Freelander 1 Engine noise

Hi guys,
I am new to the forum, I have had my td4 landrover freelander 56 plate for almost 3 years. Spent almost every penny I have on the bloody thing from the dreaded hp fuel pump, to clutch and flywheel.
My jeep started making some noise almost 2 weeks ago, I towed it home not to damage the engine further please can any of you differentiate the noise in the video, dont know if I am right in assuming that maybe the timing has slipped or something? Almost sounds jingly or sort of metal colliding.

Thanks in advance and merry Xmas guys.
Josh

Possibly the crank pulley has delaminated. Look for sliver flecks of metal around the crank pulley, which will throw out from metal to metal contact.

Oh and it's a Landrover, not a Jeep.

I will take a look for that tomorrow, thanks.

HI Josh.
video is very short you need to let it run for at least a minute or more, but from what you can hear in the short time sounds like the crank pulley, a friend of mine whom owns a R40 had the same trouble last week, after a certain time anything from 100,000 up to 200,000 the pulley can fail and delaminate, the rubbers go weak and fail thus you get the clatter of the two pulleys colliding.

Only fit a good pulley after market ones fail in a very short time, Corteco are the best to fit, link below, they can be purchased else where as well, the link is nothing to do with me its just the seller all the Rover 75 diesel M47 engine owners use.

personally i would also change the belts at the same time, special tool is required to hold the crank while removing it and a proper procedure required when fitting the new pulley.

FOR ROVER 75 MGZT FREELANDER 2.0 CDTi TD4 CORTECO ENGINE CRANK SHAFT PULLEY 3358960597847 | eBay

Link for the belts
Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Land Rover Freelander Rover 75 - 5PK2030 | eBay

Gates V-Ribbed Belts Fits Freelander 75 Impreza Legacy MG ZT - 5PK870 | eBay

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Thanks Arctic 2 I think you are right, I have inspected the car and can see metal fillings from the failure of the pulley. The video is very short I was concerned that permanent damage may occur leaving it run to long.
People such as you are what makes forums like these great, the time you have taken to write such a detailed response and upload the pictures and links is very kind.
Best Xmas wishes and hope you have an enjoyable new year, atleast as good as it can be in the current times.

Just a tip, don't be tempted to use a rattle gun or impact wrench on the crank pulley. The crankshaft is cast iron and will fracture!!!

andyfreelandy said:

Just a tip, don't be tempted to use a rattle gun or impact wrench on the crank pulley. The crankshaft is cast iron and will fracture!!!

Click to expand...

I seen a video online of someone using a socket and a ratchet strap to hold it in place whilst he turned the engine over. I was mortified at that thought. Thank you for the input it is greatfully recieved.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRANK-SH...-/264384454397?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

Probably worthwhile unless you can borrow one

Joshnic said:

I seen a video online of someone using a socket and a ratchet strap to hold it in place whilst he turned the engine over. I was mortified at that thought. Thank you for the input it is greatfully recieved.

Click to expand...

I used a similar technique to release a very stubborn pulley nut from my Hillman Avenger GT about 30 years ago. I actually had to strap a breaker bar with correct socket to the front of the engine, then crank the engine over so the breaker bar hit the ground as the crankshaft turned. It took 5 or 6 attempts, but the large bolt unscrewed eventually.
The crankshaft on that was also cast iron, but is about twice as thick, as the one used on the TD4.

On the TD4, you need the special tool to hold the pulley still while releasing and tightening the bolt, or crankshaft failure is a real possibility.