Fennnnder clutch

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resto_d1

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,688
Location
Wiltshire
Hi all.

There’s a big story behind this but the clutch on my defender td5 was virtually on the floor. I thought a good bleed would fix it. I bled, bled again, then reverse bled. I’ve zero clutch now!
I’ve ordered a new master cylinder which I hope comes soon as I’m going to try and rule it out. Slave is fine and has been removed, inspected and re installed. Has anyone else had these problems? I know they’re notoriously difficult to bleed but there’s Literally nothing in the pedal now. Gutted as I haven’t even had it a week
 
Nope bleed nipples on bottom (they removed and reinstalled) which immediately causes an issue doesn’t it. I didn’t try raising the front end - that’s a good idea.
No I used an eazibleed jobby to reverse bleed on final round
 
I am a bit done in with it today. I know it’s minuscule in the grand scale of what’s going on but it winds you up doesn’t it.
Tomorrow, I’ll flip the slave cylinder around, lift front slightly and bleed from nipple due to system being full of fluid now.
Surely if master was dead it would weep?
 
neilly said:
Were they speshul?
What was the reason for them taking it off anyway?

Cheers
Click to expand...

fpr was leaking I believe causing drip onto bottom of bellhousing. The slave looked damp and to be cause of issue however when removed it was fine. New gasket went on fpr (leak still present now!) but they bled and bled and i had a clutch just very low down.
 
reminds me of Mini rear brakes with the nipple on the bottom FFS!
If there is an air bubble in the wrong place you can bleed and bleed, the fluid just goes past the bubble, it won't take it with it. The bubble needs to be under the nipple.
On this Mini, I used to get a mate to work the pedal and just cracked the connector pipe/brake cylinder, each time. Fluid went every where but it took the air with it. Provided the seals in both master and slave are sound AND the bores of the cylinders are not scored, you should get resistance. But if there is either of these two things you can get a faulty cylinder with no weeping. You can get bore honing stones, or you used to be able to. Ditto rebuild kits.
Hope you get it sorted.
 
Thanks all - your right gents, bleed nipple definitely goes above!!! Not impressed to be honest. It is a minor thing in comparison to what some are going through right now though so keeping it in perspective!
 
Just to re iterate what others have mentioned I bled mine until it was "ok" then turned it round in the drive so the front faces uphill, then bled again and you can feel the difference.
No way you can get the air out with the nipple at the bottom the cylinder just acts as an air trap.
 
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