EAS Bummer

JamesBB said:

Woooooooaaaah, that is cool, an EAS fault thread got me to senior member. :clap2::cool2::scratching_chin::amen:

Click to expand...

Congrats SENIOR. Think you are looking for a bad connection that makes and breaks in it's own time. Maybe a broken wire. There was a thread a while ago same thing compressor not running think he found a broken wire to thermal switch. But he changed his compressor as i recall.

wammers said:

Congrats SENIOR. Think you are looking for a bad connection that makes and breaks in it's own time. Maybe a broken wire. There was a thread a while ago same thing compressor not running think he found a broken wire to thermal switch. But he changed his compressor as i recall.

Click to expand...

I will check that, thanks for all your help wammers.

JamesBB said:

I will check that, thanks for all your help wammers.

Click to expand...

No problem James. Let us know what you find so it can be added to the data base.

It could be a badly worn commutator on the electric motor that runs the air-pump; if the motor stops on a worn spot the motor will not start until the motor is turned a little (going over a bump will do this, or tapping the motor). Try hot wiring the pump as you have before, but repeat this at least ?20? times. If it fails to re-start once or more you`ve found your bad connection. Taking off the end of the motor is possible, but not easy to replace it, so suggest you only do this as confirmation of diagnosis AFTER getting a replacement!

gtland said:

It could be a badly worn commutator on the electric motor that runs the air-pump; if the motor stops on a worn spot the motor will not start until the motor is turned a little (going over a bump will do this, or tapping the motor). Try hot wiring the pump as you have before, but repeat this at least ?20? times. If it fails to re-start once or more you`ve found your bad connection. Taking off the end of the motor is possible, but not easy to replace it, so suggest you only do this as confirmation of diagnosis AFTER getting a replacement!

Click to expand...

Thanks, but I had checked that and I am pretty sure the motor is ok. When I manually force it to start via the relay 20 method it starts every time without fail. But it is a good point.

I can not do anything with it until sometime next week. One of the front half shaft seals started leaking oil, again. The local LR dealer (they sold it to me with a mini warranty) fixed that for free last year, so they have it again for another fix. Can not complain they are really good, great customer service and have never charged me a penny.

Another update, albeit a little frustrating.......
The car only came back from the workshop (for a half shaft seal repair) on Thursday eve, and with the weather I have not been able to progress the EAS issue.

Had an EAS fault max 35mph message again last night. It was on the bump stops again.
This morning I cleaned the connector blocks in the EAS box and read the faults which were "Vehicle has moved" and "RR valve stuck closed". Unlocked it and all seems ok.

Started the engine, compressor did not come on. Jumped the connection on relay 20 again and compressor comes on. Relay is ok as I can switch the compressor on and off from the software.
Pressurised the system, which took <2 mins, so to me the compressor is ok otherwise it would not pressurise in that time. Unjumpered relay 20.

Squirted soapy water over the pipework at the colletts on the following:
Valve block/EAS box.
Air dryer top and bottom.
Front air bags/springs.
Rear air bags/springs.
No visible signs of air loss at all from any junctions. All pipes look ok, the rear pipes are dirty, but no bubbles around the collett.
Removed exhaust silencer from EAS box, no pressure coming out at all, clean inside and out.
Thermal sensor has been checked, pressure sensor has been checked but only when I know the pressure is too low, therefore it requires the compressor to run.

I read somewhere on another forum that a guy changed the EAS driver unit, it looks like the plastic box under the compressor attached to the right of the valve block. However I doubt this is at fault if all this is doing is energising the valves/solenoids.

Very frustrating. It is at standard ride height now, not sure how long for.
When parked at home it is on gravel/pebbles, relatively level, although not perfect. When switching off and listening out for the valves operating, I normally get half a dozen clicks as it levels, but has normally been ok.

To avoid it self levelling too much I normally drop to access height when parked at home, therefore I have never noticed it drop much before. Previous to this fault it has lifted to normal within seconds of moving.

One final bit of history, it has come up with EAS fault in the past (no surprise there it is a P38), but then it lifted to max height. Switching off and coming back a few mins later the fault cleared itself and it dropped.

Agggggggh! :-(

It just failed again while driving. Exactly the same, although it was running fine at standard height before the beeps and message.

This time it said FR valve stuck closed.

I checked the compressor again. I am getting air pressure from the outlet, but I can put my finger over it and effectively block the outlet with some hard pressing finger pressure. Is that normal? Seems suspicious.

The outlet chamber inside the compressor's head seems to be getting wet. What is causing that?

I can only guess the compressor is at fault in some way, but I do not know how it manages to pressurise the system. The piston, piston seal/ring and cylinder look fine.

Any help most appreciated. :confused2:

JamesBB said:

It just failed again while driving. Exactly the same, although it was running fine at standard height before the beeps and message.

This time it said FR valve stuck closed.

I checked the compressor again. I am getting air pressure from the outlet, but I can put my finger over it and effectively block the outlet with some hard pressing finger pressure. Is that normal? Seems suspicious.

