Disco 1 handbrake adjustment

Neighbour needs to adjust his handbrake but there isn't an adjuster on the
brake like my 90 so where is it or how do you adjust the cable?

--
Regards
Bob
In Runnymede, 17 miles West of London

In message <[email protected]>
"Bob Hobden" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Neighbour needs to adjust his handbrake but there isn't an adjuster on the
> brake like my 90 so where is it or how do you adjust the cable?
>

I I remember right it has a hole in the drum that you line up
with the adjuaster, which you click with a screwdriver through the
hole. However, I could be making that up.....

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

In message <f7c5dd9c4d%[email protected]>, beamendsltd
<[email protected]> writes
>I could be making that up.....


Think you might be Richard



There is a bolt head at the very bottom of the handbrake back plate ( in
a recess) either 17 mm or 19 mm. this is the adjuster.

Good luck
--
Marc Draper

www.mdeng.co.uk

"Marc Draper" wrote

> There is a bolt head at the very bottom of the handbrake back plate ( in a
> recess) either 17 mm or 19 mm. this is the adjuster.
>

Thanks for that, I've also found out that the cable slack is adjusted from
inside the vehicle by removing the handbrake cover and the window switch
plate from the central consul, which allows you to turn the plastic nut
adjuster the cable runs through just below the actual handbrake handle.
Problem solved (until he tries to do it later)

--
Regards
Bob
1974 S111 SWB 2.25 petrol Hardtop (For Sale)
1987 90 2.5 petrol Hardtop

"Bob Hobden" wrote after
>
> "Marc Draper" wrote
>
>> There is a bolt head at the very bottom of the handbrake back plate ( in
>> a recess) either 17 mm or 19 mm. this is the adjuster.
>>
>
> Thanks for that, I've also found out that the cable slack is adjusted from
> inside the vehicle by removing the handbrake cover and the window switch
> plate from the central consul, which allows you to turn the plastic nut
> adjuster the cable runs through just below the actual handbrake handle.
> Problem solved (until he tries to do it later)
>

Why on earth did they make such a simple and necessary job so difficult.
Done now though. Thanks.

--
Regards
Bob
In Runnymede, 17 miles West of London

Adding to this.....

If the adjustment doesn't make the brake operative does that mean the handbrake is in need of new brake shoes?

Harold 4x4 said:

Adding to this.....

If the adjustment doesn't make the brake operative does that mean the handbrake is in need of new brake shoes?

Click to expand...

No, not necessarily.

If the handbrake drum has not been removed and cleqaned out after wading or mud-plugging you will find that the insides are pretty gummed up. This can prevent the shoes from moving in the correct manner and generating sufficient friction.

It is an easy job to remove the entire handbrake assembly, disassemble it, clean and re-grease where applicable and replace it. You should find that everything works well afterwards, and if you do need new shoes it will be apparant with the handbrake assy removed.

Just to give you an idea of how simple it is... my ten year old did it on my disco 1 yesterday.

I would mention only one thing to be careful of... when removing the brake shoes and replacing them make sure that they go nack on the right way round. For some reason they don't work too well if they are arse about face. Mind you, on all but one of the assemblies he has done there has been a pin and spring on each shoe whoch will prevent it being fitted the wrong way round.

Hope this helps.

Thanks - I've already replied on another thread. Easy-peasy, except for removing the prop on mine, it was a bit of a bugger, especially with little to no access.

No need to ever change the shoes IMO - just give the whole system a good de-greasing.

Harold 4x4 said:

Thanks - I've already replied on another thread. Easy-peasy, except for removing the prop on mine, it was a bit of a bugger, especially with little to no access.

No need to ever change the shoes IMO - just give the whole system a good de-greasing.

Click to expand...

What was the problem removing the prop? Just rotate it round by lifting one rear wheel off the floor until the nut you want is easily accessible and drop the vehicle again.

My biggest issue TBH was the fact that the brake drum snagged on the centre exhaust box and my son didn't have the strength (I wasn't joking about his age), to lever it out of the way, so he had to loosen it off and remove the exhaust hanger first!

beamendsltd said:

In message <[email protected]>
"Bob Hobden" <[email protected]> wrote:

> Neighbour needs to adjust his handbrake but there isn't an adjuster on the
> brake like my 90 so where is it or how do you adjust the cable?
>

I I remember right it has a hole in the drum that you line up
with the adjuaster, which you click with a screwdriver through the
hole. However, I could be making that up.....

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

Click to expand...

I think Richard has been working on the Shogun/Pajero handbrakes!

May be like that on a late model I dunno possibly explain it

The prop? Mine was very difficult to push back against the spline end and I'm no wimp, much easier to put back on , but I used a couple of tiny wooden chocks to make it easier to line up exactly.

No need to keep dropping the wheel once you've turned the prop, just put it in gear...

Harold 4x4 said:

The prop? Mine was very difficult to push back against the spline end and I'm no wimp, much easier to put back on , but I used a couple of tiny wooden chocks to make it easier to line up exactly.

No need to keep dropping the wheel once you've turned the prop, just put it in gear...

Click to expand...

Indeed, but again the good thing about using a child to do the work is that there is plenty of room under the car without having to keep the wheel in the air. Lets face it, it is always going to be safer to work with the wheels on the ground if possible.

.....the good thing about getting your child to do the work is it keeps all the dirt, grease and banged knuckles all in one place!

Harold 4x4 said:

.....the good thing about getting your child to do the work is it keeps all the dirt, grease and banged knuckles all in one place!

Click to expand...

AND the wife moans at him instead of me!