Disco rear floor

R

Richard

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #1

As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on our
95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling up.
Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I have
heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
Thanks
Richard

 

D

Disco Duck

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #2

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on our
> 95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
> soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling up.
> Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I have
> heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
> Thanks
> Richard
>
>
>

Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my '96.
Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=374

This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then
eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The
original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I used
to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing that
started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!

I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not having
any luck doing a web search for it.


Sincerely
Hud

 

P

Pantelis Giamarellos

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #3

The most probable reason for the soaked sound insulating material must be
the alpine windows or the C to D post side windows or rather their
weatherstrips.
Try adding some black silicon around the weatherstrip (actually between the
weathestrip and the vehicle's bodyshell) and this most probably will cure
the water ingress problem that your car most probably suffers from.

As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you have
already received your answer.
The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot galvanizig
bath)

Take care
Pantelis (who lives 7 meters away from the sea and galvanizes everything
that can be galvanized)

"Disco Duck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote
> (in article <[email protected]>):
>
> > As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on
our
> > 95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
> > soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling
up.
> > Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I have
> > heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
> > Thanks
> > Richard
> >
> >
> >
>
> Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my '96.
> Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.
>
> http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=374
>
> This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then
> eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The
> original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I
used
> to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing
that
> started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!
>
> I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not
having
> any luck doing a web search for it.
>
>
> Sincerely
> Hud
>

 

R

Richard

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #4

wife sat inside earlier with the carpet out and I hosed the car all over the
outside and also underneath. The water isnt coming through any glass seals
but though some little plastic bungs in the floor. Once I have sorted the
rust I will seal them with either silicone or seam sealer.
Richard


"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The most probable reason for the soaked sound insulating material must be
> the alpine windows or the C to D post side windows or rather their
> weatherstrips.
> Try adding some black silicon around the weatherstrip (actually between
the
> weathestrip and the vehicle's bodyshell) and this most probably will cure
> the water ingress problem that your car most probably suffers from.
>
> As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
have
> already received your answer.
> The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
> know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
galvanizig
> bath)
>
> Take care
> Pantelis (who lives 7 meters away from the sea and galvanizes everything
> that can be galvanized)
>
> "Disco Duck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote
> > (in article <[email protected]>):
> >
> > > As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on
> our
> > > 95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
> > > soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling
> up.
> > > Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I
have
> > > heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
> > > Thanks
> > > Richard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my
'96.
> > Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.
> >
> > http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=374
> >
> > This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then
> > eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The
> > original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I
> used
> > to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing
> that
> > started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!
> >
> > I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not
> having
> > any luck doing a web search for it.
> >
> >
> > Sincerely
> > Hud
> >
>
>

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #5

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you have
>already received your answer.
>The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
>know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot galvanizig
>bath)

you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
welding the sod in.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.

 

P

Pantelis Giamarellos

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #6

Excellent idea about electroplating

As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell and
stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of the
best solutions if rusting is a problem.
I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how well
modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is required
in the future.

Take care
Pantelis

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
have
> >already received your answer.
> >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
> >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
galvanizig
> >bath)
>
> you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
> really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> welding the sod in.
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.

 

R

Richard

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #7

But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat them
in situ?
Thanks
Richard



"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Excellent idea about electroplating
>
> As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell
and
> stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of
the
> best solutions if rusting is a problem.
> I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how well
> modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
> But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is required
> in the future.
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> > <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> >
> > >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
> have
> > >already received your answer.
> > >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I
don't
> > >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
> galvanizig
> > >bath)
> >
> > you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
> > really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> > welding the sod in.
> >
> > --
> > Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> > "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> > Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.
>
>

 

P

Pantelis Giamarellos

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #8

Richard Hi,

I guess treating it with one of the widely available rust neutralizers and
prohibitors will be a good thing to do.

Most of them say that they do work even without removing the existing rust
but I am sure doing so (removing them) will have much better results.

