in place cos like you I'm gonna paint the wings. YRM solutions sell brackets with predrilled holes. Good trick is to mount the mud shield bolts with rubber tap washers to provide a breathing space that can be cleaned to avoid rusting.

John S said:

I did mine two years ago. Originally tried fixing the bracket with Gorilla epoxy glue. Didn't last. I've refixed them by riveting in place cos like you I'm gonna paint the wings. YRM solutions sell brackets with predrilled holes. Good trick is to mount the mud shield bolts with rubber tap washers to provide a breathing space that can be cleaned to avoid rusting.

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I have added an extra nut between the shield and the footwell for this reason and all of the bolts will are stainless. .
I had seen the YRM ones, but as it just a piece of bent aluminium sheet it was easy enough to make my own and save the money.

looks like riveting is the way everyone else has done it, guess there is no real advantage to making it removal.

I did mine. Used 1/8 countersunk pop rivets and used a 3/16 ball bearing to press a countersunk in the wing (that makes it sound easy, its not), done right the rivets are almost invisble. I ended up fitting chequer plate wing tops to cover the army aerial holes, wing mirror holes and stop me falling off when I load the roof rack. I too used extra nuts to space the shields off the footwells.