rangie1998
Active Member
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Yeah, did 'read all'.
P38A EAS question
- Thread starter rangie1998
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rangie1998
Active Member
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If there is a dodgy height sensor would this always show a fault code?
Is there anyone willing to bench test the valve block?
Thanks
Is there anyone willing to bench test the valve block?
Thanks
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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A dodgy height sensor will not always show a fault code. Erratic operation may show up on live data.
If the car doesn't drop overnight with the EAS relay removed or the rear hatch ajar, I would say your valve block is OK. If you have a specific worry about it, Replacing the O rings is not a difficult job.
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So it does the Normal & High modes ok ? Is the problem still pump running all the time ?? If yes, then it's either worn out, or there's a leak preventing it reaching full pressure ?
For bench testing the valve block, I have the kit, but probably too far from you.
For bench testing the valve block, I have the kit, but probably too far from you.
rangie1998
Active Member
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Thanks the offer, might end up posting it to you!
Yeah, pump still running all the time. I'm going to try get some live data this weekend. Thanks everyone for your help, not giving up yet!
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Get a pressure gauge, and connect it directly to the pump output. When pump runs it should rapidly go up to >>150psi. If not pump isn't producing enough air.
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Did you ever get to the bottom of this? I think my compressor is running way too much now. I have no leaks, car stays up with the relay removed, leak detection spray shows nothing at the pipe connections or around the valve solenoids (at the least top ones)... but it's still running an awful lot.
I'm going to try and Nanocom some live data to comapre to my old trace in post #26, but I have exactly the same symptoms. Compressor runs, stops at full pressure, but then kicks in again almost straight away, then cuts out again, then on. Even with just normal driving it's on all the time.
Seeing as I can't find a leak, I suspect a duff height sensor that the ECU is trying to constantly adjust for?? I did wonder if it's possible for the tank istelf to have pinhole leaks? It's obviously loosing pressure from somewhere.
I've also got that thing where the compressor runs whilst stopped at the lights, and it goes off as soon as you take your foot off the brake. I remember Wammers having a cow about the two things not being connnected, but it's deffo a thing on my car. Does that suggest anything?
The valve block is a recent refurb with X8R parts, compressor a year old, all pipework is almost new, but the height sensors and ECU are 1997 originals....
RangeRoller dt
Well-Sprung Member
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Where it does a little dance as you stop at lights? Usually too much of a difference in bit count across the axle between height settings (L/R)
Datatek
Well-Known Member
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A leaking tank is s definite possibility, or the line to the tank. Check the valve block exhaust for air coming out when it shouldn't and also check for white powder in the filter. If you didn't replace the dryer when you did the valve block, it may be breaking up and clogging the valves.
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Does the pressure switch definitely change state ?
Another path for tank leak is via NRV-1 & out the exhaust silencer when the pump is off & diaphragm open.
Another path for tank leak is via NRV-1 & out the exhaust silencer when the pump is off & diaphragm open.
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I've just been up and calibrated the system. The values had drifted somewhat.... Anyway, we're where we should be based on the calibration blocks now. I've done a trace, and a couple of high speed runs up and down the bypass...
I don't suppose you could convert it in to a nice graph could you @pwood999 ...?
https://we.tl/t-MmWp6SsZOK
I put a balloon over the exhaust and it didn't inflate whilst stood. Only when trying to level itself when I shut the boot.
Line to the tank is pretty new, and I put it in conduuit this time.... but of course, it may still be holed!
Lastly, maybe my new compressor is FUBAR? I'd be pretty annoyed if it was, it's not that old, but I did have a leak to rear right for a while so that may have shafted it!
I don't suppose you could convert it in to a nice graph could you @pwood999 ...?
https://we.tl/t-MmWp6SsZOK
I put a balloon over the exhaust and it didn't inflate whilst stood. Only when trying to level itself when I shut the boot.
Line to the tank is pretty new, and I put it in conduuit this time.... but of course, it may still be holed!
Lastly, maybe my new compressor is FUBAR? I'd be pretty annoyed if it was, it's not that old, but I did have a leak to rear right for a while so that may have shafted it!
Last edited:
Grrrrrr
Technician, Bodgit & Scarper Ltd
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Heights have to be within default ranges. They're on here somewhere. Height sensors should change values smoothly across the ranges too
After that it seems if the target and actual are a long way apart across an axle it causes issues. Might be calibration has gone out for some reason. Blocks are more reliable and don't require level ground. Just average values across the axle for each target height: it isn't that sensitive. If the tracks are a bit worn maybe add a few bits to standard and subtract a few for motorway heights.
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The pressure switch is always open, so it looks like the pump never achieves required pressure. If the system isn't leaking then the pump needs a refurb again.
TBH, I have found the refurb kits never seem to last as long as they used to (both X8R and 4x4airseals)
TBH, I have found the refurb kits never seem to last as long as they used to (both X8R and 4x4airseals)
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Hmmm. Only stopped by the thermal cut out! I think it is a bit rattly too. Maybe I've fried it. I can put a pressure guage on it and see whats what when I get a mo.
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+1 on pressure gauge - directly on the pump should be >>>> 150psi.
Also check the pump 12V feed. If there's any voltage loss (even 0.5-1.0V makes a difference) through that connector the pump can struggle. Remember it pulls 10-15A unless the piston seal is really loose.
Also check the pump 12V feed. If there's any voltage loss (even 0.5-1.0V makes a difference) through that connector the pump can struggle. Remember it pulls 10-15A unless the piston seal is really loose.
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BTW, treat Nanocom EAS recordings as a genral guide, not an accurate indication of what's happening. The EAS data rate is far too slow to give a realistic picture, because by the time Nanocom reads the values, the ECU have already reacted & changed things. Diagnostic data probably gets lwer priority than suspension control (assuming the SW is sensible).
For example I have seen many cases where it shows Inlet & Exhaust valves open at the same time, which cannot (or should not) happen, or it would drain the tank. I've also seen recordings with exhaust & corners open, but heights go up.
For example I have seen many cases where it shows Inlet & Exhaust valves open at the same time, which cannot (or should not) happen, or it would drain the tank. I've also seen recordings with exhaust & corners open, but heights go up.
