EAS Again!

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R

Rachelkgr

Active Member
Posts
715
Location
Manchester
2001.DHSE

Sorry guys, she is not playing ball!

So as you know.

Compressor serviced
New Valve block
Air bags good.

So today, she was slow to rise to height (repeatedly) and the pump, as feared, is running a lot. Read the how to, this would suggest NAV? But that is new? So do I need to check pipes on EAS box for leaks with soapy water, though they looked good.

I did check the big cylinder underneath that has one pipe going to it, wondered if that could be leaking? Put hand on the pipe join, couldn't feel anything or hear anything!

Any advice very welcome.

Rachel
 
Rachelkgr said:
2001.DHSE

Sorry guys, she is not playing ball!

So as you know.

Compressor serviced
New Valve block
Air bags good.

So today, she was slow to rise to height (repeatedly) and the pump, as feared, is running a lot. Read the how to, this would suggest NAV? But that is new? So do I need to check pipes on EAS box for leaks with soapy water, though they looked good.

I did check the big cylinder underneath that has one pipe going to it, wondered if that could be leaking? Put hand on the pipe join, couldn't feel anything or hear anything!

Any advice very welcome.

Rachel
Click to expand...

Something is wrong with the compressor slow to rise is low air pressure. Did you set the valves in the compressor as laid out in my "How to". Have you done the finger blow off test and have you checked the diaphragm valve for leaking in the new block?
 
I think, as I and others have said all along, there is a leak in the system somewhere, either that or the compressor is really not up to scratch, can't see any other options.
 
wammers said:
Something is wrong with the compressor slow to rise is low air pressure. Did you set the valves in the compressor as laid out in my "How to". Have you done the finger blow off test and have you checked the diaphragm valve for leaking in the new block?
Click to expand...

Hey Wammers. I assumed since I fitted all the seals etc in the compressor, that that would be fine. And the new valve block, assumed diaphragm would be good also. I know the pump is sucking, will try the finger over the output to see if I can hold it there. Then the exhaust test. See what's what.......
 
Rachelkgr said:
Hey Wammers. I assumed since I fitted all the seals etc in the compressor, that that would be fine. And the new valve block, assumed diaphragm would be good also. I know the pump is sucking, will try the finger over the output to see if I can hold it there. Then the exhaust test. See what's what.......
Click to expand...
Non return valves in the compressor can also be a problem.
 
Hmmmm sounding more and more like a new compressor? I really thought once I changed all the o rings and piston seal, there was not much else to go wrong?
 
Datatek said:
Not before you have checked the compressor.
Click to expand...

Sorry Keith, am I missing something? I put the seals and piston seal in the compressor. I fitted one of Kurt ' new valve heads. Had a feeling when I serviced it, the car did rise quickly. I'll stick my finger on the output this weekend see if she is still working well. Can't imagine it's the new valve block/diaphragm, that would be unlucky! Will check it all again, sigh!
 
Rachelkgr said:
Sorry Keith, am I missing something? I put the seals and piston seal in the compressor. I fitted one of Kurt ' new valve heads. Had a feeling when I serviced it, the car did rise quickly. I'll stick my finger on the output this weekend see if she is still working well. Can't imagine it's the new valve block/diaphragm, that would be unlucky! Will check it all again, sigh!
Click to expand...
Re-conditioned valve blocks have been known to have leaks, I have done one where the new diaphragm was dodgy, showed up on test on my car before it went anywhere thankfully.
Likewise the 2 little valves in the compressor can also cause problems.
 
Last edited:
Make sure all pipes are fully seated, can slip out a wee bit when pressured up.
Also check all connections with soapy water, remember the drier and tank, use flower sprayer or like.
Should a connection leak, shorten pipe by 5 mm or so, remove sharpness of newly cut with pencil sharpener or like to protect o-rings when inserting.
 
Should stayed on the same thread for reference purposes.

So what was the re con pump like before you changed the v block
I know you seemed to think it ran a lot .

