P38A Eas rising slowly

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James Rogers

James Rogers

Active Member
Posts
170
Location
Framlingham
Hi, I sold my disco 1 over a year ago due to rust. I'm rubbish at welding. But I've now ventured into the p38 (my personal favourite) gone for the diesel 2.5 because I'll be using it daily. Everything works as it should, shocking I know but the one thing that doesn't seem right is the eas takes ages to raise. I can leave it an hour and the suspension will be down. I've noticed that the previous owner has fitted valves inline with the eas pipes. This is apparently so you can manually pump it up if necessary, but where the push fittings are connecting they leak ever so slightly. Surely not enough to drain all the air? No audible air leaks from underneath but I haven't looked properly. What are the common causes for this issue? I have a compressor and valve block which came with the car. I did try searching for this but the search bit isn't working for some reason. Any help appreciated. Also side note, what tyres should I fit which don't break the bank?
 
Hi sounds like the pump needs a referb due to feeding a leak which is probably an air bag or melted pipe from leaky exhaust amd is why it drops.
if you look top left of range rover home page you will find the tech archive in there Wammers did a post on checking the eas have a run through the checks.
 
Each connection on the pipes to valveblock have two o-rings in each collet. They are cheap and easy to replace.

If you have a leak it will burn your compressor out. That can usually be refurbed too. Take your time and spray things with soapy water to find the leaks. Around exhaust is a favourite to go as Brian says.
There is also a tech article by doo.

Good luck
 
Ditch the emergency inflation kit. Leave it there in case you need it but take the lines out and put them straight in the valve block. One less thing to leak.
 
The most common cause of the car sinking is worn out airbags, the have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles.
As others have said, leaks will quickly wear out the air compressor. Easy job to overhaul and not expensive.
It only takes a small leak on one corner to drop the car as the EAS wakes up from time to time to level the car so will drop all corners to the lowest point.
 
After investigating both rear air bags are pretty badly perished. Osr is leaking quite a bit. Where's the best place to source them and what's a reasonable price?
 
James Rogers said:
After investigating both rear air bags are pretty badly perished. Osr is leaking quite a bit. Where's the best place to source them and what's a reasonable price?
Click to expand...

Depends on how much you want to spend. Best to do all 4. Arnott are better quality but Dunlop are original and good for 7 years or so. Should be able to get all 4 for maybe £250.
 
If the EAS is rising slowly after morning start the storage side is leaking air. Pipe to tank more than likely. There should always be pressure in the tank even if a bag has leaked and the suspension dropped overnight. The EAS does not use any air from the tank for ignition off self levelling, it only levels downwards. So on first start EAS should being to rise immediately. If tank pressure has leaked away, you will have to wait for compressor to fill tank sufficiently for the suspension to start to rise. Rear first then front. If the compressor has been weakened feeding a leak this could take several minuets.
 
wammers said:
If the EAS is rising slowly after morning start the storage side is leaking air. Pipe to tank more than likely. There should always be pressure in the tank even if a bag has leaked and the suspension dropped overnight. The EAS does not use any air from the tank for ignition off self levelling, it only levels downwards. So on first start EAS should being to rise immediately. If tank pressure has leaked away, you will have to wait for compressor to fill tank sufficiently for the suspension to start to rise. Rear first then front. If the compressor has been weakened feeding a leak this could take several minuets.
Click to expand...
How long should it take from empty to suspension in drive position if the tanks empty? I've checked all the pipes with soapy water. Only leak I could find was the air bag and the "emergency manual valves" mentioned above. I have a compressor so I think I'll change the bags and compressor and go from there I think.
 
James Rogers said:
How long should it take from empty to suspension in drive position if the tanks empty? I've checked all the pipes with soapy water. Only leak I could find was the air bag and the "emergency manual valves" mentioned above. I have a compressor so I think I'll change the bags and compressor and go from there I think.
Click to expand...

If you leave a door open to prevent suspension movement, compressor should fill tank from empty in five or six minuets. Then when door is shut suspension should rise. Compressor will start again for a couple of minuets. Suspension should be fully up. If compressor is good sitting in car with engine running will take around the same amount of time but suspension will go up in fits and starts.
 
wammers said:
If you leave a door open to prevent suspension movement, compressor should fill tank from empty in five or six minuets. Then when door is shut suspension should rise. Compressor will start again for a couple of minuets. Suspension should be fully up. If compressor is good sitting in car with engine running will take around the same amount of time but suspension will go up in fits and starts.
Click to expand...
Sounds about right actually. It will take a while even after being left only an hour so must be a major leak? I have a new valve block too, could it be that? I sprayed all around the tank and the pipes by the exhaust and there's nothing there. No audible signs either. Is it best to get rid of the manual valves for pumping up?
 
James Rogers said:
Sounds about right actually. It will take a while even after being left only an hour so must be a major leak? I have a new valve block too, could it be that? I sprayed all around the tank and the pipes by the exhaust and there's nothing there. No audible signs either. Is it best to get rid of the manual valves for pumping up?
Click to expand...

Other than pipe 6 from valve block to tank. NRV 1 could be leaking. There are checks for that in my EAS post in tech archive. Yeah get ride of manual valves and sort the problem they were fitted to mask.
 
wammers said:
Other than pipe 6 from valve block to tank. NRV 1 could be leaking. There are checks for that in my EAS post in tech archive. Yeah get ride of manual valves and sort the problem they were fitted to mask.
Click to expand...
Just read your guide on the archive. Just wondering what you mean by the exhaust/exhaust filter? Where is that located?
 
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