eas settings faults etc etc

hi all have a problem with my mums eas. pump keeps running then stops 30 secs approx runs and so on also if bonnet lifted seems to do a few clicking noises and then a release of air also plugged the laptop in and brought back the following faults

2 fr signal incorrect
4 rl signal incorrect
7 vehicle moved
so firstly what does this mean also i went into calibrate to see what the settings were incase it can help someone solve the problem and was the following

fl fr rl rr
133 126 128 125 high
106 102 110 107 standard
90 88 98 95 low
60 61 77 74 access

gives you the option of writing new settings but did not want to do anything and cause damage to it as not sure what they should be can anyone tell me if these are right and if not what they should be or are they individual to each car any help would be great thanks everyone

Calibrating is tricky enough and the first thing you need is exactly level ground - not as easy as you might think to find unless you have access to a warehouse floor.

There is a good step by step guide to calibration using wheel centre to wing heights on RR.net

As regards the fault codes the first thing you need to do is clear the codes and check again after a drive to see what is a recurring fault or what was caused by a guy changing the wheels using a bodylift or such since the last time the faults were cleared.

The fault codes may or may not even be related to the compressor running. In my experience this is caused by a failing drive pack but its a bit of a chicken and egg situation. If the height reading fault does not re-occur and you are getting a constant height reading then i doubt they are related. The only way they could cause the compressor to run would be if they kept giving different readings causing it to lift up and down using lots of air.

Are there any other symptoms, like 'dancing' at traffic lights or undemanded height changes?

kj200sx said:

hi all have a problem with my mums eas. pump keeps running then stops 30 secs approx runs and so on also if bonnet lifted seems to do a few clicking noises and then a release of air also plugged the laptop in and brought back the following faults

2 fr signal incorrect
4 rl signal incorrect
7 vehicle moved
so firstly what does this mean also i went into calibrate to see what the settings were incase it can help someone solve the problem and was the following

fl fr rl rr
133 126 128 125 high
106 102 110 107 standard
90 88 98 95 low
60 61 77 74 access

gives you the option of writing new settings but did not want to do anything and cause damage to it as not sure what they should be can anyone tell me if these are right and if not what they should be or are they individual to each car any help would be great thanks everyone

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The "vehicle moved" message is irrelevant, it is almost always there.
As SpudH say's clear the faults and see what comes back.
The height numbers are just that, numbers, they are not an actual measurement. They can vary according to the height sensor accuracy. They should be noted down if you are going to adjust heights and small changes made as changing one corner affects all the others as the vehicle angle changes.
If the pump keeps running, you could have a leak somewhere, or the pump could be worn.

no other symptoms ive noticed but she only got it last night so not really used it how long should i leave it befor reading the fault codes again? also am i right in thinking that its a sealed system and once its reached a certain height it should stay there unless there is a leak or a faulty sensor etc is telling it to raise or lower????? also what is the clicking noise then the release of air?also if it had a faulty height sensor saying say one side was low could that cause the pump to run as it thinks it needs raisng ??

The clicking is the system attempting to self level. No it is not a sealed system. The release of air means full pressure reached.
A faulty height sensor can cause some strange effects but it will not always show as a fault.

so if its constantly running then releasing pressure then i dont think its a leak as its constantly over filling rite. so it must be thinking that it needs to be raised somewhere when actually it does not or am i thinking down the wrong lines here sorry if stupid questions but quite new to this

kj200sx said:

so if its constantly running then releasing pressure then i dont think its a leak as its constantly over filling rite. so it must be thinking that it needs to be raised somewhere when actually it does not or am i thinking down the wrong lines here sorry if stupid questions but quite new to this

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If the constant running and release of pressure is with the bonnet open, then in my opinion that is normal. I have 2 that do that

so if i read the codes again see if any have returned if not then you dont reakon there is a fault at all there was no fault showing when i read the codes just done it to see and seems to work fine without fault apart from the pump running more than i thought it should do ??? just didnt want to kill the pump if there was a fault thats all

kj200sx said:

so if i read the codes again see if any have returned if not then you dont reakon there is a fault at all there was no fault showing when i read the codes just done it to see and seems to work fine without fault apart from the pump running more than i thought it should do ??? just didnt want to kill the pump if there was a fault thats all

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The pump should run until there is 150 psi in the tank, it will then stop and excess air from the pressure side of the compressor will evaquate. That is so the compressor is not starting against pressure. It should not start again until air pressure drops to 120 psi. If it runs without any height change being made then either the pressure switch is faulty or you have a leak.

wammers said:

The pump should run until there is 150 psi in the tank, it will then stop and excess air from the pressure side of the compressor will evaquate. That is so the compressor is not starting against pressure. It should not start again until air pressure drops to 120 psi. If it runs without any height change being made then either the pressure switch is faulty or you have a leak.

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Unless the bonnet is open when it cycles continuously. Why I know not unless it's a trouble shooting aid

Datatek said:

Unless the bonnet is open when it cycles continuously. Why I know not unless it's a trouble shooting aid

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Mine does not do that. 150 psi no pumping, less than 120 psi pumping. Where is the air going to make the pump come back on?

read the fault codes again today and there were no faults showing apart from the (vehicle has moved one) but the pump still seems to be going alot i swapped the relay over and it is not that so am stumped i did have feel of my p38 and seems to run the same but you cant here it but seems to be abit of debate as to whether this is normal or not also if you move the pump about it gets louder and quieter depending where it is could it just need new bushes that hold the pumkp in place and im noticing it coz its loud also how do you check to see if the pressure switch is working as it should be? sorry its abit long winded but want to get it sorted for her asap if it is a problem thanks again

still trying to sort out my mums eas pump problem ive sat it next to my car and seems to work/run the same but is just alot noisier it does seem a little slow lifting in the morning but no signs of a leak have sprayed it and measured the height and then again in the morning and only dropped about 5mm so any ideas????? also can you buy new bushes for the pump that hold it in poisition or is noisy becoz its had it any ideas be great as want to sort it befor it gets worse thanks

worn comp worn height sensor never calibrate unless you have a full tank of fuel are on level ground and if it has gas also fill that tank too! check tyre pressures are correct too!
the eas unlock software is more of a get you out of the **** rather than a full diagnostic tool trust me i hva etried to use it got feed up and bought a full testbook kit!
the comp is it showing a intermittant over heat signal?

vougese39 said:

the eas unlock software is more of a get you out of the **** rather than a full diagnostic tool trust me i hva etried to use it got feed up and bought a full testbook kit!
?

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Odd that, I have found the EAS unlock suite excellent for diagnosis and clearing the codes. Dead easy to use once it is synched

but from perspective it is not near as usefull to me as testbook which i was trained to use was disapointed with what limitaons it could do and when it was ment to clear faults rechecking with testbook showed they were still in the ecu as intermittant faults which is why it recfaults so quick