Expedition Mechanics -Common things that can go wrong???

Can anyone advise what their most common issues/sensitivities have been when doing an expedition? What did you find failed or raised a problem the most with vehicle? What to look out for. Have seen lists of 'spares and equipment' that people bring (all goes right over our heads) and list seems endless. Is there a minimum kit list and what about tools? Want to get more familiar with what, why and when etc. and start trying to make some sense of it all. Are there de-facto (minimum) things to ensure/know before we go. We have LR Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW or are there common faults across the board which can occur. Would be great to hear views. We have Haynes Manual, have just ordered a book on Hillier's Fundamentals of Motor Vehicle Technology, are speaking to a couple of 20 year+ experienced mechanics, investigating evening class at college, will finally lift the lid on our vehicle (1st time) this weekend and attempt some simple servicing and hope to spend a day ( or two!) gaining some practical experience within a workshop environment at some stage in near future.

Essentials: Gaffa Tape, string, glue, chemical metal and threaded rod. The ability to bodge.

Rusty's not far off! an engineering ability to temp fix things until you can get to a mechanic. although i wouldnt use the word bodge. botch is more fitting. A bodger is more skilled

Cassie I am off to Morocco on saturday for my 1st overland trip and i am only taking limited spares, this due mainly to the fact that I have replaced a few parts (suspension/radiator/wheels/tyres/brakes etc allready. therefore i do not feel that i need a huge amount. The key here is to fully service the vehicle before you go. all fluids, all filters, new brake pads/hoses, radiator hoses, coolant etc. In doing this you know that worn parts will not fail on you. I have kept the old brake pads/pins and hoses for spares. some radiator hoses and the plugs off the old rad. old serpentine belt.

The other thing to realise too is that maybe you should only take what will completly imobilise you. no point taking a propshaft, because you can disconnect it and drive in diff lock to the nearest town. etc etc.

so ontop of my 2nd hand spares i am taking propshaft UJ's, hub bearings and spare filters. thats about it. however remember i am only going to Morocco and worst case senario is that i get towed to the border and use my european cover to get towed back from Spain. Where your going may be a different kettle of fish. You have to assess where the furthest point away from any major town your going to be, would a break down be life threatning or just a PITA? This should decide what spares you take. also, availbilty of parts where you are, whats around? although with airmail, DHL can have you a spare alternator within 24hrs!

As for tools. I have loaded up a tool box with all sorts! along with a 1/2"drive socket set and 2foot breaker bar. Again only take what you can actually use. no point taking a multimeter if you dont know how to use one! or hub bearings if you dont know how to change one!

Its a good thing doing them classes, should teach you alot. I learnt the hard way with my old 1985 90. pretty much everything broke and i fixed everything myself (except ignition barrel). This has stood me in good stead for my reliable 300. I think it just comes down to experience. You learn how to fix things, the right tools to use and how to handle them.

along with this, i have the contact numbers from a few guys here for advise if i need it, along with my local indi (who will send spares to Morocco if i call at any time of day) and the local LR dealer if i get really stuck!

Just remember you wont be able to take everything, and you cant prepare for everything. Just take what you can fix, what can get you to the next town and try not to double up on tools if ness.

Thats my train of thought for prep for Morocco/Western Sahara anyway. Will let you know how it goes!

HTH

G

Griffdowg covered most things
I would suggest alternator, fuses, bulbs (by law in some countries), belts, belt tensioner assy. idler pulley bearing. u/j for props. wheel bearing. brake m/cyl kit. front brake hose. air cleaner element, oil filter, (so you can always have a good quality one to fit) socket sets 1/4 3/8 and half drive
set of screwdrivers, set of combination spanners. mole grips, hammer.
kit for clutch slave cyl and master cyl. Brake fluid, oil . When you have done your maint course you will be able to think about what are things that can immobilise you immediately that you can cope with. and what it is feasable to carry with regard to space weight etc, (thats why I suggest cyl kits rather than the cylinders them selves. Some failures like s/abs you can remove and travel without till you can fix others you can get by with a bush repair i.e. lump of wood to replace broken susp spring HTSH

