Disco 2 2001 TD5 crank no start

Hi, so I got stranded by an immobiliser fault last week. Sorted it today by replacing the rf unit near the sunroof.

Now she will crank but no start. I'm a novice with these more electronic engines. Does anyone have any advice on where to start?!

PS I should have said I unplugged the ecu and there was quite a bit of oil contamination in the red plug. No obvious damage to any of the loom emerging from it.

It has just occurred to me that the battery began to go flat with the cranking so I disconnected it to put it on a charge. Was that a blunder? Does that mess with the ECU computer? Does it need reprogrammed after you do that? Next two jobs I plan to do are are to listen for the fuel pump priming at the rear when ignition on, and also see if I get any revs when cranking (rule out crank position sensor?). Any advice appreciated!

VictorVictor said:

It has just occurred to me that the battery began to go flat with the cranking so I disconnected it to put it on a charge. Was that a blunder?

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No that won't cause any issues and is the correct thing to do when recharging the battery.

Thanks. In a way I'm disappointed - would have been a convenient easy answer!

VictorVictor said:

It has just occurred to me that the battery began to go flat with the cranking so I disconnected it to put it on a charge. Was that a blunder? Does that mess with the ECU computer? Does it need reprogrammed after you do that? Next two jobs I plan to do are are to listen for the fuel pump priming at the rear when ignition on, and also see if I get any revs when cranking (rule out crank position sensor?). Any advice appreciated!

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Not really although you are supposed to wait a while after switching off the ignition and again to do the same thing once you've reconnected.
Do make sure the connection to the terminals is good as the blessed things were designed at the Ministry of Cr@p Design.
I undo the nut/bolt thing fully bang them right down onto the terminal with a hammer and socket, then do them up.
Again as I've said lots of times, I don't believe in coincidence. It is rare that a totally not connected component should fail at the same time as another component is playing up.
You just need fuel, compression and air to make it go!
Fuel obviously being the hardest part of it on a modern engine.
Best of luck.

Yes indeed! Easy when you can crack the top of a diesel injector nut in an older engine and watch it leak out. Harder when it's all wires. I've got one of the nanocoms on order. seems they are essential for these engines. The things you learn!

VictorVictor said:

Yes indeed! Easy when you can crack the top of a diesel injector nut in an older engine and watch it leak out. Harder when it's all wires. I've got one of the nanocoms on order. seems they are essential for these engines. The things you learn!

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Like many on here I started back in the early 70s when diesels in cars were unheard of except maybe London taxis.
So it's been a steep learning curve, and continues to be one.
I have a Foxwell which is cheaper than a Nano.
One thing to watch out for with a Nano, it can tell you one of your wheel sensors is up the spout but it may well tell you the wrong one, although the axle will be right.
This happened to me when a garage gave me a diagnosis and I then proceeded to remove a perfectly good hub and replace it with a new one. Another garage then did a reading and told me it was in fact the other hub.
I bought the Foxwell after that!

I'll never go more electronic than my TD5 and if it gets too much, I'll flog it and go back to my 300tdi and my D1 V8. Welding is easier than fecking around with pooters, for me at least, and i am not fond of fixing rust!