Fitted new barrels - can still open with the wrong key!

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huffhuff

huffhuff

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I have started a new thread instead of highjacking the other, hope that's ok...

I have only just got around to fitting the new barrels I bought from sp-4x4.

Maybe i'm doing something wrong, but can't see what (it's only 1 screw...). I can open this new lock with my old key....and my house yale...and any other that fits at least a few mm in there.

Here is the new barrel fitted with the extension bit (taken from old lock). I am putting it in with the protruding pins oriented at the top of the handle. Is that right? Does it make a difference?

lock.JPG


Any advice, or is that pretty much how it's going to be regardless of what lock I buy?

How is the mechanism supposed to work?

Thanks in advance,

Ben

PS. After a 0230am panic (in boxers, in the rain with a torch) where i'm sure somebody was in the car trying to steal it, I will be putting the old locks back on. They are all different keys and one doesn't work, but that's better than what I now have.
 
top drive said:
somethings no right

i can tell you now that only my new keys open my SP 4x4 locks as i did try them with the old keys out of curiousity !
Click to expand...

Weird then. I've tried 3 of the 4 barrels, same thing.

Maybe the mechanism isn't functioning right then? How is it supposed to work?

I just tried my fuel cap key and that works too, I literally bought it last week, completely different key.
 
i have no idea how its supposed to work .

i just put the key in the barrel , pushed the pin on the end down inserted into the door turned 180 and the barrel was locked in place , then i turned the key to lock it.

Are you putting thme in push buttons or lift up handles ? no idea what difference it makes mind you but im putting them in lift ups. I bought the lift ups and the barrels from SP
 
top drive said:
i have no idea how its supposed to work .

i just put the key in the barrel , pushed the pin on the end down inserted into the door turned 180 and the barrel was locked in place , then i turned the key to lock it.

Are you putting thme in push buttons or lift up handles ? no idea what difference it makes mind you but im putting them in lift ups. I bought the lift ups and the barrels from SP
Click to expand...

Nope, these are push-buttons.

I'll have another go in a bit, maybe take them out and coat in lubricant.

Ho hum... does no good for my constant paranoia about it being nicked :) (but maybe that will never leave)
 
nobber said:
Is the whole thing turning?
Click to expand...

I will try and get a video of it in action today. Would you like it in or out of the lock? I tried it in my hand, nothing seems to happen until it's in and screwed at the rear.

What should turn and what shouldn't turn? I put a key in, turn it as you would normally do, it twists, clicks and the lock disengages.
 
Take the barrel out of the door handle and try inserting the key in the barrel when you do this the tumblers will line up and not extend outside of the barrel diameter (the brass strips which are spring loaded).
When the key is withdrawn the tumblers will start to protrude outside of the barrel diameter.
Now look at the hole it fits into in the door handle, it should have a slot into which the tumblers engage when the key is removed.
When the key is out of the barrel or when the wrong key is inserted the tumblers will engage in the slot NOT allowing the barrel to turn.
Take a good look at the slot in the door handle is it still serviceable? the edges of the slot should be nice and square not chamfered where the tumblers have eroded the slot away if this is the case and the edges are not square then it is the handle which is past its best allowing the barrel to turn even when the wrong key is inserted (in this case anything that will enter the key slot and you are able to turn it will open the lock).

You will need to replace the handle and the barrel's.
 
Last edited:
Tim4x4 said:
Take the barrel out of the door handle and try inserting the key in the barrel when you do this the tumblers will line up and not extend outside of the barrel diameter (the brass strips which are spring loaded).
When the key is withdrawn the tumblers will start to protrude outside of the barrel diameter.
Now look at the hole it fits into in the door handle, it should have a slot into which the tumblers engage when the key is removed.
When the key is out of the barrel or when the wrong key is inserted the tumblers will engage in the slot NOT allowing the barrel to turn.
Take a good look at the slot in the door handle is it still serviceable? the edges of the slot should be nice and square not chamfered where the tumblers have eroded the slot away if this is the case and the edges are not square then it is the handle which is past its best allowing the barrel to turn even when the wrong key is inserted (in this case anything that will enter the key slot and you are able to turn it will open the lock).

You will need to replace the handle and the barrel's.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this, I can now see how they're supposed to work. I'll check first thing tomorrow... I have a feeling I know what's next on the shopping list...
 
Ahaaaahaaaaaa. It all becomes clear now. I've just been out and looked a bit further (thanks Tim4x4).

There is a sleeve inside the handle that the barrel slides in to. I've tried getting it in the picture, you can see the chaffing effect on what should be a square/flat edge.

lock2.JPG


Now, can I buy these sleeves on their own or do I need to buy entirely new handles.
 
Last edited:
I believe that the sleeve you have in the picture is moulded into the handle and should not be removable.
As you have it detached from the handle I did take a look for a separate part number for it but was unable to locate one, so back to what I believe and it must be a replacement handle which will include the sleeve.

Not knowing which model you have I do not know a part number as there is differences but typical pricing is


Your Search Results >

Your Search Results >

Big difference between genuine and pattern, I would take a serious look at a pattern part before I purchased.
See if they will let you insert your new lock barrel into a genuine part and then the pattern part check for free play (how much the barrel with key removed will rotate in the handle).
You need to be checking for free play when the key is out this is indication how good a fit the tumblers will have when locked.
If you have a difference in the amount free play in one than another go for the one with the least free play.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks Tim4x4

I've already ordered some pattern replacements as there isn't anywhere close for me to try both for wriggle-room. I'll see how it goes, if the amount of play seems excessive, I can send them back, remortgage the house and buy genuine LR parts :)

Thanks up to now, much appreciated
 
huffhuff said:
Thanks Tim4x4

I've already ordered some pattern replacements as there isn't anywhere close for me to try both for wriggle-room. I'll see how it goes, if the amount of play seems excessive, I can send them back, remortgage the house and buy genuine LR parts :)

Thanks up to now, much appreciated
Click to expand...

if they are no good, how about a bit of weld and a file? or is it cast. can't really tell
 
Trax, the material is a Zinc-Alloy, not something you would weld as a repair.
You could try something like Lumiweld to build up the area, I have used this product in the past to repair damaged motorcycle carburettors. It is not the easiest job to do so for the cost of a new handle I would not bother.

Just checked the price of Lumiweld and it would be cheaper to buy two new handles and not have the work in repairing the old ones.

The cost of replacing the carburettor would make it cost effective to repair with Lumiweld.
 
Last edited:
Tim4x4 said:
Trax, the material is a Zinc-Alloy, not something you would weld as a repair.
You could try something like Lumiweld to build up the area, I have used this product in the past to repair damaged motorcycle carburettors. It is not the easiest job to do so for the cost of a new handle I would not bother.

Just checked the price of Lumiweld and it would be cheaper to buy two new handles and not have the work in repairing the old ones.

The cost of replacing the carburettor would make it cost effective to repair with Lumiweld.
Click to expand...

ah thanks, nice info
 
Hi all,

Only just getting back around to this. New (pattern) handles arrived. The new lock barrel in the new handle still opens with my old key!

I'm either missing something completely or i've just been unlucky with barrel selection? Maybe i'll give where I bought the locks a ring.

I fitted central locking and it's been 100% reliable so far. I have taken the door lock pins out and wasn't going to refit them for security reasons. I've now thought a step further and i'm contemplating taking the lock barrels out completely and relying solely on the central locking to open and lock the car. I'll fill in the holes on the handle. I will leave the rear door barrel in for emergency use if central locking goes squiffy.

Any ideas or thoughts?
 
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