P38A Engine turns over but not starting

That track is burnt out, so the simple fix is to solder a jumper wire into replace it. Get a bit of single strand wire or alarm wire will do as its low current/voltage then solder one end to one side of that track and the other end to the other find the strongest place. Job done, good call on this who suggested it ??

biketeacherdave said:

That track is burnt out, so the simple fix is to solder a jumper wire into replace it. Get a bit of single strand wire or alarm wire will do as its low current/voltage then solder one end to one side of that track and the other end to the other find the strongest place. Job done, good call on this who suggested it ??

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I'm going to look for some alarm wire & solder that in place, then refit without the old maf connected to see if it tries to start, hopefully that should show if I'm getting more than ONE pulse of the injectors.
Don't want to connect the existing maf in case it is faulty & tries to short the ecu again! I have another maf on order.

biketeacherdave said:

That track is burnt out, so the simple fix is to solder a jumper wire into replace it. Get a bit of single strand wire or alarm wire will do as its low current/voltage then solder one end to one side of that track and the other end to the other find the strongest place. Job done, good call on this who suggested it ??

Click to expand...

If I have to get another engine ecu, will it need reprogramming? if so does anyone know how to do it?

I think you will be fine with the old ecu good idea trying it without the maf it should start ok

Don't try anything with the dodgy maf. It will blow something further on from your repair buggering the ecu full stop. Get the replacement secondhand maf Connected replace the repaired ecu...job done. Ecu are cheap but will need security sync.While your checking check the cam sensor and wiring not easy tthoughGood luck jb

Also check what that track goes to using the ecu pin out.

And when it's soldered check continuity back to the pin.

Good call indeed.

johnnyb70 said:

And when it's soldered check continuity back to the pin.

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OK, soldered a piece of alarm wire in between two points on the circuit board, but still will not start!!
Just cranks over fine at a good speed, only pulses Once on initial turn over.
Tried a Snap-on computer on it, which only shows 2 faults- 1 when the maf was disconnected, the other being a lambda sensor.
Went through all the ecu's but not faults found.
Sounds like I will need to get another engine ECU, but don't know how to sync it to the car??
Thanks again for your suggestion, it did highlight a problem.

biketeacherdave said:

I think you will be fine with the old ecu good idea trying it without the maf it should start ok

Click to expand...

OK, soldered a piece of alarm wire in between two points on the circuit board, but still will not start!!
Just cranks over fine at a good speed, only pulses Once on initial turn over.
Tried a Snap-on computer on it, which only shows 2 faults- 1 when the maf was disconnected, the other being a lambda sensor.
Went through all the ecu's but not faults found.
Sounds like I will need to get another engine ECU, but don't know how to sync it to the car??

johnnyb70 said:

And when it's soldered check continuity back to the pin.

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Do you know what pin it is??

It definitely goes to the red plug btw after that you will need a continuity tester.

johnnyb70 said:

It definitely goes to the red plug btw after that you will need a continuity tester.

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Thanks, that saves me checking the other 2 !

Does anyone know what needs to be done to reprogramme / sync a replacement engine ECU ?
Would a Navocom or sync mate do it?
Anyone in my area have one?

storm said:

Does anyone know what needs to be done to reprogramme / sync a replacement engine ECU ?
Would a Navocom or sync mate do it?
Anyone in my area have one?

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Yes, that's the sort of kit you need. Have you tried the International Rescue map?

Grrrrrr said:

Yes, that's the sort of kit you need. Have you tried the International Rescue map?

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yes, could not see anyone local, so was hoping there may be someone whos not listed.

Pin 16 is the maf that's with the smaller black plug on the left. The middle row of the red plug 4th from the left. The ground (multi) is bottom row rh end plug. So pin 1 is top r pin 13 is middle left etc. Search gomog by Poole PDF
Jb

johnnyb70 said:

Pin 16 is the maf that's with the smaller black plug on the left. The middle row of the red plug 4th from the left. The ground (multi) is bottom row rh end plug. So pin 1 is top r pin 13 is middle left etc. Search gomog by Poole PDF
Jb

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I follow where pin 16 is, but a bit confused on the ground pin. Bottom row on the r/h black plug but which pin?

Sorry that read really badly the ground or multi sensor is pin 36 on the red plug. Seriously search gomog by Poole it's all in there. I remember it's red and black wires. If you look all sensors that go back to that pin have one red and black they are all spliced together in that piece of corrugated cable under the alternator. The maf certainly does. The blown track isn't the multi sensor ground I think. The pins are numbered 1 to 36 continuously from rh top to lh bottom.

Hi mate did u manage to get your ecu sync done yet