Eas fault can any body help plz

pandy7203 said:

Put the laptop on to my p38 dse
fault reading was
presure signal constantly high

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kooky_guy said:

This is a fairly common fault message that doesn't really tell you anything helpful. What it's actually saying is that the pressure switch hasn't changed state for a while.

This could be because the pressure switch is duff (apparently very uncommon) or because the pressure isn't getting high enough to trip it. This could be caused by a weak pump or a leak.

Unfortunately the leak could be anywhere so it's a case of going over the whole system with a soapy water spray and searching for bubbles. Plenty of tutorials out there - have a look at rswsolutions.com for hints and videos.

Mine used to come up with this all the time, but changing the airbags seems to have stopped it even though I still have a small leak somewhere.

Guy

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pandy7203 said:

i had a new recontioned pump put on but i have only had this problem since then .i had to put some manual valves on it the other week, when this problem happened it went streight down to the bump stops the first time, the maual vavles was on for two weeks and it never dropped at all ..i cant understand it .could the cruise control cause anythink to do with it cheers andy

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kooky_guy said:

It may be that you have an air leak at the pump then. Or the pump isn't any good. Did it come from somewhere reputable?

The good thing is that the manual inflation valves seem to have vindicated the rest of the system so at least you know that is good.

When it drops to the bump stops, do you get the '35mph max' message come up? Dropping to the bump stops is called a 'hard fault' condition and I wouldn't expect this fault on it's own to trigger this - it should only generate a 'soft' fault which should make the suspension extend to it's highest setting before going into fault mode.

Were there any other errors shown (other than the normal 'vehicle has moved' error)?

Guy

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everlatesparky said:

Mine had exactly this fault....cured it by replacing the driver pack....got a complete compressor box for £75 from a scrappie that didnt know what he had!!!
About £140 from island 4x4 for a new 1.

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everlatesparky said:

Driver pack is bolted to bracket under pump with 4 allen key bolts....small box with fair size loom on it....tried taking pic but too dark 4 phone!

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kooky_guy said:

It gets expensive just replacing parts willy nilly. There are a lot of suppliers out there eager to make a fortune out of eas problems so it's worth thinking the problem through a bit first.

I can't see how the driver pack could cause this problem. The fault implies an air leak or the pump is not providing enough pressure - I don't see how the driver pack could cause this - it just translates the signals from the EAS ECU into voltages suitable for operating the valves in the valve block.

It didn't do it before you changed the pump - so therefore it's most likely to be something associated with that operation - either the new pump is bad (I've heard that some of the 'reconditioned' ones haven't been done very well) or you've got a leak in the pipe connecting the pump.

When it's working, does the suspension rise fairly quickly? That's one way of telling whether the pump is any good.

How regularly do you get the fault?

Guy

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pandy7203 said:

Reset the eas with lappy and its great, all as it shud be but...... seems to go back into fault mode after doin around 50 mile ish on runs, could it be the ecu losing sync?

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kooky_guy said:

Sounds like it's going back into fault mode because there is a fault.
You've either got a leak or your new pump isn't working properly although if it's lifting ok as you say then this sounds unlikely.

I suppose it's possible your pressure switch is buggered, but considering the problem only started after you changed the pump it's more likely to be related to that.

Have you looked for leaks yet?

Guy

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Irishrover said:

As Kooky has posted, suggest you firstly check for leaks. If all seems good, remove the compressor and check the condition of the piston seal, if that looks ok, next step is to check the operation of the pressure switch with a multimeter, it should have 12V at both pins when the system is up to pressure.

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