Do I scrap it or keep it

NO it aint ! Mat you just have to set your stall out !
Wot tackle have you got ??
It's no good being able to weld if you don't have a welder ! and so on !!

Why not get a D1 with a rotten body but a good chassis and fit the D2 body on the D1 chassis and keep the D1 reg? The engine and gearboxes could easily be transplanted too. Lets face it, chassis wise it is better to have a solid original chassis than a "POTENTIALLY" badly repaired chassis.

Ok it won't be a V reg but what does it matter? It's a car right? Unless you're willing to spend the £3k on a brand new D2 jobby (which you aren't) then this option gives you the safest chassis and a truck for another ten years at a fraction of the cost of a new D2 chassis.

I've got the lot mate I'm a mobile mechanic got everything I need just never done one b4 that's all

dieseldog69 said:

Why not get a D1 with a rotten body but a good chassis and fit the D2 body on the D1 chassis and keep the D1 reg? The engine and gearboxes could easily be transplanted too. Lets face it, chassis wise it is better to have a solid original chassis than a "POTENTIALLY" badly repaired chassis.

Ok it won't be a V reg but what does it matter? It's a car right? Unless you're willing to spend the £3k on a brand new D2 jobby (which you aren't) then this option gives you the safest chassis and a truck for another ten years at a fraction of the cost of a new D2 chassis.

Click to expand...

I never even new my body would go on a d1 are d1 and d2 chassis the same

Howdy doo!!

This might seam a bit extreme.. but I've done it and it worked... if you can't get in to a particular place to weld... cut the feking floor out above it .... so you can get to it... remove the seats... cut as much as you can.. you have nothing to loose... welding the floor in is easier than pulling a body off!! If it's in the way. Cut it out... and one bit of advice. Never patch over a hole.. cut every mm of rot and more out.. and neatly add a patch in!!! Grind flush. Drill a hole in your new patch on fill with waxoil.. I apologise if I havnt read every single post and might be repeating what's already been said.. but I'm busy watching porn and getting drunk so can only concentrate on a few things at once ..
Regards
Weldy

Matthew hebberts said:

I never even new my body would go on a d1 are d1 and d2 chassis the same

Click to expand...

Not an exacting fit but they can be made to go together.

@Co-Pang-Yang might be able to offer more advice, I believe he knows a man who did just this job.

dieseldog69 said:

Why not get a D1 with a rotten body but a good chassis and fit the D2 body on the D1 chassis and keep the D1 reg? The engine and gearboxes could easily be transplanted too. Lets face it, chassis wise it is better to have a solid original chassis than a "POTENTIALLY" badly repaired chassis.

Ok it won't be a V reg but what does it matter? It's a car right? Unless you're willing to spend the £3k on a brand new D2 jobby (which you aren't) then this option gives you the safest chassis and a truck for another ten years at a fraction of the cost of a new D2 chassis.

Click to expand...

Ive got a good chassis off a D1 free if anyone wants it.. rather you than me though!! You will end up doing a full restoration and next thing you know.. it's been sitting on the drive for 5 years and your getting divorced... the only good thing about it was. I was getting divorced

Weldy said:

Howdy doo!!

This might seam a bit extreme.. but I've done it and it worked... if you can't get in to a particular place to weld... cut the feking floor out above it .... so you can get to it... remove the seats... cut as much as you can.. you have nothing to loose... welding the floor in is easier than pulling a body off!! If it's in the way. Cut it out... and one bit of advice. Never patch over a hole.. cut every mm of rot and more out.. and neatly add a patch in!!! Grind flush. Drill a hole in your new patch on fill with waxoil.. I apologise if I havnt read every single post and might be repeating what's already been said.. but I'm busy watching porn and getting drunk so can only concentrate on a few things at once ..
Regards
Weldy

Click to expand...

Thanks dude really appreciate it .

Matthew hebberts said:

Thanks dude really appreciate it .

Click to expand...

No worries bud!!! Glad I can be of help!!! Body isn't structural only around the mounting points.. so you can be as rough as you like with that... one word of wisdom... check what's underneath before you cut... I get grinder happy sometimes.. fooling myself that it's a peice of cake... then you spend the next 5 hours rerouting brake pipes when you did t have too!!!

Matthew hebberts said:

I was going to go for half one but I don't have a jig lol that link on eBay don't bring nothing up mate

Click to expand...

I'm crap with those eBay links, think it's cuz I copy the link from the app

Matthew hebberts said:

I've got the lot mate I'm a mobile mechanic got everything I need just never done one b4 that's all

Click to expand...

