Disco air suspension

Hi folks, i'm in need of help with my '53 reg td5 disco 2 air suspension please. I've read loads of threads but none quite fit.
Both sides go up and down on demand from the controls but the drivers side is always 30-40 mm lower than the near side. Also some times when i leave the vehicle for a few minutes the air all goes and it's right down on the axles, but pumps up again when i set off. However i've just been away and left the disco for a week and on return the vehicle has not dropped at all as i would expect from an air leak. The compressor seams to work ok. Could the problem be electronic or is it more likely to be mechanical. I may change the air springs as a matter of course as i have read they have a limited life but there must be something else. Ride hieght sensors, SLABS, valve block ? Please help, Steve.

i have a simimlar problem. (intermittent) my suspension drops slowly when driving. then the pump turns on but only for 5 seconds or so then shuts off. if i leave the truck off for a while then it will function normaly for a few days or so.

i thought maybe the air pump is worn out and overheats as a result of running to long.
i have ordered a new pump. i did how ever remove the old pump and completely dissasembled it. i see nothing wrong with the pump, valves, air lines, filters or anything.
some help on this problem would be appreciated. thanks all.
another note. the truck will stay at ride hight if parked in the drive for a week. but there has been once when i came outside and it was sitting on the ground. mind blowing as i cannot find a leak.

To keep you all up to date i have taken the wheels off and sqirted the air springs with soapy water. At first nothing but i left them for ten minutes and on return a tiny leak was spotted . As the bag went very slowly down the position of the hole moved round to the curved bit at the bottom and then air poured out dropping both sides of the car. So new bags it is. However the funny thing is the side with the leak is the side which always sits higher. I thought the leaky one would be lowest but not so. Maybe i have another problem as well but i'm going to see what happens when the new bags are here and fitted.
I have undone the bolt holding the link arm of the leveling sensor to the radius arm and moved it up and down . Both sides seem to work bringing the compressor on or letting air out. Could they need callibrating and is this a diy job ?

i found the problem. the driver side air bag leaks at a lower high then ride hight. i disonnected the level sensor and sprayed the air bags with soap then move the ride hight up and down by manualy moving the level sensors. when the ride hight is lower the air bag leaks as the "hole" makes the "bend".

you cannot calibrate the suspension yourself. well not officially anyway!

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/disco-ii-air-suspension-definitive-guide-61211.html

change the bags in pairs... easy and quick to do.

Just to echo that, this is the easiest job to do at home, im no mechanic and took longer to get the alloy wheel released off the hub than it took to change the 2 bags.

My problem now is Im sure the drivers side sits a tad lower than the other side, I can live with it though.

So is there any way to unofficially callibrate or equalise the leveling sensors ?
I know some people can live with one side being lower than the other but i just gotta get it right. I'll even consider getting a nanocom if that helps as i do most of the work on the car myself it will probably be usefull in the future. Help if you can, thanks, Steve.

4wd said:

So is there any way to unofficially callibrate or equalise the leveling sensors ?
I know some people can live with one side being lower than the other but i just gotta get it right. I'll even consider getting a nanocom if that helps as i do most of the work on the car myself it will probably be usefull in the future. Help if you can, thanks, Steve.

Click to expand...

the sensors work on a hall effect principle, basically a rotating magnet inside a coil,

you could take off the sensor, cut the metal bar in half with a hacksaw and thread the ends of the bar, then screw them into a tapped rod with a couple of locking nuts... to make a bottle adjuster. or you could enlarge the holes where they bolt to the chassis and rotate the sensor about it's axis. you'd only need to do it on the one side and measure from the axle hub to the top of the wheel arch to get it level.

I havent done either, but have thought about doing it, as LR admit that even their calibration procedure is inaccurate.

Just had my 2 Airbags replaced on the TD5.
Cured the leaning and softness.

Going in Monday to have the 4 knackered track rod ends done,the car has a mind of it's own on uneven roads,over bumps at low speed it feels like someone else grabs hold of the wheel and shakes the wheel and rattles the front end.
Also a leaking steering box,the arm on the box is also loose.
New box £500 ish.
The place i,m taking it say they will attempt to reseat the seal and put some stopleak in to see if it works.
Worth a try for 20 quid.

Considering the options i went for enlarging the hole . Only needed about 3mm filing out on the side of the hole and rotating the sensor body to raise the height by nearly 30mm from floor to wheel arch. Used a chain saw file. Brilliant. Thanks for all your help, Steve.