disco2 thor v8 fuel check

hi having just rebuilt the v8 how do i check to make sure that i am getting fuel to the engine.
i know the pump is a pressure type ,but dont want to crank it if no fuel present.
is there some basic checks, i know i have a spark and compression just want to make sure fuel is there.
just the rad to fit and then thats it i hope

thanks for your help

You can't reach the Schrader valve on the injection manifold without some difficulty, but unless you had problems before the rebuild, it should be OK.

Ours started after two short goes, fired up with a huge clatter of tappets as the lifters were partly empty and it took a while for the oil pressure to come up.

We ran it in 5-second bursts until we had the oil light extinguished, seemed like ages!

Peter

hi thanks for the info getting ready to fire up now.
the only thing when the head casket blow it just stopped dead and came to a slow halt.
when i tried to fire it before the rebuild i could not smell any petrol.
i am just worried that somthing else as gone like a fuse.
just me getting nervous prioe to trying it.

You'll have to fill the two manifolds and pipes before anything builds up pressure, and the injectors will have to open and shut a few times before the built-up air can all be cleared.

Ours went on the second try, probably 8 turns altogether, in two goes.

Peter

do they have a fuel rail? there should be a valve on there, if not or you can find it, if they have an in tank pump, take the petrol pipe off in the engine bay and put it in a tub, put ignition on and it should pump petrol through. that will ensure petrol is up to the fuel rail at least!

It's a V8, Gav!

There is a valve as I mentioned, but it's awful to get to, even more so if you have gas manifolds and valves fitted.

The coil packs get in the way as well

There is a snap connector in the fuel pipe down by the drivers side of the gearbox, but depending on the installation, it may or not be accessible.

Once opened, if you open it, keep it clean as there are no further filters twixt that point and the injectors themselves.

Peter

i'd just keep turning it over to be honest!! dont think it'll do any damage will it?

gavbriggs said:

i'd just keep turning it over to be honest!! dont think it'll do any damage will it?

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We had a brand new short motor, and the state of lube of the main bearings etc was totally unknown as it had been sitting around in a crate since 2004.

We did pre-fill the oil filter and greased the oil pump rotor parts, but even then, with an overfilled sump as well, it took a while for the oil light to go out.

The other problem is that you can't just turn it over without starting unless all the ignition is off, and then if the fuel side is running you'll get fuel vapour all through the manifolds and exhaust, ready to go pop when you do start up.

We were being cautious, but better that than pick up a bearing shell that was dry.

Peter

just remove plugs and turn crank by hand??? that should get oil to most moving parts, or pre lube with that greasy stuff, cant remember its name, hylomar???

i stripped mine, and then poured oil on cam and into engine, oiled all over the rockers and then topped up as normal, ran and filled tappets within a few seconds!

Yes, we could have taken the plugs and cranked over, but is was pretty tight!

Hylomar is a gasket compound, wouldn't do a lot of good

Pre-filling the oil filter is one of the most important things, it soaks up a lot of oil, virtually equal to its internal volume.

Peter

might have been molyslip, feck knows. obviously fill filter and oil the o ring.

gavbriggs said:

might have been molyslip, feck knows. obviously fill filter and oil the o ring.

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Yep, one of the Rocol anti-scuff compounds you are probably thinking about, that is good stuff.

Peter