EKA Lock out procedure for 1999 P38

What year is yours?

Could be one of the microswitches on the door is acting up so it cannot take the EKA. Can you get the driver's window down and use the sill button to lock / unlock as you turn the key in the lock? Might help.

If you ever get to this, buried at the bottom of Mystery's post...

When the message display is blank, with ignition off:
R Rover P38
Motronic
Bottom right green arrow to BECM button
Select it
Bottom right hand arrow to Utility
Select it
Type your 4 digit EKA into the box
Hit disarm
That's it
Have a practice using the emulator. You can't do it all, but it'll help you get the idea
When you've finished, use your Nano to test all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch so you know they're all good (or not)

Grrrrrr said:

What year is yours?

Could be one of the microswitches on the door is acting up so it cannot take the EKA. Can you get the driver's window down and use the sill button to lock / unlock as you turn the key in the lock? Might help.

Click to expand...

It’s a1999 but with the Thor V8.

Guess it could be the mircoswitches. I had the spare key repaired the other year but have never been able to get it to sync or work with EKA.

Orangebean said:

If you ever get to this, buried at the bottom of Mystery's post...

When the message display is blank, with ignition off:
R Rover P38
Motronic
Bottom right green arrow to BECM button
Select it
Bottom right hand arrow to Utility
Select it
Type your 4 digit EKA into the box
Hit disarm
That's it
Have a practice using the emulator. You can't do it all, but it'll help you get the idea
When you've finished, use your Nano to test all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch so you know they're all good (or not)

Click to expand...

Thanks. Didn’t know about the emulator. Will give it a go tomorrow morning and report back.

Orangebean said:

If you ever get to this, buried at the bottom of Mystery's post...

When the message display is blank, with ignition off:
R Rover P38
Motronic
Bottom right green arrow to BECM button
Select it
Bottom right hand arrow to Utility
Select it
Type your 4 digit EKA into the box
Hit disarm
That's it
Have a practice using the emulator. You can't do it all, but it'll help you get the idea
When you've finished, use your Nano to test all of the microswitches in the drivers door latch so you know they're all good (or not)

Click to expand...

Only works on BECMs PAM v36 or better will not work on earlier versions.

wammers said:

Only works on BECMs PAM v36 or better will not work on earlier versions.

Click to expand...

Can you still disable the immobiliser though? I thought you just couldn't enter the eka in earlier BECM

Wazzajnr said:

Can you still disable the immobiliser though? I thought you just couldn't enter the eka in earlier BECM

Click to expand...

The Nanocom disarm function will not work on BECMs prior to PAM v36, however the the need for the EKA code and the immobiliser can be disabled on all versions with the BECM in diagnostic mode.

wammers said:

The Nanocom disarm function will not work on BECMs prior to PAM v36, however the the need for the EKA code and the immobiliser can be disabled on all versions with the BECM in diagnostic mode.

Click to expand...

Just to clarify, if the car is asking for eka, you can disable that and the immobiliser on ALL BECM but only the later ones allow you to enter the eka code via BECM.
In other words, with nanocom, you can always get it going?

Wazzajnr said:

Just to clarify, if the car is asking for eka, you can disable that and the immobiliser on ALL BECM but only the later ones allow you to enter the eka code via BECM.
In other words, with nanocom, you can always get it going?

Click to expand...

Correct.

wammers said:

Correct.

Click to expand...

Thanks @wammers

wammers said:

Only works on BECMs PAM v36 or better will not work on earlier versions.

Click to expand...

When I was with Marty the other week he spotted the BECM in my '95 Land Rover was actually from 1997 and was a version 36. Given everything on it was genuine, stickers etc, we concluded it had been replaced by Land Rover on warranty.

The point of this is that you were surprised in the past that my 95 had v36 software and also that anything post 97 is probably v36 or above.

The one I have in mine now is v37, thanks to Marty.

