EAS Hard Fault Argent PLS

Hi everyone, here I am in Beautiful Caribean Island and my RR p38A has EAS hard Fault with max 35mph message desplaid. little bit background information: I was told by meckanic that air dryer was leacking and I needed to change it so brought with me from London and on my jurny from airport to home suspension has droped down and compressor would not start at all, message came up and all the lights were flashing and than remained stady. same mekanic came and he run the wire from fuse to the compressor directly as the pump was not getting any electrical supply, compressor start working and suspension gon up but it onlu lasted for one day and car went down complitely on bumper stopers. when conect the compressor to the direct electrical sapply it looks like is working but nothing is hapaning to the car. same time tailgate switch was giving me trables, it was not oppening the lock but after try and try than it would start workingagain, so i got new switch and changed it but when suspenssion gon down same time switch has gave up. unfortunately no one in aisland have testbook or appropriate saftware to detect the problem and parts is very difficult to get as well. my questions are as follows:
1. do you think tailgate swich is part of the problem or co-incidence?
2. do you think pumo is faulty even it looks like is working when jumpwired?
3. if EAS is locked the system do you think this can explain why compressor does not geting any power?
I have ordered EAS dyagnostic saftwear and cable and should get some time nect week.
please advice me as you guy's are best I have as mekanics here have no clue, my car is more clever than them, (sorry locals but it is true)
many thanks

With the EAS in hard fault mode the compressor will not operate. Also if it only stayed up for a day it could be that you have bad leak somewhere. This is difficult to test with no air in it.
If you are able to jumper the relay to operate the pump then you could try performing the tests in the "How to" section at the top of the forum. This is a good starting point.
If you do get the pump activated and it passes the tests above you could leave the pump running for 10 mins to let the tank pressurise. If (big if) the system does rise then you could try pulling the EAS relay under the passenger seat that way it will only drop down to the bumps if you have an airbag leak rather than the EAS system forcing it down.

Most likely the airsprings are leaking, they have a life of 7/8 years 80K miles probably less in the tropics. The compressor will not run with the "Slow 35mph" message on the display. That is a hard fault. If you read the faults with the EAS software let us know what the faults are, then unlock the software and the compressor should run. See if the same fault comes back as it could be a height sensor. You can probably get the airbags cheaper from the USA than the UK.

thanks so much, i got saftwear today and will let you know what will happens, til later
does any one know how heavy airsprings are?

Hi, I done eas unlock and following messages came up:
6.RR Signal Incorrect
4. Air Supply Fault
7. Vehicle Has Moved
2.RL Valve stuck Closed
I have cleared the faults and 35mph message has gone, car started to rise but FR side was struggling and could not cope with other ones, all the sides were uneven so I tried to do it manually using the computer but when i was pressing FR "up" I could here click by solenoid but no changes, RR and RL was making same click sound but after I could see car was rising and by pressing "down" it was going down, I did leak test as recommended with soap water on top of the airsprings, top of the air dryer, on the side of the valve block but could not see any leak, I raised the car as much as it could and left it overnight to see if it will leak, I removed the delay timer from left passenger side (otherwise car was deflating on one side). please any advice will be much appreciated, I have no mechanic for RR where I am and also I have to order parts from USA or UK.

OK forget the first three faults and judging by the 4th fault and the droping corner you have a possible faulty solinoid {round thing on top of valve block, big thing alongside pump] or the valve block could need new O rings and rebuild both are available check this site. re check thouroughly, the air bags if not leaking at the collet/ pipe entry
they mostly leak around the bottom when inflated you may see cracks at the bases.
Allowabout allow about one kilogram per air spring in parcel.Good luck.PS unless you know what your doing my advice is do not operate or set heights hights via the EAS unlock software wait until you have owned it a bit longer you will catch on then also study this site's blogs and you will learn an awful lot I know by experience.

Go get RAVE available on the NET Range Rover CD rom workshop manual and give to your Mechanics.

A faulty solenoid is very rare, it will not be that. You have a RR height sensor fault and a lack of air pressure which would indicate the compressor is not working well, probably due to leaky airsprings or a leaky diaphragm in the valve block.
Do the compressor test, see the "How to" section at the top of the page.
Vehicle has moved just means the car has dropped, RL valve stuck closed means that corner did not rise when it should probably due to a leak or lack of air pressure.

Thank you very much for your help, I know I put this message more then one place but I was not sure if I would get reply, desperation , I am going to check the car today myself and diagnose the problem, wish me luck, car has not dropped in high from last night, so I am suggesting air bags is not leaking, am I correct?? I am going to check RR sensor, regarding "o" rings, if I do not have repair kit can any "o" ring will do from hardware store or are they specific and so I need to order?? if it is solinoid, do I replace it completely or just a "o" ring? Is there test to check if it is really solinoid? as I need to order items each will take about 3-5 days to come so I would prefare to diagnose 100% all parts and order together. many thanks again and will update on this tread only

tolia5 said:

