P38A EAS Fault

Does it make any difference if the car is on stands at the rear ? The pump has lifted the rear up to high mode but will not adjust. Both fronts are @ 13.5psi and the rears are @ 58 -60 psi.

Radar1946 said:

Does it make any difference if the car is on stands at the rear ? The pump has lifted the rear up to high mode but will not adjust. Both fronts are @ 13.5psi and the rears are @ 58 -60 psi.

Click to expand...

Are the stands under car or axle ?

Also do a screenshot showing all of the EAS Unlock screen. It appears to show good idle, but the RX & TX columns might give a clue.

pwood999 said:

Are the stands under car or axle ?

Also do a screenshot showing all of the EAS Unlock screen. It appears to show good idle, but the RX & TX columns might give a clue.

Click to expand...

The stands are under the axle, I will go and take a photo

Radar1946 said:

Does it make any difference if the car is on stands at the rear ? The pump has lifted the rear up to high mode but will not adjust. Both fronts are @ 13.5psi and the rears are @ 58 -60 psi.

Click to expand...

If the stands are holding the axle above normal height it will certainly have an effect if only due to weight transfer to the front.

Does this help any.?

You need to get "Status = Good Idle" when you click Connect. Without this, the errors are just bad communication.

Before using the software it's always best to fill the tank with air. If necessary, bridge the compressor relay for 5-7 minutes.

-------
After you connect & get good idle, click "Unlock EAS".
Then click "Stop". Then switch off ignition, then disconnect the cable & allow the ECU to sleep for about 30-60 seconds.
-------
Next re-connect the cable. Switch ignition on, and click Initialise.
Wait for Good Idle, and then read faults.

Hi, I have managed to get the connection between the car and the EASunlock diagnostic tool. The readings are on the photos are they anywhere near what they should be.? I tried the heights on the EASunlock and they would go up or down ok. The suspension will not change the heights, the light is flashing to say it is moving to another height but just keeps flashing. Also I parked out side the shops and it went to Extended on its own and it would not go down to any other height. I have valves on the pipes so I can blow them up if needed. The pressure reading on 3 is 51psi and 1 is 35psi so the o/s/r must have a slight leak overnight. It's driving me mad my wife and I have both got hospital appointments next week. Could I use it as long as it is not on the buffers ?

No fault codes reading.

First pic shows fronts are way too low, but rear is approx. correct Standard height.

Second pic shows ECU targets are all typical & within the range they should be. Assuming all doors & tailgate are closed & the tank has plenty of air, just click on the Pink Standard button and it should adjust ? At the same time as clicking, you should see the command being sent in the TX box.

You can use the valves, but while you pump each corner, have EAS Unlock showing the first screen. Pump (or release) the air until the heights are about Standard. As long as the leak is slow (>> hours) it should be ok for short journeys.

We (well main M) drove for a while using the valves as I was working away also waiting on parts, so no issue.

pwood999 said:

First pic shows fronts are way too low, but rear is approx. correct Standard height.

Click to expand...

Surely its time to physically measure them to confirm that?

Radar1946 said:

I tried the heights on the EASunlock and they would go up or down ok. The suspension will not change the heights, the light is flashing to say it is moving to another height but just keeps flashing

Click to expand...

Normally I would say the compressor is weak if the lights are flashing but nothing is happening. but as you have a new compressor and it will change heights from the RSW suite buttons, something else is going on.
What I dont know. but somebody here will. Dodgey footwell connectors maybe?

J

marjon said:

We (well main M) drove for a while using the valves as I was working away also waiting on parts, so no issue.



Surely its time to physically measure them to confirm that?



Normally I would say the compressor is weak if the lights are flashing but nothing is happening. but as you have a new compressor and it will change heights from the RSW suite buttons, something else is going on.
What I dont know. but somebody here will. Dodgey footwell connectors maybe?

J

Click to expand...

+1 to dodgy connectors in the passenger side at the bottom of the A post behind the plastic trim. A regular cause of problems.
They should be cut out, soldered and heat shrinked one wire at a time.

I am going through the archive made by the late Wammer ( god rest his sole ). I have no air leaks now, no faults but it still has a mind of its own. Only goes up or down on the EASunlock. I am looking for the white wires that are behind the passenger footwell cover. There are loads of wires, do I just cut all the white ones on the plug & socket ?. I can not make my mind up as to whether to drive to hospital tomorrow or pay £55 on a taxi.

Radar1946 said:

I am going through the archive made by the late Wammer ( god rest his sole ). I have no air leaks now, no faults but it still has a mind of its own. Only goes up or down on the EASunlock. I am looking for the white wires that are behind the passenger footwell cover. There are loads of wires, do I just cut all the white ones on the plug & socket ?. I can not make my mind up as to whether to drive to hospital tomorrow or pay £55 on a taxi.

Click to expand...

Drive, you have a little portable compressor, no issue.

J

Radar1946 said:

I am going through the archive made by the late Wammer ( god rest his sole ). I have no air leaks now, no faults but it still has a mind of its own. Only goes up or down on the EASunlock. I am looking for the white wires that are behind the passenger footwell cover. There are loads of wires, do I just cut all the white ones on the plug & socket ?. I can not make my mind up as to whether to drive to hospital tomorrow or pay £55 on a taxi.

Click to expand...

Cut one wire at a time from the white plug and white socket, solder the ends together and insulate with glue filled heat shrink.
I'd chance driving it.

Datatek said:

Cut one wire at a time from the whit plug and white socket, solder the ends together nd insulate with glue filled heat shrink.
I'd chance driving it.

Click to expand...

+1 on this. Do the hospital trip first. Then do connectors in L & R footwells like this:

Ok thanks, I thought it was only 3 white wires that needed joining, I must have read it wrong somewhere. I have two white connectors on the left side panel, do I remove both ?

Radar1946 said:

Ok thanks, I thought it was only 3 white wires that needed joining, I must have read it wrong somewhere. I have two white connectors on the left side panel, do I remove both ?

Click to expand...

Yes

Many Thanks.

some are used for EAS. Others are door amps & locking. All of them corrode where the contacts are crimped to the copper.

when you strip the wires for soldering check if the copper is green, black If so clean them before soldering.
https://www.instructables.com/How-to-perfectly-clean-wires-in-minutes/

I Have gone through Wammers archive and done as much as my old brain understands. The suspension will now go up or down but it takes ages for the light to stop flashing. On the easunlock should the 2 heights be locked or unlocked