Don't forget to take a Universal Adjustment Tool

Thank you for the very practical and down to earth advice - all makes very good sense - from the basic every day gaffer tape & bodge to the 'only bring what you can fix' to the tools, fuses, bulbs & doubling up & minimising etc. Many of the things/bits mentioned are alien to us (T2Man - can tell you've done this before!) but phew! - had to read and re-read and then decided to start a list of everything so far mentioned to see if we can start to identify, ask more questions (drive everyone mad!) and become familiar - things to think about and do! Weekend homework! - and will start to look at vehicle (finally under the bonnet - we've done a great job at avoiding so far!) and see how far we get with identifying and servicing and seeing what we can start to immediately do ourselves. Sounds like alot of 'lateral' thinking comes into play in terms of temp fixes. 'Botching!!!!!!!' being our initial target.
Griffdowg - hope you have the most fantastic adventure in Morrocco - leaving us 'at the mo' armchair travellers in dreamstate - wishing it was us - are you camping?

Chemical metal and threaded rod looks like and is used for?

Not sure exactly what chemical metal is but i am taking a tube of evo stick and stick weld which are adhesives for all sorts. I didnt write a full list of my tool box but it includes these. I just wanted to you get thinking about how far off the tarmac you will be going and whats the worst case senario. only then can you decide on how much kit to take.

threaded rod is usefull for making up all kinds of bolt assemblies. take a few diff diameters and they are esy to store. no good without a hacksaw and file though! take them too.

Morocco - yes camping all the way rooftent is on and everything is in including a small 1man groundtent should the **** really hit the fan. we are off from portsmouth 9pm tomorrow (sat) night.

If you want a comprehensive list of things to take, just shout. will be happy to try and list everything i have taken.

G

Chemical metal is an epoxy filler which sets as hard as metal and can be drilled & tapped once is set. It great for sealing ruptured fuel tanks, exhausts & radiators.

Plastic Padding Chemical Metal Tube - Screwfix.com, Where the Trade Buys

It's known by several other trade names as well such as
MAGIC EPOXY STEEL - EPOXY INDUSTRIES (PVT) LTD.
Belzona super metal 1111 only at www.banchory4x4.com

and quite a few others as well..

Thanks Red. Ive got a JB stik weld in along with evo stick. stik weld is good for fuel tanks, rads etc. so i think i got it covered.

G

Cassie another trip diary you might to read if not done so already
Home page also for anyone else with similar intentions

There you go - chemical metal and threaded rod - have gained a bit more knowledge already & Landyman's site is really good - a catchy read as well as useful! Right, well -got Hillier's book today, have been reading Haynes - ready to start looking under bonnet over weekend and will report back shorlty.

Here you go this womans spent years driving her landy all over the globe.Loads of tips and advice

Teriann's Expedition Land Rover site

Cassie, have you got a copy of Tom Shepards Vehicle Dependant expedition guide? I picked one up a few weeks ago and its great reading. should help you lots. there are also plenty of kit lists inc. tools to take etc etc.

HTH

G

GDowg probably long gone by now and in France - (lucky s*d!). T Sheppard books no longer on print and have seen copies going at around £100. Not willing to pay so much. Kicking myself a bit as saw a copy at one of the LR centres recently but didn't buy. Teriann's site interesting - thanks Redhand. Promise to look at LR tomorrow - keep chickening out - have this great fear for some reason - am writing list now of things to check etc. (prolonging the agony!)

OK - had a look but can't make everything out as the diagrams in the manuals don't match what's under the bonnet. Have worked some out and made some notes. Need to read more and go back again and have a look.

