EAS The Battle Continues

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No its just when I previously mentioned about locking it in standard hight you started rambling on about how its not needed and is fully automated and more stable when lowered etc etc
and that why would you lock it as Landrover had designed a good device that would, did not need its system locked etc to save the compressor usage ..
That was the point of us locking it in standard hight .

You did not agree hence why I said

You've changed your tune :)

Not quite, I don't lock it at standard height.
 
It's a lot less work for the pump if you do not drop it. I now run mine locked at motorway height all the time unless I'm in floods or mud.
I rather think you will find that all is well if you do not drop it.

Started her this morning, put on motorway height and locked it. Pump ran a short while. Left for day. Just taken her out, on start, no flashing on dash. Went for long run. When got back, checked pump, barely warm. So this seems to be the way to go.

Thanks for suggestion.
 
Started her this morning, put on motorway height and locked it. Pump ran a short while. Left for day. Just taken her out, on start, no flashing on dash. Went for long run. When got back, checked pump, barely warm. So this seems to be the way to go.

Thanks for suggestion.
It sounds like you do not actually have a problem, just a slight missunderstanding of what was happening. Looks like it could be a happy new year Rachel:D
 
Is there actually anything wrong with it?

Santa didn't bring the gauge:eek:

They do dance.

If you fitted the gauge as grit-valve and I said you can see whats going on in regards to fill tank, leaks etc.
My pump doesn't run continuously to fill tank but takes a breather now and then.
Sounds like you lower the car on exit and therefore the pump always have to work a fair bit filling tank on entry when you hit buttons.

Started her this morning, put on motorway height and locked it. Pump ran a short while. Left for day. Just taken her out, on start, no flashing on dash. Went for long run. When got back, checked pump, barely warm. So this seems to be the way to go.

Thanks for suggestion.

You would have understood a lot sooner if listened to gauge suggestions in previous thread you started about the subject and the hints above;)

NB: mine works fine left on it's own just don't lower it very often as I know the consequences from watching gauge:)
 
You would have understood a lot sooner if listened to gauge suggestions in previous thread you started about the subject and the hints above;)

NB: mine works fine left on it's own just don't lower it very often as I know the consequences from watching gauge:)

Yep, you were right..... I like to walk the long road :frusty:
 
You would have understood a lot sooner if listened to gauge suggestions in previous thread you started about the subject and the hints above;)

NB: mine works fine left on it's own just don't lower it very often as I know the consequences from watching gauge:)
I've always reckoned that suspension movement is a pretty good guide to pressure, a gauge is just another thing to go wrong.:)
 
Of course once comfortable with everything you disconnect the gauge like I have to reduce possibilities of a leak = Standard installation
Druim you can get a 8mm reducer to 6mm and test the pump itself saves waiting for the tank on the inlet before it goes through the drier handy :)
Ps I notice nobody thought about this : D

Frequent Compressor Operation
Unfortunately this is usually normal. Partly it is due to the pressure switch being located on the valve block instead of at the tank. This causes the pressure switch to sense a drop in pressure every time air is drawn from the tank -- due to the long narrow gauge airline from tank to valve block. This momentary drop in pressure causes the compressor to come on again. If compressor operation becomes almost continuous, however, something is wrong ;)
 
I've always reckoned that suspension movement is a pretty good guide to pressure, a gauge is just another thing to go wrong.:)


Sometimes you need Test Equepment, Gauge is just that and a very cheap one before changing out everything else.

1 gauge, small piece of pipe & couple of fittings, less than a tenner for learning/testing;)

When confident simply disconnect gauge, nobody would ever know it was there. (or leave it if you like looking at gauges:))
 
Sometimes you need Test Equepment, Gauge is just that and a very cheap one before changing out everything else.

1 gauge, small piece of pipe & couple of fittings, less than a tenner for learning/testing;)

When confident simply disconnect gauge, nobody would ever know it was there. (or leave it if you like looking at gauges:))

You can't tell what pressure is at the end of ya finger just that some is there big difference.

You think you got a leak in a bag pull it out of valve block ( the correct way )
Shrider valve gauge pump it up check what could be easier than scrambling underneath with spray guns in the freezing cold .

I know what I'd rather do :D
 
You can't tell what pressure is at the end of ya finger just that some is there big difference.

You think you got a leak in a bag pull it out of valve block ( the correct way )
Shrider valve gauge pump it up check what could be easier than scrambling underneath with spray guns in the freezing cold .

I know what I'd rather do :D

With experience you can, but some of us lack that attribute. :p:D
 
You can't tell what pressure is at the end of ya finger just that some is there big difference.

You think you got a leak in a bag pull it out of valve block ( the correct way )
Shrider valve gauge pump it up check what could be easier than scrambling underneath with spray guns in the freezing cold .

I know what I'd rather do :D

Yes, multipurpose, especially if crystal ball is worn:cool:
 
Yes, multipurpose, especially if crystal ball is worn:cool:

Its special and if the bag isn't leaking turn the gauge and its tap towards the block inline,pump up shut tap, guage drops over time valve block leak so so simples crystal ball not needed :):):)
 
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