doors on classic

I need to take off the front door on my classic to do some welding - yes more welding , I think these were built from rust!

I looked in the haynes manual at the revision as mine is a 1990 and it said disconnect all wiring , remove the chek pin and revove the circlips from the top of the two hing pins and the door should lift off.

It doesnt.

I couldnt even knock up and out each bottom bottom pin, they wouldnt shift and I dont want to burr them over.They dont look rusty though.

Failing that and against the clock I tried unscrewing the torx screws on the hinges but the plates in the inside of the doors were not fixed in and I nealy lost them-but did just hang on enough to put it all back together.

What should I do , how do you guys get the doors off?

It needs to be quick do do as I have to get them off , weld and get them back on, all in my lunch break

Thanks

John

Do I smell or something? lol

No replies?

i ternd to leave me doors on.Buy a gaylander thems door come off in the rain.

fett said:

Do I smell or something? lol

Click to expand...

A little bit,didnt like to say......

on my 89 classic once circlips removed doors just lift off only pin to knock out is for check strap

forgot to add doors are VERY heavy really needs two people to lift them off

i usually take the doors off complete with the hinges, never had any trouble that way. nothing gets lost, unless you kick the bolts you drop on the floor. and if you open the window before you disconnect the wiring, it makes them very managable, both off and on.

Not got the RAVE cd? Here is what it says about getting the door off

76 CHASSIS AND BODY
22 REPAIR
FRONT DOOR
Service repair no - 76.28.07
Remove
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Open door to be removed.
3. Remove 2 clips securing trim panel to side of
footwell.
4. Locate and disconnect door wiring plugs.
5. Disengage grommets either side of A’ post.
Feed wiring out.
6. Drive out roll pin from door check link.
7. Remove ’C’ clips from hinge pins.
WARNING: Instruction 8 MUST BE carried
out with assistance.
8. Lift opened door off hinge pins.
Refit
9. Reverse removal procedure. Renew clips if worn
or distorted.
10. Open door, connect wiring plugs. Ensure they
locate above trim panel.
11. Check operation of door and lock. If necessary,
adjust door and striker plate.
Adjust
12. Adjust door by shims between hinge and door to
move door forward or rearward in opening.
13. Loosen 6 screws securing hinges to door to
adjust door up and down or in and out of
opening. Tighten to 25Nm.
14. Adjust door lock striker by adding and
subtracting spacing washers or moving in
required direction.
15. Note: If it is necessary to remove hinges from ’A’
post. Refit in exactly same position using same
thickness of shims.

i did mine on my own and ive got to admit it was very very very ****in heavy and i had to get my neighbour to help me re hang...
BE WARNED.....

that was a 2-door too!!

the 2 door was a bit of a lump. but the 4 door aint too bad on your own, even thr rears on my lse i have managed on my own. and no i dont go to the gym.:hysterically_laughi

well I do go to the gym and they wouldnt budge. I couldnt tap up the bottom pin on each hinge which makes me think they are siezed in.

I was thinking if I try it with two peeps but it still wont budge I will take off the door card and then when the backing plates fall off the hinges after I unscrew the torx bolts I can put them back that way. I just hope I can get that and the welding done and put back in an hour.

Thanks for the cd excert, it is exactly what it says in the Haynes manual.

the pins dont move. they are part of hinge bolted to pillar same as on p38 doors.

How about jacking them? Slow and steady might just do it!