Eas leaks

hi guys my suspension keeps going down to bump stops when left over night and some times most of the air is tank is gone aswel

i have replaced all four air springs recently checked all springs and pipes connecting to them at each spring they are not leaking

i have checked the tank and pipes to it and the drain plug

also the pipes going into the valve block and dryer

they are all ok aswel i checked all lines with soapy water

would the last thing that could be causing the leak be? the internal o rings or is there any thing else that can cause it cheers

Are you parking on rough uneven ground or with one wheel up a kerb or something? If so it could be the self levelling matching that one and lowering the whole thing. Does it do it if you park it in a different place for any length of time? Otherwise faulty pump or a leak you have missed. Was it like that before you did the air springs?

yeah i changed it as a spring had a hole in it..

i park it on a level surface most of the time and it loses air when it wants

i checked the pump the seal is still good as it was replaced about 5months ago

the pump does keep stopping and starting i guess this is due to air lost

The pump starting and stopping is normal. It's when they run continuously you have a problem.
When you park it up overnight, remove the large relay under the passenger seat. This will stop the system self levelling. If your suspension is still up in the morning, you'll know it's not that. If it's down on one corner, you'll know which direction to look for the leak.

hi guys i have noticed if you leave it on the highest setting it wont go down and you can just drop it from the top setting to normal and drive on

but if you leave it on the normal setting it will drop down to the lowest and needs to raise up again


i have cleared the fault twice both times it come up with FR VAVLE STUCK CLOSED

would that be a faulty vavle or something else could cause that

if you just keep it at the highest setting every time you park and lower it when you leave it stays fine

i have fitted x new bags and new seal and diapgram i have checked for leaks there are none

I have been having trouble with my eas for the last few months and decided to sort it out. so i changed all 4 springs air drier and rebuilt valve block and new seal and piston cylinder all in i recon i spent £300 and 8 hours work. Now all is well mine used to self level to the bump stops i could hear it waste all the valuable air i believe down to a slightly leaking bag i do park on a slope which even now the car drops but comes up instantly on start up where as before it would take 1-10 mins

hi guys i have noticed if you leave it on the highest setting it wont go down and you can just drop it from the top setting to normal and drive on

but if you leave it on the normal setting it will drop down to the lowest and needs to raise up again


i have cleared the fault twice both times it come up with FR VAVLE STUCK CLOSED

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When you've been leaving it (as a test) did you remove the timer relay under the passenger seat? If it stays up at the normal setting with the relay removed, you must have a leak. Otherwise, with the relay in, it sounds like it's self levelling. Combined with the fact that it stays up on the highest setting could mean you may have a worn height sensor - it's detecting what it thinks is one corner lower than the other when they actually aren't.

You say you've cleared the fault twice - exactly when does the fault come up?

hi mate i didn't remove the timer relay

the error comes up after the pumps been running for a while, when its trying to go up from bump stops

il try and test it with the relay removed

Mine has a habit of creeping up to the high setting itself usually after it returns from the motorway setting. It seems like it forgets to stop at the normal height and ends up tip-toeing through the town until I press the down arrow a couple of times. I suspect a height sensor as no faults are showing up. Although there was one once that said the connections to the reservoir were needing a clean.

Ok, Does it actually start to raise up (get half way etc) when the fault comes up?
The fault message "FR Valve Stuck Closed" can mean a variety of things. The system is saying really that the Front Right hand corner (offisde front) is not raising up to the level it expects it to. This could be due to
1) It physically isn't raising up due to
a) bad leak letting the air out on that corner
b) The solenoid valve for that corner not opening
2) It is physically raising up but the ECU thinks it isn't due to a defective height sensor. The height sensor could have a small 'dead' patch when it's at normal operating height which could also account for it self levelling overnight when it's on level ground. It would also account for it not self levelling when you're at extended height as then the height sensor would be at a different (ie not often used) position which the ECU reads OK and so thinks everything is ticketyboo and doesn't self level as it doesn't think it needs to.
So, if it doesn't go down overnight with the relay removed, it's self levelling probaly due to a duff height sensor. Only sure way is to look at the readings on a diagnostic such as Faultmate / Testbook etc. If you change the height sensor, you'll have to do this anyway to calibrate it.
Hope this helps.

Derek Ward said:

Ok, Does it actually start to raise up (get half way etc) when the fault comes up?

Hope this helps.

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the fault some times comes up when its lifted up a bit

or some times when its not doing anything jus the pump is on and no lifting

il check with the relay out see how it goes

also i got the eas cable and software to calibrate it

would the sensors need a clean?

The sensors themselves are sealed units. If it's worn on the track inside, it'll need replacing. You can however clean the connectors. These can get moisture inside causing corrosion. Nothing lost there.
If you have the software etc (RSW Solutions?), you can do a test by either disconnecting the sensor and moving it up and down whilst watching the screen or jacking the car up, support the chassis on axle stands and then jack the axle up and down. Or just put a multimeter across the pins on the connector on 2 and 1 or 2 and 3.
You can also do this at the connector to the ECU between pin 24 (Common return) and pin 23 for the right front sensor (22 for right rear, 5 for left front & 4 for left rear). What you're looking for is a SMOOTH variation in resistance or change in values on the software i.e. no jumps. With the software though, you should be able to monitor the actual values as it's rising and see any bad spots as they happen. I just hope I'm not sending you off on a wild goose-chase! Good luck.