Other EPB's

Handbrake shoes benefit from a few clicks on the handbrake lever every now and then, at low speed...cleans the drum and keeps everything bedded so a little use like that will induce wear.

That's the analogue way of old at least.

myfirstl322 said:

Handbrake shoes benefit from a few clicks on the handbrake lever every now and then, at low speed...cleans the drum and keeps everything bedded so a little use like that will induce wear.

That's the analogue way of old at least.

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Careful not to cook the transfer box output seal!

Grrrrrr said:

Careful not to cook the transfer box output seal!

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I was thinking more of newer contrivances wot have handbrake shoes in the rear discs.

myfirstl322 said:

I was thinking more of newer contrivances wot have handbrake shoes in the rear discs.

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My Jag just has discs, pads and some weird winding mechanism that takes forever to wind in when the rear pads need replacing.

Grrrrrr said:

My Jag just has discs, pads and some weird winding mechanism that takes forever to wind in when the rear pads need replacing.

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The MR2 handbrake operates on the rear disks via the calliper and the pistons also have to be wound back when fitting new pads. It's very effective as an emergency brake.

My Disco3 has the shoes in a drum thar are incorperated with the rear discs and have to be adjusted just like you used to in the ols days with a screwdriver in a hole and the shoe s are moved in and out with an adjustable rod

ovalandrover said:

My Disco3 has the shoes in a drum thar are incorperated with the rear discs and have to be adjusted just like you used to in the ols days with a screwdriver in a hole and the shoe s are moved in and out with an adjustable rod

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Same brakes and handbrake shoes as the early L322 but operated by the electric servo instead of a handbrake leaver. But just like anything else they need stripping cleaning, lubricating and adjusting ever so often. To maintain function. If the servo fails it will usually be down to bad maintenance of the shoes and their mechanism causing over winding of the servo.

A few photo's of the innards for those who might be interested.
If anyone wants the circuit board, they are welcome to it.

Thanks for pics

Doesn’t actually look seized up?
So are the white plastic/nylon gears US?

J

marjon said:

Thanks for pics

Doesn’t actually look seized up?
So are the white plastic/nylon gears US?

J

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The threaded part was seized into the brass section because it had over wound, I freed it off.
The gears look OK at a quick glance but no longer mesh fully and made a lovely shrieking noise with power applied

Ok so bad adjustment at the drums, so it over wound to the stop and carried on.

Seems strange with all the other electronics they don’t sense the motor struggling with force sensor readings, and shut it down.
Hey ho.

It’s one thing to look at drawings and read how they work, but always better (for me anyway) to physical see it.
Thanks.
J

marjon said:

Ok so bad adjustment at the drums, so it over wound to the stop and carried on.

Seems strange with all the other electronics they don’t sense the motor struggling with force sensor readings, and shut it down.
Hey ho.

It’s one thing to look at drawings and read how they work, but always better (for me anyway) to physical see it.
Thanks.
J

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Sensing motor current or even a limit switch would be an improvement.

That’s how they do electric window, isnt it so what’s the problem?

Oh I keep forgetting the JLR think tank don’t seem to think the same way everyday. Maybe the EPB was a Friday job and they all left early and didn’t quite finish it

J

marjon said:

That’s how they do electric window, isnt it so what’s the problem?

Oh I keep forgetting the JLR think tank don’t seem to think the same way everyday. Maybe the EPB was a Friday job and they all left early and didn’t quite finish it

J

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LOL
It's time that JLR removed the R from Rover and called them Range Overs. That's Over sized, Over weight, Over powered, Over complicated and Over priced, but not Overly reliable