fitting an eberspacher heater in a 110Defender

  • Thread starter Anniebracken via CarKB.com
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Anniebracken via CarKB.com

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I,ve recently purchased an old eberspacher heater and was wondering if there
was acommon place to fit them into a 110 CSW. Or wether it was possible to
stick it under the bonnett and attach it to your regular ducting. Does
anybody have any info on this subject ?

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/land-rover/200512/1
 
Anniebracken via CarKB.com wrote:
> I,ve recently purchased an old eberspacher heater and was wondering if there
> was acommon place to fit them into a 110 CSW. Or wether it was possible to
> stick it under the bonnett and attach it to your regular ducting. Does
> anybody have any info on this subject ?
>
I've just bought one as well, so we can compare notes!


I was planning on fitting it under the drivers seat, I reckoned that
"under bonnet" was too exposed.

Cheers

Peter
(lr(at)puffer-nutter.co.uk)

 
puffernutter <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
funny about:

> I've just bought one as well, so we can compare notes!
>
>
> I was planning on fitting it under the drivers seat, I reckoned that
> "under bonnet" was too exposed.
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
> (lr(at)puffer-nutter.co.uk)

Couldn't find the last thread.. any idea how many Watts the 24v system would
pull?

Only ask as I strung up some christmas lamps yesterday 20m of them. The
transformer was for 24v 42 watts. Made me think of your dilema. If the
wattage was right nothing stopping you running such a transformer through a
inverter off a 12v system. Long way about it but you could use the inverter
for other uses in the warm weather. If you break down in a desert you could
string out the christmas lamps as a mobile helipad marker.

:)

Personally I'd build a box and mount it under the wing to the previous
heater inlet if interior space is an issue.

Lee D


 

Lee_D wrote:
> puffernutter <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
> funny about:
>
> > I've just bought one as well, so we can compare notes!
> >
> >
> > I was planning on fitting it under the drivers seat, I reckoned that
> > "under bonnet" was too exposed.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Peter
> > (lr(at)puffer-nutter.co.uk)
>
> Couldn't find the last thread.. any idea how many Watts the 24v system would
> pull?
>
On start up, about 12A (250W+!) probably due to the glowplug.

> > :)
>
> Personally I'd build a box and mount it under the wing to the previous
> heater inlet if interior space is an issue.

I wouldn't necessarily support that as I understand that the heat
coming out the diesel heater (I can't spell ebar...) is much hotter
than the heat you would find from the cars water (heater) system and
may lead to damage (collapsing the heater pipes) to the existing
system. (I'd thought of doing that as well!)

I suggest that you stick to the pipes supplied with the heater.
>
> Lee D

Peter

 
puffernutter wrote:
>> puffernutter <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
>> funny about:
>[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>> Couldn't find the last thread.. any idea how many Watts the 24v system would
>> pull?
>
>On start up, about 12A (250W+!) probably due to the glowplug.
>
>> > :)
>>
>> Personally I'd build a box and mount it under the wing to the previous
>> heater inlet if interior space is an issue.
>
>I wouldn't necessarily support that as I understand that the heat
>coming out the diesel heater (I can't spell ebar...) is much hotter
>than the heat you would find from the cars water (heater) system and
>may lead to damage (collapsing the heater pipes) to the existing
>system. (I'd thought of doing that as well!)
>
> I suggest that you stick to the pipes supplied with the heater.
>
>> Lee D
>
>Peter
Yeah that would make sense. I had thought originally that it maybe quiter
under the bonnett (away from the cab)too as they tend to be a bit noisy

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
 
puffernutter wrote:
>> I,ve recently purchased an old eberspacher heater and was wondering if there
>> was acommon place to fit them into a 110 CSW. Or wether it was possible to
>> stick it under the bonnett and attach it to your regular ducting. Does
>> anybody have any info on this subject ?
>
>I've just bought one as well, so we can compare notes!
>
>I was planning on fitting it under the drivers seat, I reckoned that
>"under bonnet" was too exposed.
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter
>(lr(at)puffer-nutter.co.uk)
Which direction would you have the hot air blasting from.?.. would make a
cracking seat warmer

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
 
Lee_D wrote:
>puffernutter <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz
>funny about:
>
>> I've just bought one as well, so we can compare notes!
>>
>[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>> Peter
>> (lr(at)puffer-nutter.co.uk)
>
>Couldn't find the last thread.. any idea how many Watts the 24v system would
>pull?
>
>Only ask as I strung up some christmas lamps yesterday 20m of them. The
>transformer was for 24v 42 watts. Made me think of your dilema. If the
>wattage was right nothing stopping you running such a transformer through a
>inverter off a 12v system. Long way about it but you could use the inverter
>for other uses in the warm weather. If you break down in a desert you could
>string out the christmas lamps as a mobile helipad marker.
>
>:)
>
>Personally I'd build a box and mount it under the wing to the previous
>heater inlet if interior space is an issue.
>
>Lee D
It,s the 12volt one Ive got and apparantly it draws 20amps from the battery-
I thought of outside mounting to keep the humming noise dampened as well as
the space it would save.Then I suppose I would have more space to take me
christmas tree to the dessert as well:)

--
Message posted via http://www.carkb.com
 
puffernutter <[email protected]> uttered summat worrerz funny
about:

> I wouldn't necessarily support that as I understand that the heat
> coming out the diesel heater (I can't spell ebar...) is much hotter
> than the heat you would find from the cars water (heater) system and
> may lead to damage (collapsing the heater pipes) to the existing
> system. (I'd thought of doing that as well!)
>
> I suggest that you stick to the pipes supplied with the heater.