Take care
Pantelis

"Richard" <richardsemail [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat
them
> in situ?
> Thanks
> Richard
>
>
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Excellent idea about electroplating
> >
> > As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell
> and
> > stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of
> the
> > best solutions if rusting is a problem.
> > I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how
well
> > modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
> > But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is
required
> > in the future.
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> > "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> > > <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> > >
> > > >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe
you
> > have
> > > >already received your answer.
> > > >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I
> don't
> > > >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
> > galvanizig
> > > >bath)
> > >
> > > you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd
only
> > > really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> > > welding the sod in.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> > > "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> > > Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.
> >
> >
>
>

 

R

rads

Guest

• Aug 19, 2004

• #9

On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 17:29:26 GMT, "Richard" <richardsemail
[email protected]> wrote:

>But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat them
>in situ?
>Thanks
>Richard
>
>
Spotted an Ad on the box yesterday for some Ronseal metal paint that
they "guarantee" will prevent rust breakthrough for 6 years.

Possibly all sorts of compatability problems with existing paints etc,
but still, 6 years!

David

 

A

Andrew Renshaw

Guest

• Aug 20, 2004

• #10

Well I put hammerite on bare metal and it has rusted through after two years
of being dunked in sea water on a weekly basis. Not too bad i guess.

A

"rads" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 17:29:26 GMT, "Richard" <richardsemail
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>>But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat
>>them
>>in situ?
>>Thanks
>>Richard
>>
>>
> Spotted an Ad on the box yesterday for some Ronseal metal paint that
> they "guarantee" will prevent rust breakthrough for 6 years.
>
> Possibly all sorts of compatability problems with existing paints etc,
> but still, 6 years!
>
> David

 

D

Disco Duck

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #11

On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote
(in article <[email protected]>):

> As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on our
> 95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
> soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling up.
> Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I have
> heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
> Thanks
> Richard
>
>
>

Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my '96.
Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=374

This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then
eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The
original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I used
to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing that
started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!

I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not having
any luck doing a web search for it.


Sincerely
Hud

 

R

Richard

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #12

wife sat inside earlier with the carpet out and I hosed the car all over the
outside and also underneath. The water isnt coming through any glass seals
but though some little plastic bungs in the floor. Once I have sorted the
rust I will seal them with either silicone or seam sealer.
Richard


"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> The most probable reason for the soaked sound insulating material must be
> the alpine windows or the C to D post side windows or rather their
> weatherstrips.
> Try adding some black silicon around the weatherstrip (actually between
the
> weathestrip and the vehicle's bodyshell) and this most probably will cure
> the water ingress problem that your car most probably suffers from.
>
> As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
have
> already received your answer.
> The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
> know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
galvanizig
> bath)
>
> Take care
> Pantelis (who lives 7 meters away from the sea and galvanizes everything
> that can be galvanized)
>
> "Disco Duck" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On Tue, 17 Aug 2004 06:12:15 -0500, Richard wrote
> > (in article <[email protected]>):
> >
> > > As its been mentioned before I thought I would check the rear floor on
> our
> > > 95 Discovery for rust. Lifted the carpet and found the sound deadening
> > > soaked on the passenger side. Also there are a few rust spots bubbling
> up.
> > > Whats the best thing to treat them with before they get too bad? I
have
> > > heard POR15 from Frost is good, any ideas?
> > > Thanks
> > > Richard
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > Let me guess, and the carpet was completely dry. Ran into this on my
'96.
> > Eastwood company in the US sells some good stuff in different colors.
> >
> > http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemType=CATEGORY&itemID=374
> >
> > This product came from the UK under a different name years ago and then
> > eastwood put their own name on it. And now it is made in the US. The
> > original advertisements stated it was used on the north sea oil rigs. I
> used
> > to go to the beach a lot and it worked real well on stopping any thing
> that
> > started on the exterior. And the stuff under the sound deadening!
> >
> > I want to say the name was correles or something similar but I am not
> having
> > any luck doing a web search for it.
> >
> >
> > Sincerely
> > Hud
> >
>
>

 

A

Austin Shackles

Guest

• Aug 17, 2004

• #13

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
<[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:

>As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you have
>already received your answer.
>The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
>know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot galvanizig
>bath)

you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
welding the sod in.

