Eas will not raise the car

Hi, Yes, I have tried the search function but cannot quite get the answer I need
I am slowly trying to iron out the EAS problems on my 1995 P38. When I bought it, the EAS was erratic and I used Graeme Storey's software to reset the heights but I was still not happy with it so I replaced the front air springs and pipes and the valve block, which I had re-sealed myself (first one i'd done so I am not 100% confident with it) this didn't help and in fact it started to deflate on the front left when left even for a short while. I decided to change the valve block again, as I got hold of a secondhand unit which was (allegedly) working perfectly when removed from the donor vehicle.

A have re-sealed the pump, which is now working fine and with the replacement valve block I ran it to test. The pump worked fine, there was no through-flow out of the exhaust port to indicate a faulty diaphragm but it seemed to be taking a long time to fill up, and work. I opened the tailgate to help the pump fill the tank and eventually the pump stopped. Okay... here we go. I closed the tailgate and watched as the rear started to lift. It got to about two-thirds of the way and then the valve block dumped all the air out of the exhaust port and it went down again! I tried it a couple more times and exactly the same thing happened.

I am pretty confident there are no leaks at the springs or the pipes to the tank or dryer and also the rear springs because it raises pretty sharpish (and there were no previous problems).

Anyway, anybody got any other ideas about what could be wrong?

Calibration - use the free EAS software.

Maybe it goes into safe height as calibration or 1 or more sensors are wrong

Thanks for that but I think the calibraton is okay - unchanged from before the swap when all the heights were correct. Also, the software is not recording any faults and there is no hard fault or soft fault generated.

Your second hand valve block is fecked by the sounds of it. Did the front springs inflate at all when testing?

Not at all.

Then if front airbags and lines are all ok, pumps working, and no air is getting there, then it is the valve block/driver pack. Its dumping the air out of the rear springs because the front isn't holding air.

kevwill said:

Then if front airbags and lines are all ok, pumps working, and no air is getting there, then it is the valve block/driver pack. Its dumping the air out of the rear springs because the front isn't holding air.

Click to expand...

As above, your secondhand valve block is fecked or the solenoids are on in the wrong places or the driver pack is fecked or you have a duff height sensor, have you looked at the actual sensor readings? All that assumes that you do not have a major leak and that you got the pipes back in the right ports in the valve block.

Thanks for that Datatek; I suspect the driver pack also. I have now replaced the valve block with the one I removed to start all this off and the symptoms are the same. I have also replaced the ECU with no difference in symptoms. I will recon the valve block, and refit with a different driver, see what happens then.....

Baloney999 said:

Thanks for that Datatek; I suspect the driver pack also. I have now replaced the valve block with the one I removed to start all this off and the symptoms are the same. I have also replaced the ECU with no difference in symptoms. I will recon the valve block, and refit with a different driver, see what happens then.....

Click to expand...

Do one thing at a time and then test, first rule of diagnostics, either do the valve block and test or change the driver pack and test.

I blame the heat! Either that or I am endowed with a special kind of stupid! When I had problems with a leaking valve block before, I took the air pipes from my coil conversion P38 and fitted them but did not remove the old pipe - I just ran it alongside. Problem is, when I swapped the valve block, I plugged the wrong one in, so the valve block was trying to inflate the front right air spring and venting into the atmosphere!!! I heard a whoooosh but couldn't locate the source it because the end of the pipe was hidden under the ABS pump! I checked the spring connection - no leak (obviously because the pipe connected to the air spring was not being fed!!).

I just feel so bleddy stupid! Especially as I changed the front right air spring and only realised what had happened When I reached for the pipe to plug it in to the top of the spring.

Everything works perfectly now and I am left to ponder how precise and systematic one has to be to avoid stoopid mistakes. I am not even sure now that it is safe to a drive car that I have worked on!!!

Sorry to bother you all (walks away head bowed in embarrassment)..

Mind you, on the bright side, I did get to spend quality time with my beloved!!!!

Mind you, on the bright side, I did get to spend quality time with my beloved!!!![/QUOTE]

Do you mean you're other car??

Baloney999 said:

I blame the heat! Either that or I am endowed with a special kind of stupid! When I had problems with a leaking valve block before, I took the air pipes from my coil conversion P38 and fitted them but did not remove the old pipe - I just ran it alongside. Problem is, when I swapped the valve block, I plugged the wrong one in, so the valve block was trying to inflate the front right air spring and venting into the atmosphere!!! I heard a whoooosh but couldn't locate the source it because the end of the pipe was hidden under the ABS pump! I checked the spring connection - no leak (obviously because the pipe connected to the air spring was not being fed!!).

I just feel so bleddy stupid! Especially as I changed the front right air spring and only realised what had happened When I reached for the pipe to plug it in to the top of the spring.

Everything works perfectly now and I am left to ponder how precise and systematic one has to be to avoid stoopid mistakes. I am not even sure now that it is safe to a drive car that I have worked on!!!

Sorry to bother you all (walks away head bowed in embarrassment)..

Mind you, on the bright side, I did get to spend quality time with my beloved!!!!

Click to expand...

Takes a big man to admit a cock up

@kevwill - mmm... my other car's a P38 - on coil springs tho, but I don't want to get into the comparison thing (big minefield)

Everything seemed to run okay for while but I had couple of hard faults (and bumpy ride!) and there was some dropping at the front when parked - so I decided to re-seal a valve block and fit it. When I was putting it in, I noticed that the front left air tube was plugged into front right port, and visa versa so I corrected it, putting the right tube into the right port ( front right above front left?). When I started her up the front went up (too high) and the back didn't budge at all. I really didn't like this so I changed the driver, with one I had spare and started her up again; this time the left side went up and the right side did not budge at all. I tried adjusting the values with the EAS software but no joy. Finally, I put the air tubes back to how I found them ( incorrect ) and I got more or less level but the front much lower than the back on all heights. I would really like to have the air tubes in the correct holes but the damn thing just seems to do what it wants at each corner when I do that. How can it work pretty much okay when the front air spring air tubes are swapped?

Baloney999 said:

Everything seemed to run okay for while but I had couple of hard faults (and bumpy ride!) and there was some dropping at the front when parked - so I decided to re-seal a valve block and fit it. When I was putting it in, I noticed that the front left air tube was plugged into front right port, and visa versa so I corrected it, putting the right tube into the right port ( front right above front left?). When I started her up the front went up (too high) and the back didn't budge at all. I really didn't like this so I changed the driver, with one I had spare and started her up again; this time the left side went up and the right side did not budge at all. I tried adjusting the values with the EAS software but no joy. Finally, I put the air tubes back to how I found them ( incorrect ) and I got more or less level but the front much lower than the back on all heights. I would really like to have the air tubes in the correct holes but the damn thing just seems to do what it wants at each corner when I do that. How can it work pretty much okay when the front air spring air tubes are swapped?

Click to expand...

The solenoid coils are in the wrong place. Look in this for correct positioning and wiring. http://paulp38a.com/range-rover-p38/eas-valve-block-renew/

There's honesty for you