The outlet chamber inside the compressor's head seems to be getting wet. What is causing that?

I can only guess the compressor is at fault in some way, but I do not know how it manages to pressurise the system. The piston, piston seal/ring and cylinder look fine.

Any help most appreciated. :confused2:

Click to expand...

have you thought to put a few drops of air line oil to clean the air system, and drain any moisture in the air lines which could cause rust and fault the system?

john winsemius said:

have you thought to put a few drops of air line oil to clean the air system, and drain any moisture in the air lines which could cause rust and fault the system?

Click to expand...

NEVER EVER put oil of any sort into the system unless you want to completely feck it up.
If you can stop the air coming out of the compressor it is not producing as much pressure as it should

Thanks for advice, so what is the best option a seal kit or a replacement compressor?

Seems strange it failed while at standard ride height so suddenly.
I noted in the heights section of the software, that when I read the heights the FL is higher than the FR, normally higher by 20 or more. Reading the calibrate mode suggests it is set to be slightly different, but not vastly as implied.

Cheers

Noted that reading the heights shows FL at 255, this happened twice, so an error reading that height sensor. Ignored it. Went out for a ride, all is ok while out.
Checked height on return, FL is 131 and FR is 109, RL 91 and RR 94. I will keep an eye on FL height sensor I think, maybe crawl under and see if it can be cleaned.
Checked compressor also, nice and warm, suggested all is ok.

I hate these intermittent (but regular) things.

JamesBB said:

Noted that reading the heights shows FL at 255, this happened twice, so an error reading that height sensor. Ignored it. Went out for a ride, all is ok while out.
Checked height on return, FL is 131 and FR is 109, RL 91 and RR 94. I will keep an eye on FL height sensor I think, maybe crawl under and see if it can be cleaned.
Checked compressor also, nice and warm, suggested all is ok.

I hate these intermittent (but regular) things.

Click to expand...

Either the FL sensor is on it's way out or the conector is corroded. Probably the root cause of all your problems

Datatek said:

Either the FL sensor is on it's way out or the conector is corroded. Probably the root cause of all your problems

Click to expand...

That inspires me with confidence, I will get checking it out for sure. Thanks Datatek

JamesBB said:

That inspires me with confidence, I will get checking it out for sure. Thanks Datatek

Click to expand...

The connector might need more then a squirt with contact cleaner. I used a flattened piece of metal with a piece of paper soaked in contact cleaner pushed in and out a few times before I got a good contact Don't use WD40

Sprayed up, today it seemed ok. Hmmm. I keep an eye on this, too good to be true.

Cheers

More developments....... unfortunately.

I was driving coast bound on the M2 yesterday to visit family over the weekend, suddenly beep beep beep and back to square one. I managed to crawl it to the destination the last 30-40 miles and unlocked the EAS again. Different faults this time, all around the FR sensor.

Today I came out to find it needed pumping up again. Started the engine and the compressor did not run. Did the usual relay trick and jumped the connection with a wire, walked off left it for 2 mins pumping. Came back to remove wire and the wire was red hot, compressor was cold at the crank end, very warm at the other end.

This to me sounds very indicative of a definite compressor fault. Strangely the problem cleared itself again, but I reckon the wiring internal to the compressor is shot, or on the way to being shot.

Will post an update, but looks like I need to buy a new compressor.

goswin at landroverwinkel.nl sent me the latest overhaul kit for trial.No problems with it and there are downloads included for fitting.very clear and easy.If you carnt remove the piston and con rod,the seal can be replaced with them in-situe.

sorry people,didnt read last page,island 4x4 seem cheapest for compressor

Still not got a compressor, mainly as I am checking other aspects also...

Today I had it pumped up and sitting on high height, I left it with the tailgate open (and the engine off) for about 4 to 5 hours. Measured the heights to the arch in each corner at the start of the time, measured again after the 4 to 5 hours. All corners had dropped approx 5mm as near as damn it.

So presuming I should not lose height at all in that time (or is 5mm ok?) there is a very slight air leak, but maybe the air springs are not an issue?

When driving on a long drive, if I stop every 45 mins to an hour and manually run the compressor, all is ok. If I forget, EAS fault. I know I need to get the compressor sorted, just seeing what else may be needed on the shopping list.

Hmmmmmmmm

JamesBB said:

Still not got a compressor, mainly as I am checking other aspects also...

Today I had it pumped up and sitting on high height, I left it with the tailgate open (and the engine off) for about 4 to 5 hours. Measured the heights to the arch in each corner at the start of the time, measured again after the 4 to 5 hours. All corners had dropped approx 5mm as near as damn it.

So presuming I should not lose height at all in that time (or is 5mm ok?) there is a very slight air leak, but maybe the air springs are not an issue?

When driving on a long drive, if I stop every 45 mins to an hour and manually run the compressor, all is ok. If I forget, EAS fault. I know I need to get the compressor sorted, just seeing what else may be needed on the shopping list.

Hmmmmmmmm

Click to expand...

If the air springs are original then odds on they are porous, which is why your compressor is knackered.