First Defender restoration. Tools needed?

Hi Guys
Just bought my first Defender. Paid a bit more than I intended, but it has bomb proof mechanicals and comes from a very reputable source. Drove it 700 miles home, with no hiccups. Just been MoT’d with no advisories. It's a late 80's model, with a new chassis, bulkhead and 300 TDI fitted.
Really this is a cosmetic restoration only, with some electricals. That said, it's a 110 hi cap with the heavy duty suspension, which I may swap out for something more forgiving.
I plan to repaint it, inside and out. Upgrade the dash. Add a stereo. Replace the exhaust centre section with a straight through pipe. Take the cab roof off and replace it with a full length canvas hood, supports and roll bar. Probably some folding rear seats. Upgraded heating. Externally, give it the Heritage look and keep it as stock as poss.
Anticipate taking all the body panels off, to straighten out a few dents and paint. Underseal everything.
The only rust appears to be surface only and in very few places.
I have a nearby secure, dry warehouse (part of) with power to use but will probably have to buy all the tools and materials I need, as I've not attempted anything like this before. If I can sell this on when completed and make a decent margin, I plan to do another, bit more ambitious restoration.
I may be skills poor, but having more or less retired, am time rich. If I get into diffs, I have a mechanic and auto electrician to help.
What tools would you recommend, based on the above? I'd like to do as much as possible myself, to learn new skills and save money.
I may buy cheap or second hand tools initially and if there's a business in it, then buy better quality.
Hugely appreciate your help, suggestions , advice etc
Mike

A big 'ammer

and some spanners

200 piece halfords socket set and a grease gun, oh an a multimeter anorl.

I think I asked for that Henry!

I need a defender in me life!!

So simple

Do not purchase cheap tools,not if you value your knuckles or sanity.Decent stuff is not that dear today.

A hammer and welder

Suggest a good supply of tissues anorl as In my case I'm reduced to tears every time I attempt the simplest of jobs.

If you are starting with nothing I would second the halfords socket set. If you get that and a 3ft breaker bar along with some pliers and a hammer you will be able to do moth things.
In terms of specialist tools I would get a hub nut spanner, and a propshaft removal tool. all other specialist tools can be acquired when you need them.
Tools for painting will depend on how you plan on painting it, I rollered mine and therefore the only tools I needed were an orbital sander for the prep work, although if you plan ion spraying it you will need and appropriate compressor.

I also note that you say it is a hi-cap, but you are planning on removing the cab and fitting a full length canvas. Is it actually a hi-cap in which case this will be very challenging and require a lot of custom parts, or is it just a standard 110 pickup in which case this will be very straight forward endeavor?

You sure it's a Hicap?
If it is I've never seen one with a full length hood.
This would be a special make as the body is wider than a normal 110

Change the springs for normal 110 or progressive rears

Cheers guys. I did wonder whether a full length hood was possible. Will have to investigate.
Was told by the seller that it's a Hicap. Will have to confirm.

Jump in here if they are still available these are decent tools
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/this-seems-to-be-a-briliant-deal.334577/

Cheers Ray. Comes up 'code expired', but will Google and see if I can find another code

UlstermanAbroad said:

Cheers Ray. Comes up 'code expired', but will Google and see if I can find another code

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That's a shame.
Price is still not bad, I have quite a few Halfords tools and the pro series are pretty good, also life time guarentee

Go for a 2 piece?
Truck cab
Back body
Not seen this done before. Trouble may be holding the truck cab rear down as you cannot access this.
Will need front(sharks teeth) to hold canvas over windscreen

Never seen rear seats in these !!

As for tools Halfords. Unsure if the still doing 3 for 2 on tools etc.

It's all been said, but one tool I use very regularly, without thinking I would, is my cordless drill .. and a good set of drills, better to spend on these and get a decent set than continuously replacing cheap stuff.

It also doubles as a nut-runner, buffer, sander, wire brush, etc.

And my cordless impact wrench for taking stuff apart .. Not used as a nut-runner, it strips threads for breakfast!

@Paul D
What cordless impact wrench you got?

If it has been given a new chassis the nuts and bolts shouldn't be too rusty - what am I saying, an angle grinder and plenty of cutting discs!
+1 for the decent cordless drill and impact wrench. Have a look in Lidl - they have a decent hobby impact wrenches in stock from time to time. And it will save loads of time if you bulk buy M6 and M8 nuts/bolts/machine screws before you start. Oh and a soldering iron and heat shrink/spare connectors for the electrical stuff. If you're near Belfast and get stuck get in touch.

Hicap phill said:

@Paul D
What cordless impact wrench you got?

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Actually just a cheapie Ebay one, marked Neilsen, I think about £89.99 ish. When it came, one battery didn't work, so they sent another. I popped the 'broken' battery on the charger, two days later it came to life and I have three now. When I first got it, it wasn't very torquey, but it's ramped up now where it can remove and replace all the wheels on the Landy easily, plus many more components. Not, I hasten to add, that I tighten them with it, just use it as a nut runner for the wheel, or large, nuts, then a torque wrench.

Thanks again guys. Going to see what sales are on or on soon and
hit Halfords/Lidl etc
Zeaphod, I'm in Bushmills but I'll be in Belfast regularly from late Sept.
If there's a meet, maybe see you there, or if you're in this arse end of the galaxy,
give me a shout
Look like I might've f@%#ed up by buying a Hicap, so will have to have a rethink
about what 'look' to go for. At least I have a solid basis to work from .