door top replacement.

next job on the list is to make me ol girl watertight, i dont mean nappies for me gran (or the mrs cos were only young!) but i mean door tops for the landy!

basically i have the full old top glass n all, it is just that the frame has rotted away and was flappin like our lass at the autojumble so it had to go!
what would i need to replace, the glass is ok but would i need just the rubbers, what comes with the door tops from paddoks?
is it just a case of puttin new rubbers and me glass in to the new top or is there more to it? forgive the maybe dumb question but i have never done it before and as with so much on this landy there is more often more to it than meets the eye!

no hoper said:

what would i need to replace, the glass is ok but would i need just the rubbers, what comes with the door tops from paddoks?
is it just a case of puttin new rubbers and me glass in to the new top or is there more to it?

Click to expand...

If funds are not the issue just buy the new glazed door tops complete, I tried before to remove glass and ended cracking one, not much to be saved buying all the individual bits and pcs, just unbolt old one and refit new one, 20 minutes.

buy complete ones!!

two bolts rubber off and off they go but you will need to paint um first i think!!

10 min

looks like im gonna have to spend more money then! cheeres guys.

Bound to be easier to fit complete but fitting new glass channel is easy enough and the guys at the series 3, 90 and 110 owners club (dont think they wanted to exclued anyone) have some plastic channel that actually works...or so they say.

Think I'd miss my little moss garden though, got some rare species and they're so good at keeping my right elbow damp at all times....

and before fitting the door tops, fill them with Wayoil through the window catch hole and rotate to ensure it goes all the way round, then allow to drain...........door tops seem to always rot from the inside out

i've found on a couple of occasions that if you leave the window open and slam the door the glass panel will remove it's self with ease! you've just got to catch it!

do the new door tops come with moss or would you have to get that from your old ones as well??

doobie said:

do the new door tops come with moss or would you have to get that from your old ones as well??

Click to expand...

smear with B&Q patio mosskiller every three months........... seems to be keeping it at bay

FFs

Don't waste you money on buying a new complete door top unless your glass is Fooked

1. Carefully remove the old glass and ally trim kit.
2. Buy new unglazed door top (Pads / Crads 20 ish quid) + channel kit (Pads supply pre cut it)
3. Paint new door top.
4. Fit window lock
5. Fit static pain with normal window glazing putty (from B+Q)
6. Fit ally trim kit and channel with self tapers or pot rivets.
Tip
When fitting the new channel don't try and line up with the
old holes just drill new ones through the channel into the door top.

7. Bend the top channel open (the part that overlaps the static pain)
8. pop in sliding piece and bend channel back to hold it.

Why bend the channel out then back when you can just fit all the channels bar the top one and then with the glass seated in the bottom channel fit the top one to the glass and tilt it back into place. Then just slide the glass to one side and screw one end in and then slide the glass over to the other side to do the other side.

Sam.

cos he did it a year ago?

Have ye got yer old door tops off? Mine were a reet bastid! They had rotted so much that they just crumbled at the bottom leaving the threaded bolt bit stuck in the door bottom. These turned out to be rusted in place solid and still wouldn't shift after a couple of weeks soaking in diesel, sas, witches **** and the like. Even tried heat but only a little so I didn't melt the door skin. In the end, I'd battered them with a punch so much that the tubes that the threaded bars ran in were ripped out of the doors. I had to take the galvanised capping off the door and carefully amputate the tubes out of the door frame. With them removed, I was able to heat them with gas until they glowed, hold them in a vice and then lay into them with a punch. Still it was hard work but I shifted the remains of the thread and loads of rusted crap-can't believe how the door tops had remained attached when I saw how thin the threads had rotted down to. With the tubes cleared, I then very carefully gas welded them back into the door frames taking great care not to melt the door skin or damage the exterior paint. Then I just smoothed the welds down, riveted the capping in place and fitted new door tops from paddocks (which I reglazed, of course ). Actually had someone comment at a show to me that my door tops appeared a better fit to my truck cab than most and it was good to see I'd put the time into aligning all the door hinges, bulkhead, body and stuff. I didn't tell him the truth that it was just luck that that was just where I'd happen to weld the tubes on by chance and I had't even considered panel fit when I was doing it. Suppose it would have been easier to buy new doors...............

Is it only me to have struggles to get door tops off? I put the new ones on with some grease.

I had trouble with both the nuts rusting and then when I put some pressure on the tops came unwelded.
Fortunately the nuts are accessible and I used a small grinding disc on my Dremel to cut through them. Once the nuts were off the rest was easy.

Fit Ally doortops like my nice Military ones. No rust problems then..

Its an irritating time consuming job but certainly not difficult.

Apparently the rubber runners from the series 3 club are very good. Easier to fit and wont rust and then make your door tops rust.