EAS - Troubleshooting help!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
crumble said:
I'm certain it's not the pipes - I have a 'before' photo. Will double check though.

More concerned that it's dumped £70 worth of diesel outside the front door of the office.

RAC?
Click to expand...

Diesel leak needs sorting should be pretty easy to find. As for EAS pipes and coils look in my "How To" at valve block rebuild link there is a diagram of colour code pipe fitment and wire runs in that.
 
The coils look straightforward with the picture on the previous page. As for pipes, only two of mine have colours on them?

RAC are coming in an hour to get car to local garage to look at fuel issue!
 
crumble said:
The coils look straightforward with the picture on the previous page. As for pipes, only two of mine have colours on them?

RAC are coming in an hour to get car to local garage to look at fuel issue!
Click to expand...

Well put the ones colour coded in the correct positions then you only have two to worry about. The fronts are obvious you can trace them.
 
Makes perfect sense, cheers!

RAC man sorted the fuel issue...very embarassingly it was my own fault. I knocked a pipe off in the engine bay = diesel everywhere.
 
I know right, very helpful.

His first comment was "What on earth possessed you to buy one of these?"

He did offer to tow it to the garage because of the wonky suspension. I told him it was in hand, and he looked quite sorry for me.

Still wonky this morning. Having to use EASUnlock to get the right hand side off the ground each time I use it. Too dark and cold to play in the evenings at the moment, but next plans are:

Work out how/whether FL and RR have been swapped over somehow

Go over my valve block reassembly and check pipe location and more importantly the solenoid cap location.

Then want to re-clean and completely dry the plugs in footwells.

Then clean connectors on all height sensors.

Then check NRVs.
 
crumble said:
I know right, very helpful.

His first comment was "What on earth possessed you to buy one of these?"

He did offer to tow it to the garage because of the wonky suspension. I told him it was in hand, and he looked quite sorry for me.

Still wonky this morning. Having to use EASUnlock to get the right hand side off the ground each time I use it. Too dark and cold to play in the evenings at the moment, but next plans are:

Work out how/whether FL and RR have been swapped over somehow

Go over my valve block reassembly and check pipe location and more importantly the solenoid cap location.

Then want to re-clean and completely dry the plugs in footwells.

Then clean connectors on all height sensors.

Then check NRVs.
Click to expand...

NRVs won't cause what you've got.
 
crumble said:
I'll hold you to that. It makes my jobs list a lot easier!

Thanks :)
Click to expand...

NRV 1 holds pressure in the tank. Unless you are losing air pressure in the tank overnight it is fine. NRV 2 prevents air from the bags flowing into an empty tank when the inlet valve and corner valves are opened. NRV 3 prevents high pressure air from flowing into the exhaust cavity against the exhaust valve when the compressor is running.
 
ovalandrover said:
one of the nrv is in the other way from the other 2. have you got them in the right way?
Click to expand...

I have indeed. Took a photo of that and everything ;)

It does seem to be dropping after I get out now - immediately though, rather than over a long period.
 
crumble said:
I have indeed. Took a photo of that and everything ;)

It does seem to be dropping after I get out now - immediately though, rather than over a long period.
Click to expand...

I will say again for those who cannot read. NRVs CANNOT cause the suspension to drop. Bags leaking can, pipes leaking can, solenoid valves leaking can, the small O'ring under the solenoid valve seat leaking can. The only possible time a NRV can cause the suspension to drop, is if the tank is empty and NRV2 is duff. So that when you start up and the valves open to lift the rear end, air flows from the bags into the empty tank. That is the only possible scenario.
 
crumble said:
I know right, very helpful.

His first comment was "What on earth possessed you to buy one of these?"

He did offer to tow it to the garage because of the wonky suspension. I told him it was in hand, and he looked quite sorry for me.

Still wonky this morning. Having to use EASUnlock to get the right hand side off the ground each time I use it. Too dark and cold to play in the evenings at the moment, but next plans are:

Work out how/whether FL and RR have been swapped over somehow

Go over my valve block reassembly and check pipe location and more importantly the solenoid cap location.

Then want to re-clean and completely dry the plugs in footwells.

Then clean connectors on all height sensors.

Then check NRVs.
Click to expand...


Add to your list a new dryer as the exhaust was full of white powder.
 
Datatek said:
Add to your list a new dryer as the exhaust was full of white powder.
Click to expand...

And a new exhaust. I left it on the drive in the rain and it ot driven over.

Presume I'd have needed to replace anyway due to white powder?
 
Fed up of the thing leaning so much, so decided to brave the dark and cold tonight.

Got the valve block out. Sure enough, I had put RR and FL solenoid lids back to front (RR was on FL and vice versa.)

Reassembled, then re-sprayed the plugs in the footwells, and then dried with hair dryer.

Started up, and left it all to repressurise with door open.

Sat in the car, and it all works, perfectly. Button does what iit's supposed to do and everything!!

Wait and see what happens when I drive it tomorrrow, but for the moment, it seems all good. Additionally, the new stereo works great too. Couldn't get it working with the loom adaptor I bought from Nexxia, but it works fine without. The feedback I was getting from the right door speaker was resolved by recleaning and drying the connector in the driver footwell.

Thanks so much for all help!
 
Hi, glad to hear that you are getting it sorted. I know from experience that the EAS can give you grief but there are some top members on this site who know what they are talking about and have also helped me out on more than one occasion, if you read up lots on the EAS system like I do it's not really that bad, it's biggest down fall is leaks, keep an eye out for them and you should be ok. Good luck,
Paul
 
crumble said:
Fed up of the thing leaning so much, so decided to brave the dark and cold tonight.

Got the valve block out. Sure enough, I had put RR and FL solenoid lids back to front (RR was on FL and vice versa.)

Reassembled, then re-sprayed the plugs in the footwells, and then dried with hair dryer.

Started up, and left it all to repressurise with door open.

Sat in the car, and it all works, perfectly. Button does what iit's supposed to do and everything!!

Wait and see what happens when I drive it tomorrrow, but for the moment, it seems all good. Additionally, the new stereo works great too. Couldn't get it working with the loom adaptor I bought from Nexxia, but it works fine without. The feedback I was getting from the right door speaker was resolved by recleaning and drying the connector in the driver footwell.

Thanks so much for all help!
Click to expand...
Big grins.....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Stev
suspension in extended mode and Suspension failure
2 3 4
Replies
68
Views
2K
Stev
Stev
IandiscoV8
P38A EAS Fault finding threads or files.
2 3
Replies
55
Views
4K
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
peaky1979
Rear height sensor
2
Replies
22
Views
777
backinblack
backinblack
rover75lover
l 322 suspension operation
Replies
2
Views
991
pwood999
pwood999
J
P38 broken/snapped height sensor arm (rear)
Replies
4
Views
484
JT_spark
J
Back
Top