Good point, it would obliterate the plastic pipes.

Lee D


 
On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 15:22:35 GMT, "Anniebracken via CarKB.com"
<u16379@uwe> wrote:

>I,ve recently purchased an old eberspacher heater and was wondering if there
>was acommon place to fit them into a 110 CSW. Or wether it was possible to
>stick it under the bonnett and attach it to your regular ducting. Does
>anybody have any info on this subject ?

If its anything like the 101 petrol one then its going to pump out a
lot of heat which could melt anything too close to it.
If you didnt have a station wagon i'd be putting it on the back of the
bulkhead behind the seats and then putting some ducting on it to make
it blow into the front cab between the front seats.

The way that the 101 is done the eber blows through a lot of piping
and ducting (it goes though the inside of the ally box section that
makes up the bulkhead). It still comes out hot.

You could just stick it in the back of the landy somewhere. Its still
going to warm the whole interior up!
 
In article <[email protected]>, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> writes

>You could just stick it in the back of the landy somewhere. Its still
>going to warm the whole interior up!

I was wondering about sticking one up under the bench seat LHS rear,
where the filler pipe is on t'other side, with a right angled pipe to a
vent at floor level. It makes all the piping very easy, although I'd
have to construct some sort of mudguard to protect it.

Would it fit?

Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 22:35:15 GMT, SpamTrapSeeSig
<[email protected]> wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>, Tom Woods
><[email protected]> writes
>
>>You could just stick it in the back of the landy somewhere. Its still
>>going to warm the whole interior up!
>
>I was wondering about sticking one up under the bench seat LHS rear,
>where the filler pipe is on t'other side, with a right angled pipe to a
>vent at floor level. It makes all the piping very easy, although I'd
>have to construct some sort of mudguard to protect it.
>
>Would it fit?

This is a 101 petrol eber:
http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/101/PC080002-Small.JPG

you can just about see the seat cushion in the bottom of the pic which
should give you an idea of the scale (101 seat cushions are the same
size as series ones i think)

 
In article <[email protected]>, Tom Woods
<[email protected]> writes

>This is a 101 petrol eber:
>http://www.zen68482.zen.co.uk/101/PC080002-Small.JPG
>
>you can just about see the seat cushion in the bottom of the pic which
>should give you an idea of the scale (101 seat cushions are the same
>size as series ones i think)

Thanks: looks like game on...


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
> Only ask as I strung up some christmas lamps yesterday 20m of them. The
> transformer was for 24v 42 watts. Made me think of your dilema. If the
> wattage was right nothing stopping you running such a transformer through
> a inverter off a 12v system.
>
Then you wouldn't need the Eberspacher, with all the heat given off by the
inverter, then all the heat given off by the transformer!


 

Tom Woods wrote:
> On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 15:22:35 GMT, "Anniebracken via CarKB.com"
> <u16379@uwe> wrote:
>
> >I,ve recently purchased an old eberspacher heater and was wondering if there
> >was acommon place to fit them into a 110 CSW. Or wether it was possible to
> >stick it under the bonnett and attach it to your regular ducting. Does
> >anybody have any info on this subject ?
>
> If its anything like the 101 petrol one then its going to pump out a
> lot of heat which could melt anything too close to it.

>
<snip>

The manual (available from download from the website), just says keep
it 2" away from anything that may be affected. I still reckon that the
drivers seat box will be ideal. The hot air intake will be at the back
of the in the rear footwell, the heat would come out next to my cubby
box and heat the front area. I'd even leave the heating pipe "free" so
that I could move it to point backward to warm the back of the car when
we leave the dogs in there over a cold night. (Yeah, I know, I'm too
soft with my hounds!)

Cheers

Peter

 
Points to consider:
Heat output is high, keep outlets clear.
Fit several outlets for better heat spread.
Lag trunking with loft insulation and duct tape to avoid heat loss.
Current draw is around 20 amps on startup, 3 or less when running.
Protect unit from the elements. Mount in protected position.
Ensure air inlets are not in airstream. Not designed for forced ventilation.
Service annually.
Peter


 
Peter wrote:
> Points to consider:
> Heat output is high, keep outlets clear.
> Fit several outlets for better heat spread.
> Lag trunking with loft insulation and duct tape to avoid heat loss.
> Current draw is around 20 amps on startup, 3 or less when running.
> Protect unit from the elements. Mount in protected position.
> Ensure air inlets are not in airstream. Not designed for forced ventilation.
> Service annually.
> Peter

All good stuff, I reckon that under the driver's seat will give me the
protection it requires. My only concern might be blockage of the air
inlet (in the rear footwell) I may look for a better place.