Lock the inibitor switch After the five or so initial minutes with a door open, that you should wait after any decompression/ component change did it work fine. ? Aventuly cut out .... And even if it restarts and you wait it should finally stop the suspension is deactivated vai the open door so its only filling the storage tank
If all stops for long periods you know that your tank is filling up , no major leak . If it is a leak then diagpham to tank pipe feed from tank valve block collets or a nrv valve
If its a little leak then your compressor will stop for as fast at the leak is, bigger more often very very small very seldom and so on.

Now if the compresor stops close doors activate the normal hight button car should rise, if not or problems then you know its not the compresor and its bags lines or valves ect

If so then since you put the new v block on and compresor was good then your starting from scratch first tank then when your certain its full rise and so on ....
 
Last edited:
Druim said:
Make sure all pipes are fully seated, can slip out a wee bit when pressured up.
Also check all connections with soapy water, remember the drier and tank, use flower sprayer or like.
Should a connection leak, shorten pipe by 5 mm or so, remove sharpness of newly cut with pencil sharpener or like to protect o-rings when inserting.
Click to expand...

+1 you beat me to it
 
Druim said:
Make sure all pipes are fully seated, can slip out a wee bit when pressured up.
Also check all connections with soapy water, remember the drier and tank, use flower sprayer or like.
Should a connection leak, shorten pipe by 5 mm or so, remove sharpness of newly cut with pencil sharpener or like to protect o-rings when inserting.
Click to expand...
Be careful if you cut the pipes back, there is a raised coller on the pipe which if you cut too much will prevent it going in fully.
Also try pushing the pipes in when the system is under pressure as they will sometines go in a little more.
 
Grit Valve said:
Should stayed on the same thread for reference purposes.

So what was the re con pump like before you changed the v block
I know you seemed to think it ran a lot .

Lock the inibitor switch After the five or so initial minutes with a door open, that you should wait after any decompression/ component change did it work fine. ? Aventuly cut out .... And even if it restarts and you wait it should finally stop the suspension is deactivated vai the open door so its only filling the storage tank
If all stops for long periods you know that your tank is filling up , no major leak . If it is a leak then diagpham to tank pipe feed from tank valve block collets or a nrv valve
If its a little leak then your compressor will stop for as fast at the leak is, bigger more often very very small very seldom and so on.

Now if the compresor stops close doors activate the normal hight button car should rise, if not or problems then you know its not the compresor and its bags lines or valves ect

If so then since you put the new v block on and compresor was good then your starting from scratch first tank then when your certain its full rise and so on ....
Click to expand...
And if anyone can understand that, they went to a different school to me:rolleyes:
 
OK......so following the HOW TO by Wammers......

Compressor Pump Check....

a) Removed the black round exhaust thingy!! It blow more air out than sucked!!!!! How weird.

b) I removed the blue pipe from the compressor, and COULD hold my finger on it, although it was clearly blowing air out.

So I am guessing, although I serviced the pump, it's still buggered!!

I also,

a) Removed the exhaust with the Compressor running, no air coming out!!! Good news!!
I did get a Whoosh Whoosh sound when I switched off, but assume that is meant to happen.

I sprayed soapy water over the pipe connections, no bubbles, I think I was successful here!!

I have a new dryer to go on this weekend.

So a new compressor??????
 
Rachelkgr said:
OK......so following the HOW TO by Wammers......

Compressor Pump Check....

a) Removed the black round exhaust thingy!! It blow more air out than sucked!!!!! How weird.

b) I removed the blue pipe from the compressor, and COULD hold my finger on it, although it was clearly blowing air out.

So I am guessing, although I serviced the pump, it's still buggered!!

I also,

a) Removed the exhaust with the Compressor running, no air coming out!!! Good news!!
I did get a Whoosh Whoosh sound when I switched off, but assume that is meant to happen.

I sprayed soapy water over the pipe connections, no bubbles, I think I was successful here!!

I have a new dryer to go on this weekend.

So a new compressor??????
Click to expand...

Reed valves in compressor need setting. Replace exhaust O'ring and set blades as described in "How to"
 
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