P38A EAS have checked all the fuses

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Baileyroverq

Active Member
Posts
167
Location
Woodley Berks
hi sorry about the his but could some body please help me I recently changed the glow plugs on the 2.5 dse and everything was fine next day on the way to work slow 35 mph came on the dash and car went down to bump stops I have put nanocom and RSW solutions EAS unlock but have no faults found
When I start the engine the compressor is silent I have checked all the fuses and they are sound even bought a new relay 20 but still nothing when I put a lead from 12 v to the relay socket the compressor kicks in straight away have tried to see if whilst doing the glow plugs I disturbed anything but nothing obvious so I have now retaken the inlet manifold off to check underneath for anything amiss and am planning on going back out in the morning for a look around in the daylight again any ideas would be really appreciated many thanks in advance for your patience whilst reading this
 
hi sorry about the his but could some body please help me I recently changed the glow plugs on the 2.5 dse and everything was fine next day on the way to work slow 35 mph came on the dash and car went down to bump stops I have put nanocom and RSW solutions EAS unlock but have no faults found
When I start the engine the compressor is silent I have checked all the fuses and they are sound even bought a new relay 20 but still nothing when I put a lead from 12 v to the relay socket the compressor kicks in straight away have tried to see if whilst doing the glow plugs I disturbed anything but nothing obvious so I have now retaken the inlet manifold off to check underneath for anything amiss and am planning on going back out in the morning for a look around in the daylight again any ideas would be really appreciated many thanks in advance for your patience whilst reading this

Read my EAS how to in Tech archive. How to check thermal switch.
 
Thanks mate just read it will give it a go in the morning and let you know
By the way if the switch is duff does it mean a new compressor ?

No a new switch if everything else is ok. But you need a bit of nous to fit it. Finding why it failed would be good, maybe compressor is getting tired. But you will only know than when you strip it. Could be just a solder joint. Could be brush gear is worn causing heat. Could be rear bearing coming adrift. Could be more likely compressor is feeding a leak. So lots of options.
 
Hi wammers
Ok still have EAS fault on nanocom it says invalid fault code today tried the thermal switch got resistance ok pressure switch was giving an open reading when cold but when I ran the compresser manually I could not get it into a closed state even though compressor was running I just cannot get air into the tank for some reason I had a look in the ECU to see that it was all connected ok and tried to get it work by jumping the pins 10 -26 and11-27 this gave some hope as the car raised up to access height I drove it to see if that would get it going up to standard and it did but then went back into fault mode again and I could not replicate it
 
Hi wammers
Ok still have EAS fault on nanocom it says invalid fault code today tried the thermal switch got resistance ok pressure switch was giving an open reading when cold but when I ran the compresser manually I could not get it into a closed state even though compressor was running I just cannot get air into the tank for some reason I had a look in the ECU to see that it was all connected ok and tried to get it work by jumping the pins 10 -26 and11-27 this gave some hope as the car raised up to access height I drove it to see if that would get it going up to standard and it did but then went back into fault mode again and I could not replicate it

Have you read the How to? Do the compressor checks. Invalid fault means nothing.
 
Hi yes I read the the compressor check and watched the videos by storey Wilson do you think it could be that the ECU is shutting down the EAS due to battery drain as now I think about it when I had the ECU out and checked it and the EAS seemed to be ok it was when I braked that it went back into fault mode
 
Hi yes I read the the compressor check and watched the videos by storey Wilson do you think it could be that the ECU is shutting down the EAS due to battery drain as now I think about it when I had the ECU out and checked it and the EAS seemed to be ok it was when I braked that it went back into fault mode

EAS operation is cancelled when brakes are applied until they are released or after two minutes with foot on pedal.. What you have is a new one on me if you have checked everything out. Check the white plug and socket behind trim passenger side footwell, at base of A post. Check for water damage and corrosion.
 
I have tried a known good compressor and relay from a working vehicle ie my 4.6 p38 in the wife's 2.5 dse and i put the wife's in mine and also checked the relay 20 by swapping them over all work on my car but not on wife's and am now getting a clicking from the fuse box when relay 20 is inserted in the 2.5 dse should I be thinking ECU now ? Oh and I checked the white plug and socket and all looks clean
 
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I have tried a known good compressor and relay from a working vehicle ie my 4.6 p38 in the wife's 2.5 dse and i put the wife's in mine and also checked the relay 20 by swapping them over all work on my car but not on wife's and am now getting a clicking from the fuse box when relay 20 is inserted in the 2.5 dse should I be thinking ECU now ? Oh and I checked the white plug and socket and all looks clean

Swap the ECUs over and see what you get. Sometimes the ECU functionality can be effected by a faulty driver pack. If both ECUs work on the 4.6 but the 4.6 doesn't work on the 2.5 then look at that. It is an anomaly, although the driver pack has nothing to do with the compressor operation a duff one can confuse the ECU and cause problems.
 
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