Spreading the heat around is good - do you know of a source of pipe and
"Y"'s that don't cost the earth i.e. not necessarily Eberspacher, but
equal in form, fit and function?

I've only found one so far (R Thursby) and a the ducting is around
£28/m, a single "Y" piece is £35 and an outlet is £20!

Cheers

Peter

 
In article <[email protected]>,
puffernutter <[email protected]> writes

>do you know of a source of pipe and
>"Y"'s that don't cost the earth i.e. not necessarily Eberspacher, but
>equal in form, fit and function?
>
>I've only found one so far (R Thursby) and a the ducting is around
>£28/m, a single "Y" piece is £35 and an outlet is £20!

I have some baked bean tins available for only £2 each - that's a mere
£10/metre (even less per yard, but I understand we're supposedly metric
now).

They can be flexibly combined in sets to provide different lengths, and
for filling awkward distances I also have short adapters (part#:
T-00-NA'Tuna') for a modest extra amount. Y fittings though will
continue to cost about £35 eaxch, although discounts may be available
when combined with substantial bean tin orders.

If you also require the beans, they are still available but will add to
the postage cost, because of the extra packaging required.


Regards,

Simonm.

--
simonm|at|muircom|dot|demon|.|c|oh|dot|u|kay
SIMON MUIR, BRISTOL UK www.ukip.org
EUROPEANS AGAINST THE EU www.members.aol.com/eurofaq
GT250A'76 R80/RT'86 110CSW TD'88 www.kc3ltd.co.uk/profile/eurofollie/
 
puffernutter muttered summat about:

> Peter wrote:
>> Points to consider:
>> Heat output is high, keep outlets clear.
>> Fit several outlets for better heat spread.
>> Lag trunking with loft insulation and duct tape to avoid heat loss.
>> Current draw is around 20 amps on startup, 3 or less when running.
>> Protect unit from the elements. Mount in protected position.
>> Ensure air inlets are not in airstream. Not designed for forced
>> ventilation. Service annually.
>> Peter
>
> All good stuff, I reckon that under the driver's seat will give me the
> protection it requires. My only concern might be blockage of the air
> inlet (in the rear footwell) I may look for a better place.
>
> Spreading the heat around is good - do you know of a source of pipe
> and "Y"'s that don't cost the earth i.e. not necessarily Eberspacher,
> but equal in form, fit and function?
>
> I've only found one so far (R Thursby) and a the ducting is around
> £28/m, a single "Y" piece is £35 and an outlet is £20!
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter

know nothing about them, but did see this on ebay if it helps...

Item number: 4595772372

--
Graham

101 GS
101 Rad Bod


 
Graham G wrote:
> puffernutter muttered summat about:
>
>
>>Peter wrote:
>>
>>>Points to consider:
>>>Heat output is high, keep outlets clear.
>>>Fit several outlets for better heat spread.
>>>Lag trunking with loft insulation and duct tape to avoid heat loss.
>>>Current draw is around 20 amps on startup, 3 or less when running.
>>>Protect unit from the elements. Mount in protected position.
>>>Ensure air inlets are not in airstream. Not designed for forced
>>>ventilation. Service annually.
>>>Peter
>>
>>All good stuff, I reckon that under the driver's seat will give me the
>>protection it requires. My only concern might be blockage of the air
>>inlet (in the rear footwell) I may look for a better place.
>>
>>Spreading the heat around is good - do you know of a source of pipe
>>and "Y"'s that don't cost the earth i.e. not necessarily Eberspacher,
>>but equal in form, fit and function?
>>
>>I've only found one so far (R Thursby) and a the ducting is around
>>£28/m, a single "Y" piece is £35 and an outlet is £20!
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>Peter
>
>
> know nothing about them, but did see this on ebay if it helps...
>
> Item number: 4595772372
>
Thanks.

I'd seen that as well and been in touch this morning.

A far more reasonable price and a knowledgeable bloke at the other end.

He'll be having my business!

Cheers

Peter
 

> Points to consider:
> Heat output is high, keep outlets clear.
> Fit several outlets for better heat spread.
> Lag trunking with loft insulation and duct tape to avoid heat loss.
> Current draw is around 20 amps on startup, 3 or less when running.
> Protect unit from the elements. Mount in protected position.
> Ensure air inlets are not in airstream. Not designed for forced
> ventilation.
> Service annually.
>
Keep the combustion air inlet out of spray (salt doesn't do the innards any
good!)
Run it for 10 mins a week in summer


 
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