Series 2 Engine keeps dying

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Grandvizier

New Member
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3
Hi, my Series 2A petrol Landie has developed a new fault. She starts fine with the choke, then when warmed up and choke pushed in she won't idle - just dies. I can start her again, but as soon as I take my foot off the throttle, she dies again.
There's always been a bit of a tendency to stall, but nothing like this. Basically, she's not driveable, which is awkward, because I'm trying to sell her!
Any suggestions? Stale fuel? Air filter?
Thanks, guys.
 
Hi, my Series 2A petrol Landie has developed a new fault. She starts fine with the choke, then when warmed up and choke pushed in she won't idle - just dies. I can start her again, but as soon as I take my foot off the throttle, she dies again.
There's always been a bit of a tendency to stall, but nothing like this. Basically, she's not driveable, which is awkward, because I'm trying to sell her!
Any suggestions? Stale fuel? Air filter?
Thanks, guys.
your carby must have a blockage, and it wont idle, does it blow out a lot of black smoke when you have the throttle open a bit, if so id say your jets are clogged and it will need to be striped and cleaned up and she should be as good as new again.
Tony.
 
What kind of carb do you have? Sounds like the idle jet is blocked, a problem I've just had. Have you had misfiring problems as well or backfiring? Its the same issue. Depending on carb type you can remove the idle jet and clean / replace. Whatever your carb (Zenith/ Solex/ Weber) there's loads of info online on this type of problem....and on setting the idling speed. Do not dick around with the mixture setting, that's a different thing. For completeness, check your points gap, spark plugs, rotor arm etc. for gaps and cleanliness. Also check the crankcase breather system and vacuum advance pipe connections to the carb. Take off the air intake vent and have a butchers at the choke flap (work the choke mechanism by hand to see if it opens/ closes OK). Oh and clean the air filter with petrol and fill with new oil. If you need a new idle jet they cost diddly.
 
Start it up with air filter hose removed from carb and with a raised Rev level block the air intake fully with the palm of your hand this often clears blocked jet as engine suction tries to find air
 
Thanks for all the advice. I'm not sure what sort of carb it is - is there an easy way to tell? I've got these out of the carb, but only one looks like a jet and it's not blocked. Should there be more?
That sounds a good trick, Blackburn!
 

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They do not look like Weber parts, merely taking them out and cleaning them could help. A Weber idle jet is short, wider and stamped with the number 50. Were those parts covered in sooty deposit? A Weber carb is stamped with the name and model (345) on the side of the bowl facing out the way from the engine. It would also have a silver serial number tab bolted onto the carb just above it to the left. If it's not a Weber is must have a makers mark or serial number somewhere on the body of the carb. If its not a Weber, (often used on Series 3 as an aftermarket fit), its likely that its a Zenith. Do you have a workshop manual? If not as suggested do a Google search under these names to see what images and pdf's you can find, your bound to see the carb you have.
 
Just wanted to thank everyone for your help. I've cleaned the carb, including the idle jet, and she ticks over fine now. In fact, I was able to slow the idle speed a bit, now the jet is clear. It is a Weber and I found in the end that the idle jet screws in the side - you don't need to take the carb apart to get at it. Thanks again.
 
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