Excessive Clutch Pedel free play

HI
Ive tried to adjust my clutch pedal today on my 1995 defender as per the workshop manual. The reason for me doing this was due to finding how much easier and smoother 2nd gear was to select when the engine was cold with the floor mat removed, in comparision to the floor mat under the pedal.

Anyway, i went ahead and followed the workshop manual to the letter. Slackened off the locknuts either side of the pedal trunion (what the push rod goes through).
Then adjusted the bolt on the back of the pedal box to give me a pedal height of 140mm. All good so far!

Now comes to the bit either my head or the land rover arent cooperating. In order to get the 6mm of free play at the pedal, the nuts either side of the trunion have to be snug? Is this correct?

Because at the moment, i have the nuts fully tight up to the trunion, and wound closest to the end of the push rod as possible (to gain max stroke), and i still get 30mm of travel at the pedal. If i adjust the trunion closer to the bulkhead/MC then the pedal height just reduces to the floor, but i still get 30mm of free play.

Am i doing something wrong, Or is the MC not providing resistance for the first part of the stroke, resulting in a large amount of free play?

(Gears change perfectly when engine warm, biting point very high, recent gearbox oil change mtf94)

cheers

Is the push rod itself threaded in the master cylinder? Is that how the free play is adjusted?

you are looking for free play with nuts tightened, free play is just to ensure theres no pressure from pedal on m/c when pedal is not depressed, poor fluid will give greater travel ,high biting point suggest worn clutch

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

Is the push rod itself threaded in the master cylinder? Is that how the free play is adjusted?

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no ,adjustment is effective length of the rod

jamesmartin said:

no ,adjustment is effective length of the rod

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So how do i go about getting rid of that free play then James? Surely i cant be perceiving it this wrongly and making it so difficult.

The distance the trunion/pedal arm is from the master cylinder adjusts the free play?

it does ,which is when the pedal pushes on m/c not when any noticeable thing happens to the clutch, if your biting point is high clutch is worn, unless someone has fitted incorrect parts , with a new clutch a little pedal movement is needed the more wear the greater travel is needed

jamesmartin said:

it does ,which is when the pedal pushes on m/c not when any noticeable thing happens to the clutch, if your biting point is high clutch is worn, unless someone has fitted incorrect parts , with a new clutch a little pedal movement is needed the more wear the greater travel is needed

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Arghh typical. I knew it wouldnt be anything simple haha. Thanks for the replies James

The first bit of the travel on the master cylinder does nothing at all for 30mm, Its like there is slop/play in the MC itself, then once that free play is taken up, the bite can be felt. I thought the slave cylinder might be not fully returning, not allowing the fluid back to the MC hense why i have such a free range of movement. But this is a total guess!

Would a clutch bleed benefit me at all to try and get that 2nd gear when cold?
Or is there nothing that can be done other than replacing the worn clutch. Im still not convinced its adjusted properly, but if the pedal height is set correct, theres nothing else i can do!