EGR bypass just fitted.....possibly wrong though

Hi all, just received my egr blanking plate for my L-series diesel and got stuck in this morning before the heavens opened up! The instruction was clear, plate goes between the egr and the exhaust manifold. spent an hour trying to undo the hex bolts with no joy. Noticed the flexi pipe from the inlet manifold to the top of the exhaust gas cooler from the egr has the same gasket size so installed the blanking plate there instead and disconnected the egr vacum line and blocked.

Havent cleaned the inlet manifold yet as the weather has stopped play.

Anyone see any potential problems with blanking it this way? The exhaust gasses should not pass the egr valve now as it is disabled but not sure as surely if this easier placement of the blanking plate was possible with no problems they would have mentioned this in the instructions?

Hope I am making sense :crazy:

Ok, anyone want to let me into the secret of how to get any response here? I am now 4 posts with no reply, I have helped others on here where I can but don't seem to get the same in return. Even if some one took the p*s it would be an improvement on nothing and I like a bit of banter as much as anyone. :baby:

Hi Marty,

I know the feeling.

I really cant help you as I know sod all about the L-series engine.

I've been looking out the window at the rain most of today so didn't get anything ticked off my list of work to be done.

At least you got something done.

Singvogel.

done mine on a td4 yours sounds very different any pics

in theory it sounds ok
although a bit risky .. if the plate were blown down the inlet manifold

( trying to imagine a diagram from the description .. )

done the 'bypass' with my td4 .. ..
know nowt about L-series .. except i think i Heard one leaving a service area today in cumbria .. .. cause it sounded way different to a td4 )

any chance of a diagram ?? .. just a rough one will do ..

is an 'egr' Bypass' not made for the L-series ?

Done mine on my l series a month back had trouble with getting the hex bolts undone they a bloody tight I go a good snug fit hex key with a ring end spanner on the end for leverage and just went for it they came out fine I was a bit nervouse that it would round them at first I soaked it in Dw d40 for a few hours before I did it but don't think it make any difference anyway

I appologise for not replying earlier.

I've got a Td4 and now nothing about the L series.

LOL! Reply's are coming like Like buses! Thanks for all the advice it's just nice to know there are people out there even if the answers are not known. I am not worried about it getting sucked into the manifold as it's a pretty hefty blanking plate and it should only be heated by heat transfer from the components as the EGR valve is no longer connected so no hot exhaust gasses should get through.

The L series does sound a lot more agricultural than the TD4 but I am not bothered as it purrs along quite nicely and starts off the key. I have noticed there is a lack of knowledge on the L-series engine on here probably due to the age of them now so not so many left on the road but for reference there is an MG/Rover forum which has a lot of info on the L-series as they used it in so many of the ZR's and ZS's and rover 400/45 200/25 etc... Good for reference but more for tuning and modifying which is not really my thing anymore.

Will let you all know how she drives tomorrow after work.

Marty

look at the diagram at the bottom of this fleabay page


L Series EGR Diagram


It all looks fairly straightforward

Martyfreelander said:

Ok, anyone want to let me into the secret of how to get any response here? I am now 4 posts with no reply, I have helped others on here where I can but don't seem to get the same in return. Even if some one took the p*s it would be an improvement on nothing and I like a bit of banter as much as anyone. :baby:

Click to expand...

Hi , marty i also looked at your thread , and know nothing on the L series engine , as ive just done a egr bypass on my td4 , at least the L series kit was a lot cheaper , mine was £40 for the stainless steel version ! but worth doing the car runs a lot better

but for reference there is an MG/Rover forum which has a lot of info on the L-series as they used it in so many of the ZR's and ZS's and rover 400/45 200/25 etc

Click to expand...

had a look thru the MG/Rover forum .. ..
simply as i'd like to understand the L-series motor

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
( this bit deleted 'cause ebay diagram info has been found .. 'n posted )
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

so .. the egr unit is attached directly to the exhaust manifold

maybe the bolts would potentialy loosen easier if the manifold was warm ?
.. can't hurt to soak them in wd40 overnight if possible .. eh ..

( be totaly different placement on the td4 )

i guess .. looking at that diagram .. one potential downside to re-positioning the 'b-plate'
as you described .. .. would be the potential for exhaust gas leaks via the previous joins
( i.e. back from where the pipe joins the inlet manifold ) .. .. which .. apart from a wiff
of smoke .. .. would maybe .. at a guess .. reduce turbo efficiency ..

IF you could get the plate between the exhaust manifold .. and the egr unit ..
then far less chance of a leak ..

Thanks for all the input guys, drove 60miles today with no problems and must say there is an improvement in low down torque and its a bit more zippy away from junctions etc.. also didnt find my self changing down gear so often even on hills.
my brother has the same engine in a MG ZR and has just adjusted the turbo actuator arm and upped the boost to 19psi using a boost gauge he says the car is much quicker now with no apparent affects on the running (maybe less mpg in the long run) Not sure if he should have adjusted the fueling as well but time will tell.