eas fails when reved above 2000rpm

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kenneth01

New Member
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5
After a series of faults, cured by a new air compressor, I have only had one fault over the last 2 years (fault 27 - vehicle has moved permanent). This always pumps the suspension to full height. Any inputs from the manual switch on the dash suggest the eas is working I.e. target height flashes but nothing happens. Following advice from emmotts of colne I reset ecu by touching the disconnected battery terminals together the after a pause reconnecting. I was able to cure the fault 27 and return the suspension from highest setting back to normal. However after a short triumphant test run the system failed again. Symptoms as follows - system normal hight, no faults, rev to abour 2000rpm, 3 beeps accompanied by message "slow to 50kph" , revs back to idle when all lights come on including dash fault symbol (for about 2 secs), then all go off except the normal height light. This is now solid and can be repeated over and over. Manual override does not work although no faults are indicated. I have a Hawkeye computer to reset faults. Any help welcome. Vehicle (1998 p38, lhd, based in Portugal) is unusable at moment.
 
Vehicle has moved can be ignored, it only means the height has changed. As for revs affecting the EAS, I can only assume there is a bad connection somewhere. Check the earth points on the inner wing between the EAS box and the air filter, also part and remake the connectors in the EAS box for starters.
 
Thanks for input. I have had to return to the uk for a couple of weeks. Before leaving I quickly broke and remade all electrical contacts in valve block and under seat (white) without success. When I get back I will do a more thorough job on earths etc. Re Datatec's response on my fault 27 - just to stress that this immobilises the system at max height and requires resetting with my Hawkeye computer, sometimes it quite a few resets to clear.

K
 
Thanks for input. I have had to return to the uk for a couple of weeks. Before leaving I quickly broke and remade all electrical contacts in valve block and under seat (white) without success. When I get back I will do a more thorough job on earths etc. Re Datatec's response on my fault 27 - just to stress that this immobilises the system at max height and requires resetting with my Hawkeye computer, sometimes it quite a few resets to clear.

K
Fault 27, Vehicle has moved is meaningless, it will recur every time the height changes with ignition off and is normal.
It does not immobilise the vehicle at max height.
 
Thanks for input. I have had to return to the uk for a couple of weeks. Before leaving I quickly broke and remade all electrical contacts in valve block and under seat (white) without success. When I get back I will do a more thorough job on earths etc. Re Datatec's response on my fault 27 - just to stress that this immobilises the system at max height and requires resetting with my Hawkeye computer, sometimes it quite a few resets to clear.

K

It's not the white connectors under the seat that give the problem. Look behind the trim panel at the base of the left hand A post. As i said earlier.
 
Back from another trip. Left p38 stuck at max height before I left a few weeks ago. Still at max height. My Hawkeye (I know, I know) now shows no errors, after me breaking and re-making all electrical connections as advised, but still stuck up. Could it be a height sensor? In desperation I even tried the "temporary" calibration function on Hawkeye to no avail. Is there an easy way to get the suspension down - I could lock it (since it obviously does not leak) and use the vehicle. Thanks for all help so far

kenneth
 
Back from another trip. Left p38 stuck at max height before I left a few weeks ago. Still at max height. My Hawkeye (I know, I know) now shows no errors, after me breaking and re-making all electrical connections as advised, but still stuck up. Could it be a height sensor? In desperation I even tried the "temporary" calibration function on Hawkeye to no avail. Is there an easy way to get the suspension down - I could lock it (since it obviously does not leak) and use the vehicle. Thanks for all help so far

kenneth
You can depressurise with the free EAS software.
 
Thanks. Where can I download/buy eas software. Presumably I will need cable (can I use Hawkeye cable)

k
 
Why don't you do what Wammers says re the white plugs behing the kick panel! you don't mention you have done anything about that yet! you will never solve this with a bit of diagnostic kit. I should know. People seem to think it can be cured with a bit of diagnostics. Diagnostics will point to a problem but not cure it although you will need it to reset.
You say you have: after me breaking and re-making all electrical connections as advised (kick panel plugs)?. But what electrical connectors? You have to give more information.
ps. do remember that you have to have all door closed before the air suspension will work and respond to inputs on the switch. I hope you get to the bottom on this.
 
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Why don't you do what Wammers says re the white plugs behing the kick panel! you don't mention you have done anything about that yet! you will never solve this with a bit of diagnostic kit. I should know. People seem to think it can be cured with a bit of diagnostics. Diagnostics will point to a problem but not cure it although you will need it to reset.
You say you have: after me breaking and re-making all electrical connections as advised (kick panel plugs)?. But what electrical connectors? You have to give more information.
ps. do remember that you have to have all door closed before the air suspension will work and respond to inputs on the switch. I hope you get to the bottom on this.
+1:) also if there is green corrosion in the base of the connectors, making and breaking will do nothing, the connectors may need to be bypassed.
 
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