Do I need a new accumulator?

Did the test that is in this link: Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes and the pump run for about 25 sec after discharging the system ( so I guest it is OK) but in the 5 minutes wait, it runs again about every 1minute and 20 sec. I notice that, after I change the front breaks, I have to push harder on the pedal to make it stop. Is this an accumulator problem or do I have some air in the system?

Thanks for any help.

Hello mate... can i ask if your abs light is on?? i have the same problem as you..my pump nearly runs every time i press the brake pedel..i changed my accumalator.. but it made no differance... in saying that i didnt bleed the brakes after.. but my gut feeling is that my pump is shagged..

No I don't have any warnings. The light goes out every time I pass the 5 mph. I'll try to bleed the system following the RAVE and post the results. BTW mine is an 2002 4.6 maybe that system is a little bit different in terms of the pump functionality. But the breaks do feel a little bit different, it is been a while so I get use to it but I think it is not the way it is suppose to be.

On my 4.6 '97 the ABS pump will come on with every second press of the brake pedal. I alos noticed that if I give the brake pedal two or three pumps they are significantly better. Don't know what is wrong but for sure something is not right. My first task will be to change the brake fluid as I can see no mention in the service records that it has been done before.

jlsplinter said:

Did the test that is in this link: Range Rover P38/4.0/4.6 Common Problems and Fixes and the pump run for about 25 sec after discharging the system ( so I guest it is OK) but in the 5 minutes wait, it runs again about every 1minute and 20 sec. I notice that, after I change the front breaks, I have to push harder on the pedal to make it stop. Is this an accumulator problem or do I have some air in the system?

Thanks for any help.

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New brakes need to settle in. Did you change discs and pads or just pads? If you changed discs and pads no hard braking for 250 miles until things bed in or you may warp the discs. If you just changed pads new flat pads on a worn rutted disc will take time to mould to disc profile. Your brakes will not work as they should until they do. And again heavy or sustained braking may cause hot spots that can warp your discs.

As a general point, do you know when fluid was last changed? Fluid absorbs water over a period; water corrodes the internal components in the system, leading to expensive bills later on, and in extreme cases, when the brakes are used hard (when you most need `em) the water will boil leading to gas bubbles and....disaster.... If necessary, do it by the book. Not just at the four corners but bleeding under the reservoir too. Fully explained in RAVE.

Yes I just replaced the Pads, but it's been a while (+1500 miles I guest) and I did the four tire bleeding. Have to go by the book just to make sure. As for the fluid... I got the car in august last year so I don't know when that happened. I have to wait after I bleed the system completely to see if it is me comparing the breaks to my mustang or the breaks are really feeling weird.

Thank you all for the reply s. I'll let you know.

jlsplinter said:

Yes I just replaced the Pads, but it's been a while (+1500 miles I guest) and I did the four tire bleeding. Have to go by the book just to make sure. As for the fluid... I got the car in august last year so I don't know when that happened. I have to wait after I bleed the system completely to see if it is me comparing the breaks to my mustang or the breaks are really feeling weird.

Thank you all for the reply s. I'll let you know.

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Don't know why you need to bleed the brakes when doing a pad change. There is no need to disconnect any brake pipes. Even if brakes contained pure water you should still get a firm pedal if they are bled properly. They would boil a bit quickly though. Water in the brake fluid is a very much over stated problem unless you drive like Lewis Hamilton anyway. You have possibly not bled the brakes properly and that is what your problem is. If you can pump brakes up you surely have air in there somewhere.

well it was after a month and a half that I decided ti bleed the system. That's why I decided to post here, it does not make any sense to me aether but why not give it a try?

jlsplinter said:

well it was after a month and a half that I decided ti bleed the system. That's why I decided to post here, it does not make any sense to me aether but why not give it a try?

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OK, but even if you have water in the system it would only be a noticable problem with the brakes very hot. Water boils at less than half the boiling point of the fluid, so when the brakes get hot it forms gas pockets until it cools down. Bleed the brakes by all means or even change the fluid completely. You will always get a better pedal on a quick second pump of the brakes, because the pads are in contact with the discs and there is less movement to take up to engage them. That is normal. There are lots of reasons for the brakes to go off or as you say you maybe comparing them to a different system and they fall short of that system. The only thing i can say is that the brakes on my Range Rover are superb and to be honest they could do with new front discs. It is impossible to diagnose on here without hands on vehicle. I suggest if you still think your brakes are less good than they should be, get someone who knows his stuff to look at them for you.

Changing the fuid is relatively cheap and assuming there`s two people, not difficult or time consuming. It`s one thing eliminated from the list of possible problems. I agree in normal use water in the fluid isn`t a problem , but surely that`s exactly why it IS a problem: it only becomes apparent when you really need your brakes and they`re not acting as they should.

gtland said:

Changing the fuid is relatively cheap and assuming there`s two people, not difficult or time consuming. It`s one thing eliminated from the list of possible problems. I agree in normal use water in the fluid isn`t a problem , but surely that`s exactly why it IS a problem: it only becomes apparent when you really need your brakes and they`re not acting as they should.

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Yes i agree, but water in the fluid does not to me at least, seem to be the source of this posters problem. It maybe on a hot summers day at the bottom of Porlock hill but not in normal driving. And it would certainly not cause a lack of brake efficency when the system is cold.

OK, I can agree with you that in normal low level use, a bit of water is not a major problem, but to use your example; coming to the bottom of Porlock Hill with 4 passengers and a full fortnights worth of holiday luggage is not the time to decide a fluid change might be necessary. It does seem from post that a bleed has been done, but only at the corners, not "by the book", so even if the fluid is ok a proper bleed would be a good idea surely? And it is one piece taken from the list of "possibles". Maybe just do a "pump-test" to see if a bleed is necessary? If pedal rises or firms up when pumped, then bleed; if pumping makes no difference then prob not neessary?

My brakes were rubbish until I bled from the main brake system there are 3 bleed nips ...1 for front 1 for rear & 1 for the Master Cyl itself...


See page 817 on RAVE

Yes, 3 bleed screws on master, front and rear booster carcuits, plus the 4 calipers. As already said, this is one to do by the book.

gtland said:

OK, I can agree with you that in normal low level use, a bit of water is not a major problem, but to use your example; coming to the bottom of Porlock Hill with 4 passengers and a full fortnights worth of holiday luggage is not the time to decide a fluid change might be necessary. It does seem from post that a bleed has been done, but only at the corners, not "by the book", so even if the fluid is ok a proper bleed would be a good idea surely? And it is one piece taken from the list of "possibles". Maybe just do a "pump-test" to see if a bleed is necessary? If pedal rises or firms up when pumped, then bleed; if pumping makes no difference then prob not neessary?

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Yep agree with that. Bleeding and changing fluid will take away some possibles leaving probables behind. If it cures the problem jobs a goodun.

Thank you all. Will do that as soon as possible.