Engine dilemma for classic RR

Hi all, I'm new to this site. Let me tell you my dilemma.-
I drove a '83 Rangie to Cape Town last year and turned around and got it as far as Zambia where the 2.5 Transit engine' timing belt snapped and "Killed" the engine. This was fitted to a 4speed LT95 gearbox with an adapter plate.
Now I plan to get it back on the road and do more expedition exploring and am planning to ship a replacement engine to Zambia.
Unfortunately I have a choice-
1. I bought a Nissan 3.5l non turbo engine and auto-box(no transfer box) off ebay and am considering sending this. (was described as out of a ranger rover)
2. I have been offer a very good condition 2.5TurboD engine (I think it is an italian engine) from a Rover 825 and am also considering this.
My questions are:
a. Will the auto box on the nissan engine fit to the transfer box from the LT95?
b.Will the 2.5TurboD fit to the existing LT95 Gearbox?

I hope I've got my dilemma across without too much confusion.
Cheers Richard

a) LT95 is a complete unit with main and transfer boxes together. I've seen a split LT95 transfer case fitted to another main box with an adapter plate (do not remember which box, but it was manual). You need to be doing some serious engineering.

b) dunno. Is it a VM diesel? These were fitted at least to LT77 to my knowledge.

Thanks TimoV,
I couldn't remember if the LT95 was a complete unit or not. This means its's unlikely I will be able to use the auto box (with no transfer box) on the Nissan engine. Do you think the adapter plate (to connect to the auto box) that is on the Nissan engine will match up to the LT95 Gearbox?
Or could I tranfer the bellhousing from the auto box over to the LT95 Gearbox?

Yeah the Rover engine is the VM2.5 diesel. Any idea if this will match up to the LT95 gear box?
Thanks Richard

Richardq said:

Thanks TimoV,
I couldn't remember if the LT95 was a complete unit or not. This means its's unlikely I will be able to use the auto box (with no transfer box) on the Nissan engine.

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What is the box? ZF4HP22? If so you can always find yourself a LT230 transfer box. They should be readily available on Ebay (or rebuilt at e.g. Ascroft transmissions, if you're in UK). I think that this is the easiest way IF it actually is a ZF4HP22. However, ZF and Africa...

Do you think the adapter plate (to connect to the auto box) that is on the Nissan engine will match up to the LT95 Gearbox?

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I don't know, but I doubt it.

Or could I tranfer the bellhousing from the auto box over to the LT95 Gearbox?

Click to expand...

No - bellhousings are different with LT95 bellhousing having clutch and stuff related to that.

Yeah the Rover engine is the VM2.5 diesel. Any idea if this will match up to the LT95 gear box?

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They say that this engine is not reliable - overheats easily. I have no experience on this, so I do not comment on that. However, my friend is rebuilding a RRC with LT95 and VM2.5 TDIC. I'll ask how he fitted them.

BUT: Your car being in Africa, and knowing the conditions and possibilities and standards for service there (I've been to East Africa several times due to my work - ecologist). I think I'd stick with the Nissan and try to fit LT95 into it, since the box is bulletproof and I think that the engine might be more reliable than the VM.

Buy a Series III! Those guys can fix anything simple enough.

EDIT: almost forgot 2 things you should consider
1. VM for a Rover 825 might have different style camshaft than needed for the RR to be nicely driveable
2. The front floor of the car is different with LT95 (older) and ZF4HP22/LT77+LT230. It might be difficult to fit the latter into a car with the older floor - needs cutting and welding.

Sorry about my English - not native you know.

Hi,
Yes the Auto box is a ZF44P-22. So I am missing an LT230 transfer box for it. You are right about questioning the logic of having an automatic in Africa. I would have similar worries. I am also thinking Nissan to LT95 is a better solution. I suppose i need to investigate how easy it will be to join these together.

I am very interested to find out how your friend manages with his VM2.5-LT95 project.

Thanks again
Richard,

The engine and the gear box are mated together. It has standard LT95 V8 bellhousing with an adaptor plate (factory made, he thought it was made by Janspeed). I guess these can be found also in UK.

He also thought that the Nissan with LT95 would be the safest option. I'd figure this option out rigorously.

We fitted the heads to the VM last night - very interesting job I might add. The engine is high. The heads are in a very high position even though the body has been raised by about 2". Without the lift there would not be too much clearance between the bulkhead and the rocker cover of cylinder 4. I'd suppose that the height of the engine might contribute it being unreliable. You might get airlocks very easily in the heads IF coolant level was even a bit low. Possible solution: raise the radiator as high as you can get it - so that the possible air gathers to the top of the radiator and does not stay inside the engine. Let's see when we fire the engine up - IF we fire...

EDIT: The friend thought that the camshaft is the same for RR and Rover.

I run a RR with a Nissan RD28t six cylinder turbo diesel, mated to an LT95 so may have some observations pertinent.

The Nissan will fit but is tight on the front X member fairly tight up to the radiator, but it fits fine. The LT95 appears to be the best box to handle the torque as long as the gearbox does not get filled with EP90 gearoil and ruin the oil pump. This happens a lot it seems I bought it with very noisy layshaft bearings as at some time it obviously had EP 90 put in and the oil pump had stripped the cogs. I havehad two other boxes before I found a good one and was able to change the gearbox oil pump before the bearings died as that too had EP90 in it. These gearboxes should either have synthetic or 20/50 engine oil in them.

As far as comparison the Nissan will be astounding compared with the Transit engine, smooth, quieter and much more powerful !

Hi Chris V8
thanks for the advice, We were a bit clueless when we set off on our trip with the transit engine. We thought they were everywhere here so parts would be most likely available in africa too. How wrong we were although we got great economy and 25k miles reliability before the belt went. I have to say those South African Boer mechanics are bloody geniuses though. I had the following experience earlier on in my trip:
Engine had deleoped a whining screeching sound for about a month and I guessed it was maybe waterpump bearings so when I did hear a strange whipping sound (as if it was throwing a fan belt) I pulled over, engine idled very badly so I switched off. I investigated on side of road and discovered timing belt very loose - disaster!! Flagged a passing car (basically in middle of nowhere in "dangerous" South Africa and hitched a lift to next town after hiding RR behind some trees.
After organising tow and a overnight sleep etc I found the bearings in the pulley that tensions the timings belt were shot and there was a possibility I had recked the engine. A quick trip to the local motor factor shop and I ordered a new pulley . Next day pulley arrives - wrong one! Discover that 2.5 di transit engine has NEVER been imported into SA. ****! This could be weeks in getting the part DHL to me. The shop guy recommends I see a man who does bearings... Maybe he has an idea. Bearing man comes up with idea to slap two bearings together, weld new shaft to bracket etc.. He recommends welder guy.. I go to welder guy and he says no prob - 1 hr, £10 perfect part done so I fit it to the transit engine and pray the timing hasn't been knocked out so I try to turn engine by hand. Disaster! the engine will not turn over, what now? I have never messed with engine timing, no manual, and I could't even see timing marks on crankshaft pulley etc. (All done under a tree beside Spar shop). Afican luck strikes - 2 guys pull up in overalls and ask if I need help. They tell me they are diesel truck (massive rigs) mechanics and as all their trucks are on the road they are bored and would like to help me - no charge. So they tow me back to the huge shed and spend 6 hrs setting the timing The only way they could find Top dead centre was using a piece of wire sticking into the cylinder through an injector hole) and pretty much fixed everything else on the RR. I got another 10k miles before belt did snap and bent all the push rods and snapped the cam shaft. My trip was well and truly over by then (ran out of funds) so it wasn't too much of a disaster.