Thank you very much for your help, I know I put this message more then one place but I was not sure if I would get reply, desperation , I am going to check the car today myself and diagnose the problem, wish me luck, car has not dropped in high from last night, so I am suggesting air bags is not leaking, am I correct?? I am going to check RR sensor, regarding "o" rings, if I do not have repair kit can any "o" ring will do from hardware store or are they specific and so I need to order?? if it is solinoid, do I replace it completely or just a "o" ring? Is there test to check if it is really solinoid? as I need to order items each will take about 3-5 days to come so I would prefare to diagnose 100% all parts and order together. many thanks again and will update on this tread only

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Air spring leaks open and close as the bottom folds under, they may well not leak when in the high position but leak at standard height.
Forget the solenoid, it really is unlikely to be the solenoid as you seem to be able to get the car to rise.
There are a large number of "O" rings in the valve block of different sizes, you will also need to replace the diaphragm if you are overhauling the valve block. You can order the "O" ring set and diapragm from symlise on Ebay.
You may find the valve block is full of white powder from the air dryer dessicant breaking up, this can also cause problems.

Hi Datatek, thanks for reply, I took down the valve block and followed the instruction from the website, "o" rings looking ok to me but I will still change them, I did compressor check and it is sucking the air but when i disconnected the blue hose and pressed the finger I could force to close it so I dont know if I am pressing to strong or compressor is not blowing strong. I am going to attache to the pressure gauge and see if it blows 170psi, if it does not can I repare it or do I need to get new one? many thanks again, much upresiated as I dont have here anyone to even share my thoughts.

little update, I checked the valve block and I found that one of the so cold mechanic has swapped the solinoid valve so I changed it and car is rising now, few problems still, yesterday left side was up and right side was down but now right side is up and left is collapsing when car is parked, also when I drive pump comes on and of, my question is
1. how often does pump comes on ? is it normal?
2. is there any way I can find if solinoid covers are in correct order or it does not make any difference? as the mechanic made mistake with solinoid i would not be surprise if he mixed them as well. thanks

tolia5 said:

little update, I checked the valve block and I found that one of the so cold mechanic has swapped the solinoid valve so I changed it and car is rising now, few problems still, yesterday left side was up and right side was down but now right side is up and left is collapsing when car is parked, also when I drive pump comes on and of, my question is
1. how often does pump comes on ? is it normal?
2. is there any way I can find if solinoid covers are in correct order or it does not make any difference? as the mechanic made mistake with solinoid i would not be surprise if he mixed them as well. thanks

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Solenoids have to be in the correct order.

any idea of the correct order? I think actual solinoids are in correct order as I followed the diagram but I am not to sure about the covers ( black cylinders DUNLOP written on them)
any advice?

I found[ Hardrange.com ] Hard Range Australia the best for the valve block kit they have very good instructions and pictures for us non mechanics They also supply two types of diaphragm one developed by them and it is better than the standard one which is also inc.kit is about $44Aus.
For your repairs on the pump I found LandRoverwinkel - 's-Hertogenbosch - +31 73 7850580 thier EAS pump kit is top quality and is stated to be the best. I belive them as I have used it, you can order online.

pete38 said:

I found[ Hardrange.com ] Hard Range Australia the best for the valve block kit they have very good instructions and pictures for us non mechanics They also supply two types of diaphragm one developed by them and it is better than the standard one which is also inc.kit is about $44Aus.
For your repairs on the pump I found LandRoverwinkel - 's-Hertogenbosch - +31 73 7850580 thier EAS pump kit is top quality and is stated to be the best. I belive them as I have used it, you can order online.

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The second one is the source of the Dutch compressor seal which is know to fail on a regular basis.

tolia5 said:

any idea of the correct order? I think actual solinoids are in correct order as I followed the diagram but I am not to sure about the covers ( black cylinders DUNLOP written on them)
any advice?

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They are the solenoid coils with the wires coming out of them are they not? Got to be in the right order or the ECU has no clue what is going on

I have had the Dutch seal and the cylinder stated to be the 3rd generation for quite some time
and the pump has never been so good.maybe you had better try it?

pete38 said:

I have had the Dutch seal and the cylinder stated to be the 3rd generation for quite some time
and the pump has never been so good.maybe you had better try it?

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Have done it fail after two months. As have many others. Mostly in the cold weather last year. although to be honest think that was the one they described as second generation. Maybe they have gone back to origional OEM compound that appears to last 8 or 10 years.

Quite likely its better weather over here everything lasts longer.

Hi everyone and thanks for support, I got the cd and cable from UK and it did the job, after cleared the faults and open the valve block, car is ok for now. valve block "o" rings were ok, i did not have kit so I could not change them but next time I will, I cleaned them and replaced as they were, also found my so called mechanic put selonoids wrong way . I used the diagram and found correct way, now car is better, in future I will replace airbags and sensors as well as "0" ring and get the new pump, this should sort my problems for next 5 years, fingers cross. if any questions please ask and I am more than happy to sear my experience based knowledge.
I have another problem , my tailgate switch was not working so I found out that negative is coming from RF door switch, I disconnected all connections from RF door and checked them one by one for continuity and all were good, only reading I did not get was from actual CDL red and black wire, so that were the problem is, but when I reconnect everything back I lost RF door function, no more window and no more door lock via key fob, I can lock it manually but if I also open manually alarm is not activating, I did synchronize the key but it did not help, any suggestions??