Silly question - wondered as we need to know every inch of the vehicle - and so we know exactly the layout etc. that we're working with - do you think it's worth us investing in a more specific workshop manual i.e. Land Rover Defender Diesal 300Tdi 1996-98 Workshop Manual (our vehicle is 1998). £40+ - worth the investment?
Thanks

Try and get a friend who is a mechanic to give you a vehicle tour , and try and arrange that when it needs a service etc you can work along with the mech doing it. Hands on you will pick up far more than trying to book learn . Mechanics requires a tactile sense, other wise you end up over tightening or leaving things loose. The haynes manual should give you tech info that you need, anything further will be outside your capabilities (probably) so save the money JMHO

OK - would like to do a bit of both. Try to work out identification of the basics (with help of book) and then bring to the mechanic to assist in advising if correct, provide a more detailed tour and then help us with 'how to' service correctly etc.
Found a CD on eBay based (supposedly) on the book for £2.50 - will wait to see if provides what we're looking for. Meantime, have posted a question about engine identification in Defender section

Every thing can go wrong read below.....

We drove Ireland to Cape T in a really crappy rusty Range rover (ford trasit engine). I would recomend a fairly comprehensive set of tools the haynes manal and a bunch of back up spares as listed already - not necessarily because of a breakdown in the desert but more so for availability of having the part. Generally, speaking you will find bush mechanic or a friendly tow wherever you are. For the more remote sections of our trip we joined up with other overlanders (where there was no sign of a road in hundreds of miles) for safely and I would recommend this regardless of what state your vehicle is in unless you have a sat phone. Here is list of what broke/failed on our trip.
Ireland - failing gearbox (bought replacement in uk ebay on way)
France and Switzerland - Front wheel oil seal
Greece - Fr wheel steering Ball joint
Turkey - Fr steering arm bushings disintegrated
Syria - Accelerator cable snapped
Egypy - Horn stopped working
Sudan - Fr shock rubbers, Ehaust broke off, Rad mounting collapsed, rad leaked, 1 Engine mount disintegrated.
Ethiopia - Fr steer arm bush again, overheating engine on hills (had to stop), Injection pump accel arm came undone.
Kenya - Clutch hydraulic pipe perished, Exhaust fell off again
Tanzania - cracked chassis and rears axle ball joint mount failure
Zambia - Bearing failure in gearbox overdrive box (fairly overdrive)
Namibia - cracked rear brake pipe. Starter motor brushes worn out
South Africa - Timimg belt tension pulley bearing failed (nearly killed engine)
Tanzania (again) Could not select reverse gear, clutch slave cylinder failed.
Kenya - Electrical fuel cutoff switch solenoid malfunction.
(these are the ones I remember - there were more)

Now obviously we had a lot of "technical" problems but I only needed a tow for the timing belt incident and that "fix" only cost €75 including the tow (most expensive repair on trip) and had I paid attention to the screeching 500 miles earlier I probably could have prevented it.

Needless to say at the end of the trip after covering 35,000 miles in 11 months the Range Rover was in perfect working order and was parked up in Zambia. Unfortunately, she was driven a few months later (not by me) and her engine was killed with a snapped timing belt.
To be honest we didn't really expect the vehicle to make the trip and our attitude was to drive as far as we could until she died. The upside of african repairs is that they can be incredibly cheap and this is what kept us going. I reckon what caused a lot of our breakages on top of the bad roads and rusty vehicle was the fact that we totally took too much stuff and overloaded everything causing a strain on all the components.

Lessons learned - Less is more. (you don't need all those cooking pots, backup stoves, awnings, etc. Good set of tools a must. Africans can do great repairs really cheaply if you monitor them. Other overlanders we encoutered were very friendly to assisst us if needed and we found ourselves rescuing others too.

When we started I had very little knowledge of mechanics - its all about having the right attitude and telling yourself you can fix this. (or pay someone else to). Upside after this trip is I know a Classic Ranger Rover backwards and now have two more and would do the next trip in one again (after winning the lotto).

R