--
Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
"Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.

 

P

Pantelis Giamarellos

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #14

Excellent idea about electroplating

As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell and
stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of the
best solutions if rusting is a problem.
I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how well
modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is required
in the future.

Take care
Pantelis

"Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
>
> >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
have
> >already received your answer.
> >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I don't
> >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
galvanizig
> >bath)
>
> you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
> really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> welding the sod in.
>
> --
> Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.

 

R

rads

Guest

• Aug 19, 2004

• #15

On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 17:29:26 GMT, "Richard" <richardsemail
[email protected]> wrote:

>But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat them
>in situ?
>Thanks
>Richard
>
>
Spotted an Ad on the box yesterday for some Ronseal metal paint that
they "guarantee" will prevent rust breakthrough for 6 years.

Possibly all sorts of compatability problems with existing paints etc,
but still, 6 years!

David

 

R

Richard

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #16

But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat them
in situ?
Thanks
Richard



"Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Excellent idea about electroplating
>
> As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell
and
> stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of
the
> best solutions if rusting is a problem.
> I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how well
> modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
> But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is required
> in the future.
>
> Take care
> Pantelis
>
> "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> > <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> >
> > >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe you
> have
> > >already received your answer.
> > >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I
don't
> > >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
> galvanizig
> > >bath)
> >
> > you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd only
> > really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> > welding the sod in.
> >
> > --
> > Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> > "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> > Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.
>
>

 

P

Pantelis Giamarellos

Guest

• Aug 18, 2004

• #17

Richard Hi,

I guess treating it with one of the widely available rust neutralizers and
prohibitors will be a good thing to do.

Most of them say that they do work even without removing the existing rust
but I am sure doing so (removing them) will have much better results.

Take care
Pantelis

"Richard" <richardsemail [email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat
them
> in situ?
> Thanks
> Richard
>
>
>
> "Pantelis Giamarellos" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
> > Excellent idea about electroplating
> >
> > As for putting it back in place I am sure flat rivnuts on the bodyshell
> and
> > stainless steel bolts on the electroplated rear floor panel will one of
> the
> > best solutions if rusting is a problem.
> > I would even propose epoxy glue for that. It is really impressive how
well
> > modern dual compound epoxy glues perform.
> > But rivnuts and bolts will be easier to remove just in case it is
required
> > in the future.
> >
> > Take care
> > Pantelis
> >
> > "Austin Shackles" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> > news:[email protected]...
> > > On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 17:17:36 +0300, "Pantelis Giamarellos"
> > > <[email protected]> enlightened us thusly:
> > >
> > > >As for neutralizing the rust problem that already exists I believe
you
> > have
> > > >already received your answer.
> > > >The best solution would be to galvanize the whole floor panel but I
> don't
> > > >know whether this is possible (it may warp when dipped in the hot
> > galvanizig
> > > >bath)
> > >
> > > you might get better results having it zinc electroplated, but it'd
only
> > > really be worth doing a new one and even then you'd spoil the galv by
> > > welding the sod in.
> > >
> > > --
> > > Austin Shackles. www.ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk my opinions are just that
> > > "Would to God that we might spend a single day really well!"
> > > Thomas À Kempis (1380 - 1471) Imitation of Christ, I.xxiii.
> >
> >
>
>

 

A

Andrew Renshaw

Guest

• Aug 20, 2004

• #18

Well I put hammerite on bare metal and it has rusted through after two years
of being dunked in sea water on a weekly basis. Not too bad i guess.

A

"rads" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Wed, 18 Aug 2004 17:29:26 GMT, "Richard" <richardsemail
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>>But its still in place with only a few rust spots. Whats best to treat
>>them
>>in situ?
>>Thanks
>>Richard
>>
>>
> Spotted an Ad on the box yesterday for some Ronseal metal paint that
> they "guarantee" will prevent rust breakthrough for 6 years.
>
> Possibly all sorts of compatability problems with existing paints etc,
> but still, 6 years!
>
> David