disco 1 rear floor-rottern

Well from what I've looked at, the box section sills seems like the most practical and realistic option to do. If you type in box section sills in the search box you'll get a load of useful results. Like I said, it's cheaper, easier and much stronger, as they'll pretty much act as rock sliders and something else to jack up. They'll also last longer as there's fewer bits for mud to wedge in, as long as you cap the ends! Just make sure they're painted well.

cheers jmattley much appreciated,i'll have a look now

atb lee

offroader84 said:

cheers vivnap,your work looks really good are you a pro,the sills look alot harder and fiddly then the rear floor im not looking forward to doing them :faint2:

atb lee

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cheers
im not a pro but i did do a few years and a lot of work in a friends bodyshop repairing writeoffs. from nissan micras, vans, lorries to a £37,000 rolls royce ! i did a hell of a lot of jigging, stripping, cutting, welding, rebuilding and painting.

its better to do it right than it is to bodge it unless its already a shed
but if your going to keep it then the hard way is the best way in my opinion and its very satisfiying to have done the job right and it also shows when you come to sell it.

the sills are hard to do but once you have done one side the other side is easy cos you will be familiar with the best way to work it. once you got the drilling of spot welds with out going through both panels its a doddle

if ya need any advise just ask ill help you where i can

jmattley said:

My plan, since they'll probably need doing sometime is to replace my sills on my D1 with box section so that they stronger, cheaper, act as rock sliders and something jackable and also easier to do than standard sills. Surely thats easier than replacing them with standard right?
I also plan to swap my boot floor (which is pretty horrific!) with a piece of 3mm ally chequer plate. Would that not be easier and longer lasting than the replacement?

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ever seen what ally and steel joined together does ?

the chemical reaction rots the hell out of the ally and dont do the steel no good either.

vizlauk heres the pics of the arches you wanted
this is the ones i did of the drivers side.

cheers vivnap,i think i will def be asking for your advice as soon as i start so beware lol.
thanks alot mate its much appreciated

atb lee

and pass side.

vivnap said:

and pass side.

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thanks for them mate, do you have any of under the arch ? Sean

View attachment 13133

vizlauk said:

thanks for them mate, do you have any of under the arch ? Sean

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not many heres what i can find.

vivnap said:

cheers
im not a pro but i did do a few years and a lot of work in a friends bodyshop repairing writeoffs. from nissan micras, vans, lorries to a £37,000 rolls royce ! i did a hell of a lot of jigging, stripping, cutting, welding, rebuilding and painting.

its better to do it right than it is to bodge it unless its already a shed
but if your going to keep it then the hard way is the best way in my opinion and its very satisfiying to have done the job right and it also shows when you come to sell it.

the sills are hard to do but once you have done one side the other side is easy cos you will be familiar with the best way to work it. once you got the drilling of spot welds with out going through both panels its a doddle

if ya need any advise just ask ill help you where i can

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I see exactly what you mean, and I've always tried to do jobs properly and to the best of my ability, I'm definitely not a bodge a artist!
I just find with the sills that instead of buying separate rock sliders or bashing the standard sills, that it would be both practical and economical to replace them with a perfectly safe, neat and heavy duty alternative.

Or is that just me?

wack some fat RSJ down the side....

:doh: discovery not a ****ing armoured car bob

hello ofroader i just read your first post[been bad fettle over hols] when i rebuilt my rangie i bought a piece of alloy 5bar tread plate cut to my own size for £35 from the local stockists its 4mm thick,i renewed the cross bars with 3/4 square section then sealed round with silicone then pop riveted it in as per origonal no bother.Imust admit when i started it looked like a HUGE job but when you get your head round it ,no bother take it a bit at a time mate---steady away ...dave

Beast o Bodmin said:

wack some fat RSJ down the side....

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sills will take at least a day each side-did mine a while ago but worthwhile doing and now got sliders welded to em aswell
see following post:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f8/failed-mot-need-help-staffordshire-76816-2.html

got alloy boot floor ere for sale.....

Beast o Bodmin said:

got alloy boot floor ere for sale.....

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how much was you looking at for the floor mate?

Beast o Bodmin said:

got alloy boot floor ere for sale.....

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how about giving some of your junk away for free, yaknow like lots of other peeps do on ere ?

For the rear floor look on ebay you can get the crossmembers for £10 each and the size z sections but i can't remember how much and the boot floor is about £56 there

offroader84 said:

how much was you looking at for the floor mate?

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you got PM

thinking of buying a new mig myself. used to have a nice SIP mig around 14yrs ago but it ended up being permanently borrowed by the pikey shed raiding weasels.
is it worth getting a nogas mig or wouldnt you guys use them as wheel chocks?