DSE with possible cracked engine block

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DM68

DM68

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Have noticed that the cars been losing about half a litre of coolant per week recently(last 3 weeks), so had a good look around today,checked everything,hoses,rad,heater o-rings only to find this after removing bottom engine cover:mad:. So the question is, has anyone else ever come across this and apart from new engine is it fixable. On initial look i think i'll have to get a new engine, but can't understand why its cracked because its never overheated or anything in the 2 years that i've owned it .
 

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are you completely sure it is not coming from else where?
 
fanatic said:
are you completely sure it is not coming from else where?
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Yeah completely sure, keep wiping it with a cloth and watched the water appear, thought i was loosing it a first, couldn't believe what i was watching. So wiped it again and within 30 seconds or so the water appeared again. Can't be head cos its alot lower, very confused
 
I've also searched the internet for a few hours before posting this and couldn't find any cases of a diesel with cracked engine block,or none recorded, but some petrols have had this problem,porous blocks or something
 
You need to try and find someone local with a "Cooling system pressure test kit" this allows you to pressurise the cooling system to check/find leaks, but unfortunately its does look like a cracked block being as dampness returns after wiping it dry.

I take it you are referring to the areas outlined in red?
 

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Very unusual for a cast block to crack unless it's been frozen at some stage. Radweld or some other simular product is the only answer, other than a new engine. May cure it for all time, may need renewing now and again as the cracks propogate, they won't get smaller that's for sure.
 
zzr1200 said:
.

I take it you are referring to the areas outlined in red?
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Yeah but just the bottom one,( to be honest didn't know how to outline that area so posted both photos). So looks like i better get some sealer of some form and atlast try it, see how it goes and decide from that. But like i said not one recorded same situation now that is unusual, anyway thanks lads and i'll let you know how it goes, fingers crossed
 
DM68 said:
Yeah but just the bottom one,( to be honest didn't know how to outline that area so posted both photos).
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Sorry to say this, but I'II bet the top one leaks when the engines running and warms up. Thats why the only real way to test is to pressurise the cooling system and check for leaks without the engine running.

Radweld/Witches Brew is the only real way to go, unless you want to fit a New or S/Hand engine block.

Cracked blocks can be repaired but at huge cost.
 
wammers said:
Very unusual for a cast block to crack unless it's been frozen at some stage. Radweld or some other simular product is the only answer, other than a new engine. May cure it for all time, may need renewing now and again as the cracks propogate, they won't get smaller that's for sure.
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Having read what you said again wammers,maybe the last owner put some product/sealer in the engine just before i got it and its only now started to wear off and show up again because like i said its never had a coolant problem until now. If so what a **** :mad:
 
You could probably get those cracks welded up which would cure the issue. But since you'd need to half strip the engine to do it, it'd probably be cheaper to just change the block, unless you have the tools and ability to weld up the motor it'd cost a **** tonne more to get a garage to do it as they'd probably remove the block and ship to to a specialist anyway.

wammers said:
Very unusual for a cast block to crack unless it's been frozen at some stage. Radweld or some other simular product is the only answer, other than a new engine. May cure it for all time, may need renewing now and again as the cracks propogate, they won't get smaller that's for sure.
Click to expand...
Oh yes, RadWeld, nothing quite screams quality like a product that is designed to coagulate being added to a cooling system that goes through intricate plumbing. If you want a clogged up radiator, heater matrix, thermostat, water jacket, water pump, etc. then yes, go ahead, RadWeld that bitch.
 
wonderweld by holts its bright red like industrial floor paint,i noticed some redness on your pics so it might have allready been added but i can assure you it will fix it but for how long is anyones guess but it is meant to be permanant.dont use anything else and follow instructions carefully also if there is any signs of water in oil DO NOT USE.
 
Bix said:
You could probably get those cracks welded up which would cure the issue. But since you'd need to half strip the engine to do it, it'd probably be cheaper to just change the block, unless you have the tools and ability to weld up the motor it'd cost a **** tonne more to get a garage to do it as they'd probably remove the block and ship to to a specialist anyway.


Oh yes, RadWeld, nothing quite screams quality like a product that is designed to coagulate being added to a cooling system that goes through intricate plumbing. If you want a clogged up radiator, heater matrix, thermostat, water jacket, water pump, etc. then yes, go ahead, RadWeld that bitch.
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If applied properly, system flushed out before using. Radweld is as good as anything and will give no ill effects. If your system has not been maintained then you may get problems from adding any substance of this nature. Of course being an IT consultant you will know a lot more about the inner workings of engines and cooling systems than i do. :D:D
 
wammers said:
If applied properly, system flushed out before using. Radweld is as good as anything and will give no ill effects. If your system has not been maintained then you may get problems from adding any substance of this nature. Of course being an IT consultant you will know a lot more about the inner workings of engines and cooling systems than i do. :D:D
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Given the state of modern engines that is probably true, although I imagine what you're trying to knock my opinion based on my current job. Fun fact I worked as a mechanic for a fair few years before I got this gig. I've seen a lot of engines that have had RadWeld poured in them, some more intelligently than others. RadWeld is an evil product, the only reasons I can see it being of use is if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and have to drive out (say the outback). When suggesting RadWeld or similar, at best all you're doing is delaying the fact that some real work needs doing to the engine and at worst causing even more problems.

But what do I know? I'm only an IT Consultant.:boxing:
 
Bix said:
Given the state of modern engines that is probably true, although I imagine what you're trying to knock my opinion based on my current job. Fun fact I worked as a mechanic for a fair few years before I got this gig. I've seen a lot of engines that have had RadWeld poured in them, some more intelligently than others. RadWeld is an evil product, the only reasons I can see it being of use is if you're stuck in the middle of nowhere and have to drive out (say the outback). When suggesting RadWeld or similar, at best all you're doing is delaying the fact that some real work needs doing to the engine and at worst causing even more problems.

But what do I know? I'm only an IT Consultant.:boxing:
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Used properly it is ok. Of course it is better to repair the leak rather than bodge it. But don,t think this bloke has a great deal of choice do you. Maybe you did not work as a mechanic long enough. If i need any advice on IT i'll give you a shout. :D:D
 
Have you thought about trying a 2 part metal putty, mazel metal/ chemical metal. i used it a few years ago on the wife's car on a metal coolant pipe, it set hard in about 2 mins. you can sand paint etc. the repair i did lasted, and no loss of coolant. Worth a try, far cheaper than new block.............
 
lizalandy said:
Have you thought about trying a 2 part metal putty, mazel metal/ chemical metal. i used it a few years ago on the wife's car on a metal coolant pipe, it set hard in about 2 mins. you can sand paint etc. the repair i did lasted, and no loss of coolant. Worth a try, far cheaper than new block.............
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Best of luck with that one, afraid it may end in tears.
 
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