So wot yu wurrrryed about ??

Matthew hebberts said:

I'd Defo fit new chassi but cheapest I've seen 4k galvo one just to much money .

Click to expand...

Mulcaster1 said:

I think they can start a little cheaper than that - £3k seems the average, the thing is then your sorted as when you do the swap you will end up doing many other things that are needed - but then its hassle free-ish

Click to expand...

This lot : https://www.shielderchassis.com/ do the Disco 2 chassis at their Stratford upon Avon plant:
"Hello

We are taking orders now for new discovery 2 Chassis
The chassis will be available for collection only
Ex yard at Stratford upon Avon
They will be £1950
4 weeks turnaround at present "

1988smithy said:

Is a half chassis not an option? Sure I've seen those on the web

Click to expand...

How the hell do you keep a half-chassis true? By the time you buy/build a jig, you would be cheaper with the full chassis.

Beneagles said:

How the hell do you keep a half-chassis true? By the time you buy/build a jig, you would be cheaper with the full chassis.

Click to expand...

Not my area of expertise, just saw them for sale *shrug* with a jig then

Beneagles said:

This lot : https://www.shielderchassis.com/ do the Disco 2 chassis at their Stratford upon Avon plant:
"Hello

We are taking orders now for new discovery 2 Chassis
The chassis will be available for collection only
Ex yard at Stratford upon Avon
They will be £1950
4 weeks turnaround at present "







How the hell do you keep a half-chassis true? By the time you buy/build a jig, you would be cheaper with the full chassis.

Click to expand...

Are they good quality and everything drilled etc

Matthew hebberts said:

If I could get a second hand one in would fit that .but I think that's gonna be impossible to find .but if I was to take body of is there any harm in plateing it proper tho I can weld good .

Click to expand...

as if by magic.... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/253275724667 (nowt to do with me by the way). If I had the space I'd have that, sort the rot out and then send it off for an acid pickling and a galvanised dip...

Alternatively I can recommend a bloke who welded a new rear 1/2 chassis (it's a 1/3 chassis really) onto mine. Ok he's in Devon, but he's near a mainline train station. And more importantly the work seems good and the price was fair.

Balbas said:

as if by magic.... https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/253275724667 (nowt to do with me by the way). If I had the space I'd have that, sort the rot out and then send it off for an acid pickling and a galvanised dip...

Alternatively I can recommend a bloke who welded a new rear 1/2 chassis (it's a 1/3 chassis really) onto mine. Ok he's in Devon, but he's near a mainline train station. And more importantly the work seems good and the price was fair.

Click to expand...

Problem with that is - it's a used chassis. it already has a number so you need to get the v5 with it, and build your vehicle as that one.
Also, if it's that rusty on the outside it will be five times worse inside.
I saw a d2 chassis last year in a yard where somebody had just rebuilt a d2. The state of that chassis truly shocked me. It had only run out of mot a few weeks prior and was rotten from the middle all the way back.
My mate does a fair bit of commercial welding and does cars at home. He did a d2 a couple of years back that he could put his arm through before he even started.
I've been on the lookout for a d2 just like the ops for some time. Mint condition, low mileage, top spec, knackered chassis.
O.p: If you're going to keep it 10 years it'll be worth the money rebuilding.
Not convinced? Go and Buy a brand new car, come back in 10 years and tell us what it's worth.

Matthew hebberts said:

Are they good quality and everything drilled etc

Click to expand...

No idea....order going in at the end of this month, so rebuild sometime in March. Thread will be forthcoming....

Beneagles said:

No idea....order going in at the end of this month, so rebuild sometime in March. Thread will be forthcoming....

Click to expand...

Fingers crossed for you, prices are good

I have changed a chassis on my old d2, td5,used a tractor and lifted the body over the engine and placed it on straw bales... Not for the faint hearted and you will be wanting to replace other bit and bobs while your there which cost a fortune too... behind the sound deadening Under the windscreen between the engine and dash, i found rust there on mine, not nice looking rust either... so would suggest given the old girl a good looking at everywhere to decide for yourself if it’s worth it or not

Balbas said:

Alternatively I can recommend a bloke who welded a new rear 1/2 chassis (it's a 1/3 chassis really) onto mine. Ok he's in Devon, but he's near a mainline train station. And more importantly the work seems good and the price was fair.

Click to expand...

I'd be interested in recommendations please, so I can start to price it up.
There are plenty of late D2's with good spec that would benefit from replacing the rear half. But I need to know how much it would ACTUALLY cost, rather than the cost of the metal.