Eas woes

Datatek · Apr 28, 2015

viking56 said:
I have taken the tailgate apart cleaned and lubed the button and locking mechanism. There is definitely an intermittent problem in one of the thee components which make up the locking system. Possibly the actuator. So I have ordered replacement parts. Hopefully this and a good overhaul on the compressor will get me back on track. Thanks for all your help.

As Tomcat said, the check the connector to the tailgate button for corrosion.
the other cause of the button not working or the locks cycling while driving is dried grease in the drivers lock mechanism. strip & clean is the real answer, squirting WD40 down into the lock from the window slot may fix it temporarily, it does on mine.

tomcat59alan · Apr 28, 2015

Datatek said:
As Tomcat said, the check the connector to the tailgate button for corrosion.
the other cause of the button not working or the locks cycling while driving is dried grease in the drivers lock mechanism. strip & clean is the real answer, squirting WD40 down into the lock from the window slot may fix it temporarily, it does on mine.

Oh Keith, I think you have known me long enough to call me Alan

Datatek · Apr 28, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
Oh Keith, I think you have known me long enough to call me Alan

I have never been able to remember names, when reps came into my company, if they didn't give me a business card I had forgotten their name by the time they had sat down

sorry

viking56 · Apr 28, 2015

Thanks Datatek. Door trim has to come off anyway as I have to replace the window quadrant. Too much use and the rivets lozenge, the subsequent play in the mounting plate means the drive cog strips off part off the tooth at 3/4 raised. Solution new quadrant and good steel rivets.

tomcat59alan · Apr 28, 2015

Datatek said:
I have never been able to remember names, when reps came into my company, if they didn't give me a business card I had forgotten their name by the time they had sat down sorry

The clue is after Tomcat59

Datatek · Apr 28, 2015

tomcat59alan said:
The clue is after Tomcat59

I'm also lazy

ovalandrover · Apr 28, 2015

viking56 said:
Thanks Datatek. Door trim has to come off anyway as I have to replace the window quadrant. Too much use and the rivets lozenge, the subsequent play in the mounting plate means the drive cog strips off part off the tooth at 3/4 raised. Solution new quadrant and good steel rivets.

I used nuts and bolts instead of rivets

tomcat59alan · Apr 28, 2015

ovalandrover said:
i used nuts and bolts instead of rivets

+1.

Datatek · Apr 28, 2015

viking56 said:
Thanks Datatek. Door trim has to come off anyway as I have to replace the window quadrant. Too much use and the rivets lozenge, the subsequent play in the mounting plate means the drive cog strips off part off the tooth at 3/4 raised. Solution new quadrant and good steel rivets.

The quadrant gear fails even if the rivets don't work loose

SS bolts are best as you will be changing it again at some point

viking56 · May 4, 2015

All bits have arrived and started to put all together. I'd like to shake the throat of the guy who designed the brush set for the compressor, as I have destroyed the replacement set. Now awaiting replacement compressor. Is there a supplier who sells a replacement bearing for the commutator shaft, (not piston) as the only way I can see of putting all together is by splitting the shaft from the body, but this obviously destroys the bearing.

wammers · May 4, 2015

viking56 said:
All bits have arrived and started to put all together. I'd like to shake the throat of the guy who designed the brush set for the compressor, as I have destroyed the replacement set. Now awaiting replacement compressor. Is there a supplier who sells a replacement bearing for the commutator shaft, (not piston) as the only way I can see of putting all together is by splitting the shaft from the body, but this obviously destroys the bearing.

It is loctited in, heat the case it will come out. Loctite it back in.

viking56 · May 4, 2015

Thanks

tnseal · May 4, 2015

Fuse warnings are usually a sign of a fuse board burn out OR a relay that supplies those fuses. Have you got a copy of RAVE if not go to Ebuy gum and search for a copy. the circuits are on the disc. I have swopped relays of the same colour especially those with a key symbol (ignition relay) to check them.

Datatek · May 4, 2015

tnseal said:
Fuse warnings are usually a sign of a fuse board burn out OR a relay that supplies those fuses. Have you got a copy of RAVE if not go to Ebuy gum and search for a copy. the circuits are on the disc. I have swopped relays of the same colour especially those with a key symbol (ignition relay) to check them.

You can down load RAVE from a link in Wammers EAS guide in the How To section or I can supply on CD for the cost of postage if you are stuck.

viking56 · May 6, 2015

thanks again for the info. Been a bit busy for the last couple of days. Job for the weekend!

wammers · May 6, 2015

tnseal said:
Fuse warnings are usually a sign of a fuse board burn out OR a relay that supplies those fuses. Have you got a copy of RAVE if not go to Ebuy gum and search for a copy. the circuits are on the disc. I have swopped relays of the same colour especially those with a key symbol (ignition relay) to check them.

Relays don't supply fuses. Fuses supply relays.

viking56 · May 8, 2015

Put the compressor back in this morning, started up and left her idling, whilst I had a cup of tea. Son came in and said well done for fixing the suspension, which left me confused, until I popped out to have a look. Car now riding majestically at normal height!
This still leaves the electrical problem with fuses 12 through 15. Rear wiper non functioning, rear lock on lower tailgate opening, all lights and indicators on drivers side(although repeaters on dash working)! Will report any findings later.

Busterthebulldog · May 10, 2015

I had similar issues with mine and eventually traced it to the plug connector on the compressor it seemed fine and mostly worked but randomly stopped passing current. I think the copper connectors had softened with age/heat. I replaced the plugs with block connectors which cured the issue.

viking56 · May 11, 2015

I think the problem is more likely BeCM as I put on a different compressor and the electrical problems persisted. The car is functioning correctly in all aspects of control and alarm. Its just that the distribution of electrical supply top components is being interrupted. BeCM is coming out and I'm going to dust off my weapons engineering mechanic past and have a dabble. Final straw was the horn going off twice for over a minute on Saturday P.M. As I was in the middle of fitting a new window unit on the House.
Oh the Frenchies don't like that they don't

Datatek · May 11, 2015

viking56 said:
I think the problem is more likely BeCM as I put on a different compressor and the electrical problems persisted. The car is functioning correctly in all aspects of control and alarm. Its just that the distribution of electrical supply top components is being interrupted. BeCM is coming out and I'm going to dust off my weapons engineering mechanic past and have a dabble. Final straw was the horn going off twice for over a minute on Saturday P.M. As I was in the middle of fitting a new window unit on the House.
Oh the Frenchies don't like that they don't

Before you interfere with the BECM, check the under bonnet fuse box and the power connection to it.

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