Engine management failure light??????

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Mo2

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" Violins playing" We always wanted a freelander so saved and saved and bought our baby 8 days ago and there was instant love in abundance for her. my love is being tested though and at a very early start to our relationship I feel I may crack.

The problem I beleive was already with the car when we bought it ( second hand) and the fella we bought it off surprise suprise has disconnected his mobile. Whenever I take her over 2000 revs the engine management light comes on and I lose major power she holds herself right back the light only came on occasionally but is nearly now a constant occurence. She is now a drive way ornament as I am to heart broken to drive her. I have taken it to several garages and every one has a different opinion. So it leads me to you folks to beg for your experience as I am lost. I have had it put on a computer and no faults showed up. Here is what has been suggested to the garages by me so far!!!

1) The pipes from the intercooler to the engine and the other pipe out the other end changed as there was a slight nick in the intercooler pipe. So presumed loss of air. this however seems to have made things worse the light now stays on most the time as opposed to every time I went over 2000 revs. This cost me £100.00

2) Cataylictic convertor did not get price as he seemed very unsure.

3) Flywheel?????? - £650.00

4) Reset the light!!!! - £50.00

5) Clutch - (although changing gears fine)- £450.00

I am taking it into a much respected local garage on wednesday but a heads up would be nice as the suggestions above from different mechanics are just blowing my mind.

sorry my first post has to be a problem!!!!
 
Hello Mo2,

Check the position of your timming tensioner (hair pin thing) there are two settings one for a new belt (mid position of the marker on the tensioner and one for a used belt (bottom of the marker)

I could not beleive the dif once I reset this, all the managment lights cleared, and power was restored.

Cheers Dutch RR
 
Hi Dutch RR

Thanks so much for your reply where will I find the timming tensioner??? Thanks Mo2
 
Mo2 said:
1) The pipes from the intercooler to the engine and the other pipe out the other end changed as there was a slight nick in the intercooler pipe. So presumed loss of air. this however seems to have made things worse the light now stays on most the time as opposed to every time I went over 2000 revs. This cost me £100.00

There are 3 pipes which could be affected, short elbow rhs of engine, longer elbow lhs from engine to intercooler then longer curvy pipe under short elbow from intercoolerback to engine. A split or nick in any of these will make itself known by leaving oily residue and a whistling sound when accelerating.

2) Cataylictic convertor did not get price as he seemed very unsure.
unlikely

3) Flywheel?????? - £650.00
even more unlikely

4) Reset the light!!!! - £50.00
no point, you know it's not driving right so it'll only make you feel better then come back

5) Clutch - (although changing gears fine)- £450.00
unlikely

I am taking it into a much respected local garage on wednesday but a heads up would be nice as the suggestions above from different mechanics are just blowing my mind.

sorry my first post has to be a problem!!!!
Click to expand...

Truly sorry to hear your woes, and really hope it comes good for you. bugs me to **** when mine's not right
 
Ahh thanks Optimus Prime!!!
Mondo it is a TD4 with a bmw engine.

As soon as I had written my origional post went out to check her and she is worse the light is now on all the time and she is chugging like a tractor, it vibrates really bad and i have next to no power she is limping along, my baby is fading :-(
 
if light is on all the time, it will have a readable fault code. if the garage is up to scratch, they'll get the fault code and suss the cause first go.

if not, get the fault code from them, and there is a list on this forum which tells you nearly all the fault codes.
 
Tensioner lives under the timming belt cover, on the LHS of the engine, remove top cover (about six 8mm bolts) looking in between the belt you will see a black roller wheel, with a hair spring round a small support bolt, the metal plate connecting to the roller has a forked end, for a new belt the running position is middle of fork to the end of the hair spring, for a used belt I believe it should be at the top of the fork, to adjust you will need a hex key and a 13mm socket (the correct Torque for the 13mm bolt is 25Nm after adjustment) if you cannot or do not have Torque rench, let the garage do the setting for you.

Cheers Dutch RR
 
Thanks for the advice went out to check her started her up and she refused first two attempts and third time she kicked in reluctantly so chuggged my way to the garage, he thinks it could be the head gasket at worse but bearing in mind it is a diesel he thinks that would be unlikely (fingers crossed) if it is the head gasket what am I looking at?? and if not is there a more common problem along this line?
 
Well its happy days my baby is back. Just thought I would post to say what was wrong in case anyone else comes accross this problem. It was none of what the other garages said it was actually the injectors all four were reconditioned and came to a cost of £340.00 she is running like a dream. Rally glad I took it to a good garage because all the others were wrong and I could have easily been out of pocket to the tune of anything from £600 to £1800. Thanks for the advice offered :) :) :)
 
Glad you got sorted out, I've owned my TD4 Auto for about 3 months & it drives nicely touch wood (after replacing crankcase breather & fitting egr bypass kit). Just out of interest, how many miles had yours done before needing the injectors rebuilt?
 
Hi chromiumuk it has done 93,000 miles and is a diesel. The mechanic said it was quite a common problem with them and every once in a while I should put some injector cleaner into the tank to keep it all ship shape. Im glad to have it back!!!

Dont know if its worth mentioning but I decded to get a few new bits for her nudge bar, light protectors etc... and duckworths landrover are having a sale on their parts nearly half price or more the website is Duckworth Land Rover Parts: Land rover spare part, Land rover part uk, Genuine land rover part.
 
Mo2 said:
Hi chromiumuk it has done 93,000 miles and is a diesel. The mechanic said it was quite a common problem with them and every once in a while I should put some injector cleaner into the tank to keep it all ship shape. Im glad to have it back!!!

Thanks for that, I did put some Lucas cleaner in when I serviced mine, but will do it more frequently now after what you have said. I hope you now have a long happy time with your Freelander.
Click to expand...
 
good price at £340, I paid £125 per injector, but tricky as garage had mine in bits and I needed it back real urgently. BUT they were spot on on the rest of the labour charges, and I couldn't fault them at all for the service they provided. not many garages ring you twice a day giving you updates
 
Hi guys,

Similar prob just started with mine. Engine Man light comes on intermitent, however just started more frequently. Car drives fine most of the time but when on motorway or pulling away a bit quicker sometimes loss of power and car shakes. However, ive got a 01 1.8......injectors still?

Cheers

Sharpe
 
sharpe said:
Hi guys,

Similar prob just started with mine. Engine Man light comes on intermitent, however just started more frequently. Car drives fine most of the time but when on motorway or pulling away a bit quicker sometimes loss of power and car shakes. However, ive got a 01 1.8......injectors still?

Cheers

Sharpe
Click to expand...

Stick some redex in the tank, i think the injector one has the green label. It's worth a shot, and if your injectors are fouled this will clean them up.
 
Thanks, tried once already, worth trying a few times before exploring other avenues?? Just in case anyone was wondering about my shaking landy....it back with vengence......even after prop shaft done. Back to drawing board...hey hey. Def coming from somewhere in transmission though.

Sharpe
 
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