DanClarke said:

Before I got my Nanocom I got locked out.
Fix was to remove the battery earth -side for a few mins.
Stick a key in the ignition barrel.
Reconnect the battery, and it immediately said "Press a fob button".
Got me going on that one key in one go.
Try this..... It is what got me out of trouble.
Alternative "Key in Position II" Disarming Procedure

An alternative procedure for getting the system out of disabled mode is to disconnect the battery, and reconnect it with the key in position II. Steve Glover of New Zealand tried this with great success on his 1999 Range Rover Autobiography. "We recently lost the only key that worked by remote on the vehicle. Our second key had stopped working remotely on the vehicle a couple of years ago, our dealership told us it was impossible to fix and we needed to buy a new one. We used this key to try the “key turn method” of EKA but to no avail no matter how it was done it would not disarm the alarm. We then towed the vehicle home with the alarm tooting its head off. We kept trying the key turn method at home but [it had no effect]." Steve offers the following details of how he succeeded with the alternative "key in position II" procedure:

1/ Open the Vehicle manually with the key (the alarm will be going off the whole time) and open the bonnet (it is extremely Important to leave the bonnet and the door open or you may be locked out).

2/ Disconnect the main 12 volt vehicle battery.

3/ Put key in ignition and turn to position II.

4/ Reconnect the Battery.(window unset alarms will be going off)

5/ Start the engine then push the lock and unlock buttons on the key while the engine is running.

6/ Open and close all the windows to reset them.

7/ You are done.

Worked for me 1st time.

Then I fixed everything else when I got my Nanocom.

Hope this helps mate.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip. But I couldn’t get this work. After step 4 it would only turn over. Not start. If I took the key out and put it back in it would start right up. But couldn’t get either key to sync

Thought I’d give an update.

1. Have managed to start it by entering the EKA on my Nanocom. At least I can move it about now.

2. I still can’t get either of my keys to sync. Have tried 3 or maybe 4 or more different ways that I’ve seen posted over the net. None seem to work.

3. The central locking isn’t working any more. Either with the key or even with the engine running using the sill buttons on the door cards. It did ‘unlock’ the first time I entered the EKA on the Nanocom however.

4. EKA via the door using the key does not seem to work.


Anyone suggest what I try next?
-First priority getting at least one key to sync
-Second priority finding out why the EKA via the door doesn’t work

But I have no idea how to go about either of these

If it turns over then you are no longer in an EKA lockout - but rather the immobiliser is just still on.

I would test your door latch microswitches - it sounds like it's the root cause.

If you have the 'IMMOBILISER' setting turned off in the BECM then the key WON'T sync in the ignition as the immobiliser setting just disables the passive immobiliser, which stops it automatically immobilising after a time-out period - BUT it also stops the 'friendly sync' of the key in the ignition.

If you can't lock/unlock the doors with the sill lock button, then that to me says that your CDL microswitch has failed. This is also used when you turn the key in the lock, so if it's faulty then you will NOT be able to sync the key to the vehicle at all.

My suggestion - take the door card off, check the wiring to the door latch as it can get caught by the window regulator sometimes if it's been moved before and not clipped back properly (this can cause a broken wire and then weird things to happen). If the wiring looks ok, then test the door latch microswitches - either with my test sheet that can be downloaded from the 'Technical Information' section of my website http://p38webshop.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=71, or with the Nanocom (BECM -> INPUTS -> DOORS/LOCKING from memory).

And I feel I should make a note that I do NOT recommend ANY owner trying the 'connect battery with key in position II' method. a) it doesn't do anything special with regards to getting it working - I've heard it works for some people, but it's pure luck - knowing how the system works, there is NO reason that it would magically fix anything. and the more important reason b) Connecting the battery with the key in position 2 will provide a massive instant load on the battery, and can produce a very decent spark. with the key out of the ignition, the most current draw you have is from the BECM powering up and maybe the interior lights. If you have the key in position II then you have a lot more powering up - some items of which draw a substantial inrush current. ABS pump, Blower motors, fuel pump etc - to name a few.. as well as thinks like HEVAC ECU, Radio, Engine ECU - the list goes on. Whilst some things don't draw a LOT of current, the total instantaneous draw from the battery is massive compared to if the ignition is off.

But back to your issue... I'm 95% sure it's your door latch which is the root cause of the problem.

300bhp/ton said:

Thanks for the tip. But I couldn’t get this work. After step 4 it would only turn over. Not start. If I took the key out and put it back in it would start right up. But couldn’t get either key to sync

Click to expand...

But you are not immobilised and at least you are Started(?) and that's a good thing.
I have had my keys start the vehicle but not work as remote fobs. Clearing the RF memory with a Nanocom fixed my remote key-fob working in both cases.
Find someone local with a Nanocom to clear the RF memory for you and see what happens.

As @martyuk says the battery reconnect with key in position 2 is a "desperation/no immediate alternative" measure when you are stuck and need to get the car going again. Key fob sync is a secondary issue.